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Market Fresh: Cherries

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Cherries are one of those foods that inspire a feeding frenzy on first sightings. When you spot the first cherries in the market, it’s almost an automatic reaction that you’re going to buy a whole bag and wolf them down. Often, though, you’re better off waiting a little bit.

The first varieties that come in, mainly Burlat and Brooks, can be decent in perfect weather, but just a couple of weeks later you’ll start to see Bings, and shortly after that the blushing Royal Anne and Rainier. These are cherries with real zing.

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If it seems you’re seeing more cherries than normal, you’re right. California’s cherry harvest has more than doubled since 1990 and is now second only to Washington state, which usually begins about a month later.

How to choose: Look for cherries with firm, shiny, smooth skins. Usually the darker the red, the better (with the most common varieties, this is a sign of ripeness). Also check the stems; they should be green and flexible. They turn brown and woody in storage.

How to store: Refrigerate cherries in a tightly sealed plastic bag. They’ll last a couple of weeks, at least theoretically (you’ll probably eat them by then).

How to prepare: Pit the cherries and combine them in a skillet with some sugar. Let stand for 30 minutes or so to draw out some of the juices. Add a splash of orange juice and simmer over medium-high heat until the cherries soften and the juice thickens. Stir in a splash of balsamic vinegar. Serve over vanilla ice cream.

--Russ Parsons

Photo credit: Rick Loomis/Los Angeles Times

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