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Taco Tuesday: Potato taco

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Stop me if you’ve heard this one before.

Or actually -- don’t. Because you know that guy who wouldn’t stop talking about Radiohead if you slapped duct tape across his mouth? I’m kind of like that about the potato tacos at El Atacor #11, which are thin tortillas stuffed with gooey mashed potatoes, deep-fried, and served with taqueria guacamole and a lashing of crema.

Is there cumin in the potatoes? I believe there is, a bit, although I could be reading too much into things. After all, I also taste mayonnaise, but I prefer to write that part off to gustatory hallucination, and I suggest that you do too.

The potato tacos, four to an order, are crunchy, oily masses of pure carbohydrate that disintegrate if you don’t manage to inhale them within a minute or two, which I don’t believe is going to be a problem. You can also get them in boxes of 10, which is probably the way to go if you’re planning to run a half-marathon the next day. You see a lot of boxes of 10 at El Atacor. And people don’t tend to share.

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2622 N. Figueroa Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 441-8477.

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-- Jonathan Gold

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