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Latini brings back Taganrog selection pasta

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After a gap of two years when the wheat didn’t grow well, Pasta Latini is once again able to offer its Taganrog selection pasta. More delicate than regular durum wheat pasta, when cooked it smells a little like fresh-baked bread.

Here’s a bit of history: The Italians began importing the wheat from Russia in the 19th century, and the variety is named for the port of Taganrog on the Azov Sea in Russia. What’s the connection? In the 13th century, Taganrog was a colony of the Maritime Republic of Pisa (who knew?).

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Latini, a family-owned pasta company started way back in 1888, reintroduced pasta made from Taganrog wheat in 2000. Like all its pastas, Taganrog pasta is extruded through brass dies -- the better to grab a sauce.

I’m curious and am putting in my order for this heirloom variety pasta as soon as I finish this post.

Latini pasta Taganrog spaghetti and penne available from Gustiamo.com in 500 gram (1.1 pound) packages, $9.50; www.gustiamo.com; 718-860-2949.

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