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Find hidden Thai delights at Krua Siri in Thai Town

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Here’s an early look at what’s coming in this week’s Food section:

A brand-new flaming star of glorious, singing, singeing Isaan Thai cooking has landed smack in the center of Thai Town. But it’s hiding behind a false face. Krua Siri smells right, but the menu seems all wrong. It’s chock-full of such depressingly non-Thai dishes as orange chicken and Vietnamese pho -- the sort of pan-Asian pandering that typically marks an insincere kitchen.But press the waitress for her favorite items and she might start dropping dishes that appear nowhere on the menu. Press her enough and she might casually mention the existence of a ‘Thai menu,’ at which point every food-hunting alarm in your head should start blaring at once. Click here to read more about our find of the week:

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