New York Fashion Week: Coach’s Reed Krakoff’s first clothing collection weighed down by oversize silhouettes

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Coach accessories brand creative director Reed Krakoff got off to a rocky start with his first clothing collection under his own name.

Although it was interesting to see a designer work an oversize silhouette into the season’s classic sportswear trend, the result was bulky and unflattering. A reddish brown, ankle-sweeping shearling coat was so enormous it looked as if it was weighing the model down, as did the patch pockets on a pair of denim shorts and the mink sleeves on an oversize fisherman’s sweater.

It didn’t help that many of Krakoff’s fabrics were heavy too. Which is why the real standout was a sleeker piece, a long slate leather wrap front skirt.

Brand building from the ground up isn’t easy, but it wasn’t clear from this collection what niche exactly Krakoff is looking to fill -- or how he is going to sell an Arctic Circle wardrobe to women who live closer to Columbus Circle.

-- Booth Moore in New York

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