New York Fashion Week: Clowning around with Marc Jacobs
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It was a Boudoir Bazaar at Marc Jacobs on Monday night, an explosion of underwear as outerwear, ruffles and pearls, that signaled an end to fall’s aggressive stance and a return to femininity.
Jacobs was at the height of his powers. It was as if he took a bunch of cultural touchstones and global references--Pierrot the clown, the exotic costumes of Asia, Commes des Garcons and Madonna, who was sitting front row at the show--and put them in a blender, which is his genius.
The result was beautiful, inspiring, an eyeful. A delicate chiffon dress was cut into harlequin-shaped points dripping pearls; a white lattice-cut coat topped a dress of white frills outlined in black, bringing to mind a pen and ink drawing. And all the models wore variations of the flat geta sandal, trimmed in glitter and stones.
A peach and blue plaid play suit was ruched and ruffled and dotted with pearls. Pinstripe blazers and trousers were edged in ruffles, button front shirts cinched with satin bustiers, cardigans trimmed in ruffles worn over sweater knit panties.
It was theatrical all right, down to the white face paint. Not only was Jacobs playing the role of the clown, distracting us for a moment from the industry’s woes, he was also reminding us why we love fashion--because it’s a chance to play dress up.
-- Booth Moore
Pictures: Marc Jacobs’ spring / summer 2010 runway
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