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Milan Fashion Week: Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni misses with quirky chic for spring

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It’s a fine line between quirky chic and ugly duckling, and this season, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni crossed it in the first part of her show, combining blousy tops and shapeless shifts in boudoir peach and blush shades, printed polka dots or checks, with prison stripe black-and-white knit leggings, gray ankle socks and black kitten heel sandals. Not even the playful mismatched print head scarves or flower petal-shaped jewelry could keep the look from being dour.

It was a relief to finally see bright watercolor floral prints come out midway through on easy pants, shift dresses and shirt jackets cinched with striped belts. Flower-pressed tulle also made for an interestingly textured skirt.

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Then finally, the sparkle we were all expecting (which had made the fall collection such a standout) arrived in the finale of delicate dresses and tops embroidered with organza-wrapped jewels.

From the unevenness of the collection, it seemed as if Castiglioni was wanting to move on to something new, but hasn’t quite figured out what that is yet.

--Booth Moore

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