PFW: Giambattista Valli’s simple, yet solid collection

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PARIS -- One thing you can say about Giambattista Valli is he has guts -- to put forth a new, entirely fresh-looking silhouette during a time when almost no one is taking risks.

Smartly, he abandoned the exuberant, couture-like volumes he’s been doing for the last few seasons and focused more on day wear, beginning with a great-looking orange double face wool swing coat worn over black leggings -- a look that had a pleasing simplicity. Valli was also onto the Asian mood that’s turned up in several shows, with his soft bloomer pants and silk tassel belts. Evening wear was subtle but special -- a rust-colored, draped silk gown with peacock feathers embroidered at the hem, for example.

But Valli’s biggest idea was longer-length skirts and dresses, hitting somewhere between the ankle and the calf, with gently pleated waists. They came in checked mohair, double face wool or gold brocade. I could see Rachel Zoe, who was sitting in the front row, wearing the fresh-looking length with high-heeled boots.

Bravo to Valli for trying something new.

-- Booth Moore

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