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 Question: My father and mother live together in a six-bedroom, five-bath house in Northridge. In the last three years, all three of the kids have moved out. My dad's business isn't doing that well, so he is trying to think of ways to earn a living. But he's over 60, so starting a new career isn't really a feasible option.
His current idea, which he is serious about, is to invest $25,000 into converting the maid's room and guest room areas (which are connected to the house via a garden room and contain a bathroom, study, and bedroom) into two rentable units that would cover the monthly mortgage.
I think this is an awful idea. First of all, there is no need for he and my mother to continue living in a pricey L.A. suburb, much less in a house so large. Second, what would chopping up a house in such a manner do to its resale value? He wants to keep the house (largely for sentimental reasons), which is entirely impractical. Odds are he will have to end up selling after he has butchered it into pieces.
Please give me any advice you can. He is set on this idea, and from what I know of real estate (not much), this will not be successful and will only hurt our already dwindling economic standing.
What would you recommend doing? In this type of situation would it be better to downsize and invest the profits from the sale in different properties? Or does his idea have any merit?
I truly would appreciate your feedback. Sincerely, Tamar K.
My take: Realtor David Kean makes good points below about whether extra units are even allowed. It's possible that one guest unit is permitted but not two.
I have a personal perspective. My 84-year-old mother-in-law, Jody, converted a 100-year-old Victorian in Santa Barbara into rental units several years ago. (You can see Jody above on her lawn with her great granddaughter.) She loves being a landlady and having young people, and their dogs, around her. Her goal is to remain active, useful and independent. Having her college-student-age renters around her actually makes that goal more realistic. Your parents might enjoy having renters. It might not be all about the money but about creating a little community right on their own property.
A Realtor's perspective: From Prudential agent David Kean: The first thing to check are local zoning restrictions. The house may not be properly zoned for multiple residences, so check with the city.
The second factor to consider is how long it will take to recoup the cost of the renovations. The $25,000 figure seems too low an estimate for adding two kitchens and another bath. It may take one to two years before your parents start to turn a profit. A lot can change in a year or two. Ultimately, is it worth the cost and stress of a remodel?
The renovation could work out well if done properly. It would be wise to speak to an architect. The units should have the feel of separate guest apartments. Make sure the conversion blends into the architecture of the house.
The apartments should not feel completely disjointed. One unit would be preferable to two. One unit would give the feeling of a separate guest house, while two units might seem out of place in a private home.
They could close the access from the main house and replace a window with a French door, creating a new access point for the rental unit. There are interesting modular kitchenettes on the market. They are easy to install and, more importantly, easy to remove if the home is eventually put up for sale.
On the upside, future buyers may like the apartment or apartments for a home office, a workshop, an apartment for an elderly parent or older child, or purely for rental income.
 Over here at the Robinson/Price-Robinson abode, there has been a standoff concerning the new water heater we need so badly. Ours is likely 20 years old and not very efficient. Our gas bill would go down immensely if we replaced that beast.
But the choices are many. Do we get a new and efficient gas-powered tank model? Or a tankless gas-fired model?
Or, if we are planning to install solar power when the prices of photovoltaic systems are expected to drop by 2010, shouldn't we install either an electric-powered tank model or an electric-powered tankless model? (See a comparison of lifecycle costs.)
Trouble is, with the latter two choices, we need about $1,000 worth of electrical work done to give them the 220 volts of power they require.
I'm the one who wants the electric, tankless, on-demand system. And Bill wants the gas-powered tank system. Thus, a standoff.
But I think we might be getting closer to doing it Bill's way, and that's always so much easier all the way around. Spouses, can you relate?
Part of my thinking about the tankless system is that most of the cool green builders I respect are big, big proponents of the tankless systems. And that means a lot to me.
But I was recently contacted by Wes Harding, a green-leaning builder in Long Beach (Lic. No. 895042) who believes that new, super-efficient tank systems are actually the better way to go.
Wes provided a link to an article about a scientific analysis of all systems, but, he noted: "The only problem I see with the article is efficiency is measured in gas or electricity consumed, not the amount of water used."
Here's a chart from the analysis:
In terms of both water and energy savings, Wes is sold on tank water heaters for these reasons:
1. God forbid, but if we are ever in a major earthquake or disaster, where do we get our water supply from if we have converted to tankless? With a tank system, the water in the tank can be used in an emergency.
2. Water is wasted in a tankless system because it has to be heated through a coil before it reaches the point of use.
3. Tankless systems operate on the volume of water. If you set your faucet to a trickle, the heater won't kick in. This allows for "slugs" or cold spurts between the hot-water delivery as well as more water consumed.
4. A limited number of fixtures can be used at one time.
5. More electrical energy is consumed as the amount of water increases because of the energy it takes to provide water pressure.
A few more links from Wes:
• A local company that manufactures on-demand recirculating water pumps. The products stops wasting water and can be added to any water heater.
• A nonprofit that sells energy-efficient products that are very affordable.
• Green companies in Long Beach.
Got questions for Wes? Post them below.
(Photo: Pacific County, Wash.)
 Question: I have hated my brick fireplace since day one of living in my otherwise-fabulous home. I have considered removing the brick altogether and creating a brand-new one by placing stucco over it with a mantle, or painting the brick white and adding a rich, dark wooden mantle on top. Actually, a Williams-Sonoma home store was my inspiration; it has the same painted white fireplace. It seems to be the most cost-effective. Do you recommend painting a brick fireplace white? How would you do this? What kind of paint? Some say oil, other say latex. Just curious to hear your thoughts. — Brianna
Answer: Brianna, I also like the look of a painted-brick fireplace. In fact, I wish I had brick on my fireplace instead of my big faux lava rocks that aren't so easily transformed with paint or plaster.
I asked the advice of Dan Gallagher of Gallagher's Decorative Painting & Design in Sierra Madre. Dan's a decorative and home painter who has been featured in this blog here, here and here, and in the newspaper's Home section. Check that out here.
Dan says: All your ideas are good and doable. If a painted look is the course of action (either decorative or straight paint), the most important thing is that oil-base primer should be used, at least two coats. It's best that the oil-base primer is a long-drying for maximum strength. Your usage of the fireplace should help to determine the type of paint -- oil-base or water-base -- for the finish. If the fireplace is used a lot, go with an oil-base paint. For low usage, like two or three times a year, go with water-base paint. Mark the can and store it for touch-ups in the future. Remember, removing paint from brick and mortar can be done, but it is extremely expensive.
If you were to go with a stucco or masonry-type finish, you might consider adding a relief design. It will add interest and personalize it to your home and decor.
For more insights, Dan can be reached at his website.
Also, Brianna, check out this absolutely gorgeous transformation of a brick fireplace in Manhattan Beach.
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(Photo: Sunset)
Question: I am looking for a home and garden show in the Malibu area. Are you
aware of annual shows there? -Reeve
Answer: Not to my knowledge. I think Santa Monica would be the closest show of that type.
Here's what I have in my calendar for the rest of the year:
JUNE
8: Rose Bowl Flea Market, Rose Bowl, Pasadena
13-15: Victorville Home & Backyard Show, San Bernardino County Fairgrounds, Victorville
14: California Salvias, class with Bart O'Brien, Theodore Payne Foundation for Wildflowers and Native Plants, Sun Valley, $45, 1 to 3 p.m.
20-22: Pomona Home & Backyard Show, Fairplex L.A. County Fairgrounds, Pomona
27-29: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, L.A. Convention Center, Los Angeles
Daily through June 30: Getty Villa Architecture and Gardens Tour, Malibu, free, reservations required, 11:30 a.m., 1:30 and 3:30 p.m.
JULY
13: Rose Bowl Flea Market, Rose Bowl, Pasadena
AUGUST
1-3: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, L.A. Convention Center, Los Angeles
10: Rose Bowl Flea Market, Rose Bowl, Pasadena
20-24: Southern California Home & Garden, Anaheim Convention Center, Anaheim
22-24: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, Pasadena Conference Center, Pasadena
SEPTEMBER
6-7: Central Coast Fall Home Show, Santa Maria Fairpark, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
5-7: Riverside Home Improvement & Remodeling Show, Riverside Convention Center
12-14: San Diego Fall Home & Garden Show, Del Mar Showgrounds
12-14: Ventura Home & Garden Show, Seaside Park, Ventura County Fairgrounds, Ventura
16-17: Santa Barbara Home & Garden Show, Earl Warren Showgrounds, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
28: 12th annual Autumn Home Tour, Henry T. Oxnard National Historic District, Oxnard
OCTOBER
3-5: Fall Home & Garden Show, Saugus Speedway, Saugus
4: National Solar Tour, various SoCal communities, details upcoming
10-12: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, L.A. Convention Center, Los Angeles
10-12: Pomona Home Improvement & Remodeling Show, Fairplex L.A. County Fairgrounds, Pomona
NOVEMBER
6-8: West Coast Green, Fort Mason Center, San Francisco
DECEMBER
13-14: Victorian Christmas House Tours, Heritage Square, Oxnard
ONGOING
Home Depot weekly in-store clinics
Lowe's Build and Grow clinics for children
(Send SoCal home improvement calendar items to podblog@aol.com.)
 Question: I was recently building a children's playhouse and began to put the walls up. As I did, the neighbor who lives behind me came over and said that we were blocking her view. The view she has is of the back of our house. The playhouse would be approximately 8 to 9 inches above her 9-foot fence. She said she was going to find out if she could stop us from building it. Is this possible from a legal standpoint? Thanks, Marcus
Answer: From Pardon Our Dust's "resident builder" Alon Toker:
It depends on what exactly is being constructed. Is it built to function like a treehouse or a kid's playhouse? Or is it built as a permanent structure that could be used as a spare bedroom or office?
If the former, this is not a building-and-safety, planning or zoning issue and the city is likely to stay out of it. If it's the latter, however, plans and permits would be needed as well as inspections, and if these were not secured, the neighbor might have unwelcome leverage.
The noted 9-foot fence, by the way, might be counter-leverage that works to your advantage, as it too might not be legal. The typical maximum fence height allowed is 6 feet.
To read for yourself what the City of Los Angeles building code says about accessory buildings, pergolas, retaining walls, excavation in cemeteries and more, click here.
Alon Toker is president of Mega Builders in Chatsworth. If you have a building-related question, e-mail it to podblog@aol.com and include "Resident Builder" in the subject line.
(Photo: Playhouses.com)
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At the urging of reader "tarbubble," I asked the designers at Pamela Burton & Company what lawn substitutes they used on their award-winning Malibu landscape (which was featured previously on this blog).
I got a response from Burton associate Stephen Billings. First of all, regarding grasses in lieu of lawn, he recommends referring to the Sunset Western Garden Book for a list of alternatives to turf for lawns.
As for this particular landscape, three of the ornamental grasses we used are:
• Muhlenbergia capillaris
• Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light'
• Nassella tenuissima
And here's more info I dug up:
Muhlenbergia capillaris (left): As summer is winding down and with it your blooming annuals and perennials, Muhlenbergia capillaris (Pink Muhly Grass) is springing up — giant puffballs of cotton-candy pink, so airy you expect a breeze to carry them away. A source of late-season color, this native grass is effortless to grow and tolerant of just about anything Mother Nature throws its way. The grass forms a nice little hedge, edging, or middle-of-the-border ribbon of color from spring through summer, but when the rosy-pink plumes arise on 4-foot stems, it grabs the garden spotlight. Tolerates heat, humidity, poor soil, and even drought. See a white version called White Cloud. (From home Depot)
Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light' (right): A beautiful grass whose white margins on its very narrow leaves give it a creamy-pale green from a distance. Blooms late and doesn't tend to self-sow, although it may do so moderately in moist areas. Grows to 6 feet tall. (From Home and Garden TV)
Nassella tenuissima (left): Also called Mexican feather grass, it is soft and shiny in the spring garden. Nassella tenuissima should be trimmed severely in the later part of the summer as the seed heads start to dry. Once matured the seed is very fruitful and can become something of a pest. The florets are very prone to sticking in socks or the fur of your pets. This is not recommended for gardens near wild areas as the Mexican feather grass can easily escape. Sometimes sold as Stipa tenuissima. (From California Gardens.com)
(Photos: Muhlenbergia capillaris: Home Depot; Miscanthus sinesis: HGTV; Nassella tenuissima: California Gardens)
 A fellow reader sent in this query. Do you have any suggestions?
"I live in Eagle Rock, Calif., and I am looking to replace our knob-and-tube wiring. I have had a number of bids. Some who bid didn't seem trustworthy. With others, I thought: "WOW! Really? That much?"
"I have yet to find anyone who seems trustworthy and affordable. If you know of anyone or any good source to go to, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated."
Thanks, Paxon
(Photo: Wikipedia)
 Question: Hello there Kathy. You seem to be the source on all things remodeled, redecorated and staged, so I am writing to you to ask if you have any information about how to rent a staged home? My cousin read an article recently in the Los Angeles Times about owners of staged homes who want to rent them out to a responsible party for low rent so that the house is lived in while it is on the market. I am very interested in this concept, and would love to find out how to rent a staged home! I am the perfect candidate. :-) Please let me know if you have any information about this! Thank you, Abby
Answer: Abby, thanks for the kind words. That excellent article ran a few weeks ago in the Real Estate section. The article is no longer available online, but I used my connections (don't I sound important?) and requested the article for you from Real Estate Editor Lauren Beale. She came through and I think it has the answers you seek:
Los Angeles Times
Sunday, May 4, 2008
A sweet place to bunk
Home managers can give for-sale properties that important lived-in look.
By Frank Nelson, Special to The Times
Pockets of people across the Southland are living like royalty without it costing them a king's ransom. Take Jim and Laura Fisher, currently basking in about 5,000 square feet of luxury on the water in upscale Huntington Harbor.
Their Italian-style two-story house has four bedrooms -- the upstairs master overlooks the harbor -- five bathrooms, a library-study, an office, a huge formal living-dining room, a cherrywood kitchen, a laundry room, an outdoor spa and a barbecue. And, of course, somewhere to tie up a boat.
The Fishers don't have a boat; nor do they own the property, which has just been listed for $4.25 million. They do, however, pay only $2,800 a month to live there, less than one-third the going market rate.
Similarly sweet deals are available in mansions, upscale condos, luxury high-rises and even more modest dwellings . . .
See more Q&A
(Photo: Yahoo News)
Read on »
 Question: I need a new water heater, and because my home's gas bill is so high, it occurred to me that it might be a good idea to get an electric water heater. My husband is not in favor of an on-demand water heater, so I've got to decide between gas or electric with a storage tank. Would putting in an electric water heater be a good move? And what is involved?
Answer: From Pardon Our Dust's "resident builder" Alon Toker:
Going the electric route would be more costly, both in initial costs (you would need to run a dedicated 220V line for it) and in the long run (gas, as expensive as it is, is still a cheaper energy source compared with electricity).
A 220V line, which is needed to power such an electricity-gobbling appliance, could add $500 to $2,500 to the cost of a water heater, depending on several variables: the type of wiring mandated (Romex or conduit) and whether an upgrade to the electrical panel might be needed.
A better idea is to install a high-efficiency gas water heater. But the best choice of all is a tankless gas water heater.
Though more expensive initially, the tankless model would save energy as compared with the tank unit. At my company, we have installed virtually nothing but tankless water heaters for some years with great feedback from clients. These units are more complicated and finicky than tank models, and a water softener should really be considered. But in my opinion, tankless heaters are the way to go.
Alon Toker is president of Mega Builders in Chatsworth. If you have a building-related question, e-mail it to podblog@aol.com and include "Resident Builder" in the subject line.
(Photo: Factricity; illustration: Kathy Price-Robinson)
 Question: My daughter, who lives in Westchester, has a house with coved ceilings and wants to paint the rooms but is wondering if there is a crown molding that breaks up the ceiling and accommodates the rounded ceiling and corners? — Greg
Answer: From Reseda licensed general contractor and author Gary M. Katz:
There isn't a manufactured crown profile that fits a cove ceiling. However, there are still two ways of doing it.
First, you could install a crown molding with a small shelf above. I've done this before and have seen the detail in historic homes,too, though I'm not always thrilled with the design. The shelf doesn't really hold much, because of the coved ceiling, so it becomes a dust shelf.
Another choice is to cut a new top "shoulder" on a standard crown molding, so that the crown will fit against the ceiling, but often the cove is too large a radius and a small shelf is still needed.
Probably the best alternative is to skip the crown and install a picture rail molding. Picture rail is the architecturally authentic way to terminate a cove ceiling; it provides a termination line for the ceiling color.
You can mount the picture rail at the beginning of the cove or even a few inches lower.
Gary M. Katz is the author of many carpentry books and DVDs. His newest DVD, with Jed Dixon, is on wainscoting and paneling and is the sixth in a series called "Mastering Finish Carpentry."
(Photos: From top: HGTV, HGTV, Kathy Price-Robinson)
 From Barry Stone's "Ask the Inspector" column in the Real Estate section:
Question: The neighbors who live behind us have three large, dead trees that border our fence. A few years ago, our insurance company informed us that they would no longer insure our roof because it has wood shingles. If our neighbors' trees should fall on our roof, who would be responsible for the repair costs?
Answer: The exclusion of the roof by your insurance company may only involve fire damage or rain leakage. You should contact them to see if you would be covered for damages caused by a falling tree.
As for your neighbors, their dead trees constitute a significant public-safety hazard. Notify them immediately that you want these trees removed and will hold them legally and financially responsible for any personal injuries or property damage that may be caused by their failure to do so.
If they do not respond, the municipal authorities should be notified. The appropriate agency should then give notice to your neighbors to have the trees removed. If your neighbors still fail to act, the municipality can remove the trees and bill your neighbor for the work.
Read the whole column
(Photo: Botanic Gardens Trust)
 [UPDATE: After this post ran, which mentions Iris Harrell's Bay Area/Silicon Valley remodeling firm, I got a progress report from Iris. Since the time I heard her speak, she has grown Harrell Remodeling to 47 employees (well, they're more like owners, as this is an ESOP company, or one with an employee stock ownership plan), and so now there is much less of a waiting period to get a job done. If you live in that area, this should be very good news. End of update.]
I spotted an ask-an-expert piece in the San Jose Mercury News and it caught my eye because the expert is Iris Harrell, a super-well-respected contractor in the Bay Area.
Iris used to be a schoolteacher, and then became a contractor. Her company employs lots of women, and I've heard her say that if she senses a potential client will be disrespectful to her employees, she won't take the job. And because her work is of such high quality and her ethics so stellar, there's typically a long waiting list to get a job done by Harrell Remodeling.
So, anyway, this piece is about designing a kitchen for cooks of differing heights. In this case, the husband is way tall and the wife not so much.
Here are some tips:
Design an island with two heights: 30 inches for the cooktop and some counter space, and 36 inches (the typical height of a counter) for part of the island. The lower portion could contain a salad sink.
Avoid a big range hood where the taller person might hit his head, and go for a downdraft-style ventilation system (pictured).
Build a floor-to-ceiling cabinet, rather than an upper and lower with counter space between, so important items (like plates and cups) don't end up in the upper cabinets where the shorter person will have a hard time reaching.
Read the whole story
Plus, you might want to consider hiring an actual kitchen designer. The fee you spend on this will be long forgotten while the functionality of your kitchen will be with you daily. Certified kitchen designer Susan Serra suggests 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Kitchen Designer.
 Jennifer, a mother of three young kids (who is NOT pictured here), is understandably "freaking out" about the possibility of lead-tained dust in her home. For advice, I turned to members of the newly form L.A. chapter of the National Assn. of the Remodeling Industry. Three contractors responded. Read the question and their answers below:
Question: I have three children under 4 years old, and I am having my living room painted in our 1940 house. The windowsills needed sanding. When I asked about the potential for lead paint, the contractor (who came highly recommended from several sources and is expensive) told me that it was only surface sanding (I painted with latex paint several years ago) and that he would make sure all the dust was cleaned up. Well, there was a lot more sanding and dust than I expected, and now I am freaking out that I took his word on the whole lead issue. What can I do now? Do I test whatever dust I can find? Is there some expert I can hire to have my house evaluated for lead exposure? Any help you can give me would be appreciated.
Answer: From Samantha Thompson, vice president of design, Custom Design & Construction, Los Angeles:
Thanks for your questions, and I can understand why you are concerned. For starters, federal law requires that contractors who are disturbing more than 2 square feet of painted surfaces give you a pamphlet called “Protect Your Family From Lead in your Home” before any work begins. The homeowner should sign a document saying they received the pamphlet, which the contractor should keep on file. Licensed contractors should employ only qualified workers and follow strict safety guidelines set by their state or federal government.
All homes built before 1978 have paint that contains high levels of lead. The lead from paint, chips and dust can pose health hazards, especially to children under the age of 6, if it is not taken care of properly.
The best thing to do now is have your home tested for lead-based paint. The removal of lead-based paint should only be done by trained, certified professionals who have experience working with hazardous materials. You can call the National Lead Information Center at 800-424-LEAD to find a lead abatement firm in your area. You can also find more information on its website, www.epa.gov/lead.
A more immediate step you can take is to clean up paint chips immediately and to clean all floors, window frames, windowsills and surfaces with warm water and an all-purpose cleaner. If you are still feeling uncomfortable about your children being exposed, you should consult your doctor. A simple blood test will detect of there are high levels if lead. Your doctor can then determine if more testing is needed.
More info from this company: (310) 815-4815
Read on »
 Question: Your coverage in the L.A. Times and your blog have inspired my husband and I to move forward with purchasing a new house that has everything but one key feature: A Great Kitchen. In fact, the existing kitchen is barely bigger than the one I had in my college apartment. We have a fantastic contractor whom we've used in the past, but we need a design plan and don't know where to start.
Our budget is $40,000, so the idea of hiring an architect, which would eat up a good chunk of the somewhat modest sum, is less than desirable. But we also don't want to make a mistake by not having a plan crafted by an expert. Where to start? Your suggestions and reply are most appreciated. Kind Regards, Tami R.
Answer: Tami, thank you for the kind words. I'm so excited for you. I’ll give you some ideas and invite other home enthusiasts reading this to add their suggestions.
First, I’d say you definitely want professional design services, and that means you’ll be paying for them, anywhere from $2,000 to $5,000. So I suggest when you state your plans from now on, you say something like this: “We have $37,000 for the remodel and $3,000 for the design.” That will help you steer your desires toward the proper price range.
Next, where do you find a designer? If you need major structural work done, you will need an architect or at least an engineer. For the price you mentioned, though, I doubt you could afford to add any new space. So I assume you'll be taking out a wall between the kitchen and dining room or family room to make the kitchen bigger. If it's a simple matter of removing a non-load-bearing wall to make your kitchen larger, I suggest you hire a certified kitchen designer, one who has CKD after his or her name. These people are certified by the National Kitchen and Bath Assn., and from what I've seen, they are talented and knowledgeable. To find one, plug your ZIP Code into the NKBA search engine and find those in your area. Also, read 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Kitchen Designer, by Susan Serra CKD. You can also get discounted design services at kitchen shops if you buy your cabinets from them. But again, look for the CKD designation. And sometimes you can find certified designers at the design desks at Home Depot and Lowe's. Also, ask your contractor if he's worked with any kitchen designers.
And finally, I suggest you do a lot of research in advance and get familiar with what you like and how much it costs. How much are hardwood floors? Good-quality windows? Glass tile backsplashes? High-end ranges? Most designers spend half their time educating clients about the real cost of materials and labor. If you get yourself up to speed first, you can adjust your expectations and not be faced with either disappointment or going into debt to achieve what you really can’t afford.
When you do approach kitchen designers, tell them your budget and the style you want to achieve. If they tell you any kitchen will cost no less than $60,000 to $80,000, move on and find someone else who can work with your budget. And get someone who knows about green remodeling. Nothing else makes sense.
Any other ideas for Tami?
 Question: I need some ideas to help block the view across the street from us.
When we bought our house 15 years ago the view across the street was of tall, beautiful flowering shrubs. We never saw the house behind the shrubs, which were about 15 feet high and 40 feet wide.
Recently, the owner decided to turn the house into a rental and cut down the shrubs. Now we see what was behind there: a really ugly, trashy house with sheets on the windows, overgrown lawn, etc. All the others houses on the street really nicely kept up.
We tried to buy it, but he won't sell. Any ideas on blocking the view? If we plant something it will have to be really tall as our house sits up about two feet and I'm afraid it will look strange as no one else has front yard hedges. Plus, we only have about 15 feet from the porch to right of way.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: Here's one idea, based on a fence (pictured above) I saw just yesterday on my walk. It's got panels staggered so that it blocks the view from the front, but allows views from the side. What if you did something like this with panels of trellis and vines?
This also brings to mind Stefan Hammerschmidt's house in Venice. He did a great remodel on his vintage cottage, preserving the house while adding a second floor. And then he found out the house across the street was in danger of being torn down and replaced by a McMansion. So, he bought that house and turned it into a rental.
Of course, buying the house across the street is a radical solution. But perhaps you could make that offer a few more times to the owner calmly and persistently, and maybe eventually he will give in.
Any other solutions for Kay?
 Question: Could you find a landscaper to comment on pros/cons of pea gravel in a residential setting? I'm entranced with the look, and permeable hardscape is important to me.
However, when I research on the Internet, I find most postings by homeowners are negative: It does not stay put if there are children or dogs in the household, neighborhood cats use it as litterbox, ants build mega cities in it, it's not a realistic choice if children run barefoot in the yard, a wheelbarrow pushed down the path creates ruts and sends pebbles into the flower beds.
I've also read that 2 inches is not sufficient and that 6 inches is needed and that the gravel should be mixed with aggregate to stabilize it better.
Answer: From Pamela Berstler, landscape designer of Flower to the People in Los Angeles:
We LOVE gravel as a mulch in the garden, and most people in the Mediterranean would agree with that assessment. It reflects heat, but protects roots, and it maintains moisture, reducing the need for irrigation, and does not decompose and require replacement.
The wide variety of local colored stone can really enhance a natural landscape installation, but we try to stay away from exotic or excessively processed material, as it is not a sustainable solution.
Gravel mulch and pathways require different treatments. In the garden beds, as mulch, 2 inches is pretty much the maximum required (not 6 inches). You actually want to use less rather than more, as the deeper the gravel application, the more difficult to keep it away from the base of plants, keep ruts out and keep it from spilling everywhere. When the application is thin and slightly compacted, it works beautifully. And of course, we recommend NO weed barrier beneath.
The optimal type of gravel will vary for pathways and planting beds. Gravel in the planting beds can be rounder, and perhaps even smaller — as small as 3/8-inch diameter, and as round as a beach pebble. Our favorite simple gravel for mulch in planter beds is 3/8-inch to 1-inch Del Rio pebble, but pretty much anything will work.
For pathways, there are more basic rules. First, gravel pathways are best installed over a stabilized base — stabilized compacted soil, decomposed granite or a plastic grid like a grasspave work the best, and only about 3/4-inch to 1-inch depth is required. Second, gravel pathways must be contained with a barrier that rises 1 inch above grade at a minimum. We like stone edging (classy and very Mediterranean), but bender board, aluminum or steel edging would work too. Third, and perhaps most important, the type of gravel needs to be the sharper-edged gravel, not the rounded beach stone. The sharper gravel will grab on to its neighbor and become firmer and easier to walk on than the rounded stones.
E-mail Pamela
(Photo: Flower to the People)
Here's a question from reader Dan in Canada:
I am seeking information on solar blinds. I am up in Canada but have south facing windows in our home which cause tremendous heat in the summer, even with our Energy Star-rated windows.
I have seen manufacturers of so-called "solar blinds" talk to their value without disrupting the view from the inside and wanted to know do they actually work, if it is better to have the kind on the inside or outside the window and who produced the best solar blind?
I have seen a few manufacturer websites and think that the ones from EZ Snap seem to have the best possibility costwise (under $3 per square foot), but I just don't know.
Thanks in advance,
Dan
Any advice for him? Please comment below.
 Here's a question from reader Molly K.:
"I have multiple remodel jobs to do on my 1950 bungalow and a very limited budget.
"What kind of professional should I hire to help me make a design and budget plan given current costs and the need to consider costs in choosing various elements to use?"
My take:
I love the idea of creating a design and budget plan, rather than simply tackling one disparate project after another. Instead, you could get a plan in place and then fulfill it as funds become available.
You can get some free or reasonably priced help from the design desks at Home Depot, Lowe's and Ikea, among others. (Read about a guy who did just that.) Sometimes you have pay a couple hundred dollars for the services, sometimes it's free when you buy the cabinets from the store. (Read comments on Home Depot/Lowe's design services on Garden Web.)
But here's a crazy idea: How about hiring a remodeling contractor to help you create a plan? After all, these are the people who know about budgets, whereas a pure designer type might not be familiar with the costs of various construction options.
A couple of years ago, you might have encountered remodeling companies too swamped with work to perform this kind of service, but the days of homeowners refinancing to pull $100,000 from equity for big remodels are gone. Remodeling contractors are now freed up, and looking for work.
I suggest finding a design/build firm, which is a contractor with designers on staff, or a contractor who has good design sense. You should expect to spend around $75 to $125 an hour for these brainstorming and planning services. And be sure to let the contractor know what you're up to. Getting someone in your house to toss ideas around, all the while knowing you will never hire them to do the job, is bad juju.
It might sound counterintuitive to pay for planning services when you're already strapped for money, but having a plan could give you peace of mind now and a better use of money later on.
Your take?
(Photo: Mar Vista homeowner Carl Balton reveals his kitchen remodeling plans.)
 Question: Our stucco house was built in late 2004 and within the last month or so we've notice some white fuzzy fungus developing on the (east-facing) concrete slab of a small exterior alcove that connects the kitchen to the garage.
I tried scrubbing it with a warm water and bleach solution and it went away briefly, but now it's reappearing at a faster rate and spreading. What is an eco-safe but effective fungicide to use? — Debbie
Answer: From licensed general contractor Alon Toker of Mega Builders in Chatsworth:
The "white fuzzy fungus" described might not be a fungus at all. Rather, it might be efflorescence (salt left behind when water evaporates). I would suggest that you contact a competent concrete finisher to take a look and address the issue. If it turns out that indeed you are dealing with a fungus, I would recommend contacting an hygienist to test and identify the fungus and prescribe a treatment.
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(Photo: Image of efflorescence from Wikipedia)
 If you're going green, you know that transportation of your green goods must be factored in. Even if a product is made of recycled materials, for instance, when you have to ship it halfway around the world, that creates a lot of greenhouse gases and negates your green efforts.
All this is especially so with stone products, which are, you know, as heavy as rocks.
So when I came across a well-thought-out Q&A on finding locally quarried stone, I wanted to share it with you. The question is answered by Tracy A. Stone, who opened her architectural practice in Los Angeles in 1991. She is a member of the U.S. Green Building Council and a LEED Accredited Professional, and has a working knowledge of sustainable strategies, technologies and materials.
This Q&A comes from the GreenHomeGuide: Question: I am remodeling my bathroom with an eye on eco-friendly. I hate the idea of shipping granite around the world, but I'd like to use some type of stone on the floor and in the shower. Is there any locally quarried stone in the Southern California area? — Caroline Kaplan, Mission Viejo, CA
Answer: Natural stone has an appealing color, texture, and mass that make it pleasing to interact with in an interior environment. However, if it is not quarried locally, it does take an enormous amount of energy to transport.
Much of the stone that we find on the market in Southern California comes from as far away as China. Slate is domestic, but it comes from Maine, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Vermont. Historically, Northern California had a number of granite quarries, but most of them are no longer active. Two that remain active are Cold Spring's Academy Black and Sierra White quarries in Raymond, California. I welcome comments from green professionals who know of other quarries in the region with sustainable environmental practices. Meanwhile, I encourage you to consider a few of the locally available green alternatives to stone:
Read on »
 This is my own dilemma:
Question: I love the look of vine-covered houses, which look to me like storybook houses. But my husband hates it. We do have invasive ivy growing on our house, and it's awful. It pushes its way under the roof rafters and into the house. And it gets full of dust and bugs.
But I wonder if there might me another way for me to get the look I like. Is there another vine you could recommend or something else I'm not thinking of?
For inspiration, I turned to Pamela Berstler, an outdoor living expert who appears often on TV home shows, and co-owner of Flower to the People in Los Angeles:
Answer: The type of vine is only one element to consider when covering house walls with greenery. Another, perhaps even more important consideration, is how the greenery attaches itself to the wall, if at all.
Any vigorous grower that is suitable for covering a large vertical space like a wall or fence will have some unsavory characteristics like wanting to push through stucco cracks or under roof tiles, or around window trim; this behavior is not limited to the non-native invasive species that we would NOT want to use anyway like English and Algerian ivy or creeping fig. Even beautiful climbers like purple or red trumpet vine, passionflower, chocolate vine or hardenbergia can be inconsiderate guests if allowed to attach themselves directly to the wall of the house.
We use different attachment methods, depending upon the vine and the type of wall (stucco, brick, wood or cementitious siding, metal). In almost all cases, we want the vine to APPEAR to climb up the wall without actually touching it.
Read on »
 Question: Am I required to install a ventilation fan in my bathroom? My husband and I are concerned with what might be involved. Can you make any recommendations? — Barbara
Answer: An exhaust fan in a bathroom is not a requirement according to building codes if you have the proper ventilation through what we call a "passive" system, which is basically a window or operable skylight. However, if you have no window, codes require you to have a mechanical method of removing moisture from the air, and that means an exhaust fan.
But even if you have a window, you should realize that the differential in pressure needed to move moisture out of the room, or a cross breeze, will create ventilation only if such conditions exists. The exhaust fan, on the other hand, will actively remove moisture and odors from the bathroom much faster than an open window in most cases.
Replacing an existing fan is fairly simple because there is prior ducting already in place. And I do recommend this. Older fans tend to be noisy, and when fans are noisy, people don't turn them on. And a fan that's not turned on is no better than no fan at all. You can also buy humidity-sensing fans that will turn on themselves when needed, helping to fight excess moisture and mold.
If you don't already have an existing fan, your approach will really depend on the amount of room you have in your attic. If you have adequate room, you can duct through the attic and outside of the house through a side wall. There have been significant improvements in these fans over the years, and Nutone and Panasonic make some great models that are strong and quiet. The newer fans not only work better, they are also energy-efficient. The high-quality fans run $250 to $360 and are fairly simple to install. Panasonic has a helpful page of frequently asked questions on ventilation and fans.
Matt Plaskoff, a veteran Los Angeles contractor (license No. 660059), is CEO and founder of Plaskoff Construction and One Week Bath. He is a frequent expert on home improvement TV shows and former lead construction consultant of ABC's "Extreme Makeover: Home Edition."
Got a question for Matt? Click here to send an email.
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Question: We recently removed "popcorn" textured ceilings in the house we're remodeling. Now we need to do something with the bare ceilings, starting with the vaulted ceiling in the living room. One contractor says we can just paint over the ceiling (it's been sanded since the popcorn was removed). Another says we need to plaster first or use textured paint. Who's right? Plastering looks like it will add several hundred dollars to the budget, which we'd like to save for future projects. But we don't want to paint it just to find we need to plaster and repaint. Thanks for the help. — Stephanie B.
Answer: The question is: How smooth is the ceiling? Did the removal company leave it in a "paint-ready" condition? If it is smooth and there are no divots or check marks in it from the scraping tools, I would recommend a very good primer and just go ahead and paint. The purpose of a plaster skim coat is simply to smooth out the surface and remove any imperfections. Hope that helps, and good luck with your efforts!
Matt Plaskoff, a veteran Los Angeles contractor (license No. 660059), is CEO and founder of Plaskoff Construction and One Week Bath. He is a frequent expert on home improvement TV shows and former lead construction consultant of ABC's "Extreme Makeover: Home Edition."
Got a question for Matt? Click here to send an email.
 Question: I'd love to hire an architect to give me some ideas for my remodel. I'm not sure I want to hire the architect to oversee the whole project, or even draw up any specific plans. I just want the benefit of an architect's creative ability to come up with visions for what my house could become. Do architects do these type of "visioning" or brainstorming assignments, and how much would I expect to pay for this?
Answer: From Robert Nebolon, whose south Hermosa Beach project will be featured this Sunday in the Real Estate section of the newspaper:
I can't speak for all architects, but yes, architects will visit your house and brainstorm along with you. And it's best done with a glass of wine for all involved!!
An architect can charge on an hourly basis, or a flat-fee basis. An hourly basis would be good if the owner wants the architect's input over time. A flat-fee basis could be done for a one-time visit for about an hour to 90 minutes. I would think that such a visit would cost somewhere between $250 and $500, depending how busy the architect is.
To give you some idea, my flat fee is $250. Then, if the owner decides to use my services and we sign an agreement, I credit that fee back on the first invoice.
Here's what typically occurs during an initial visit:
1. An architect can typically see possibilities that an owner or layperson may not be able to see, and he or she will share those ideas.
2. Many owners have ideas that don't meet the planning code, but they aren't aware of that. A good example of this is when owners want their addition to encroach into a setback. The planning code can be quite Byzantine in some cities, and it's hard for a homeowner to keep track of all the rules.
3. The same thing can be said for lack of knowledge about the building code. A good example is when an owner may want a bedroom without a window, which is against the building code.
4. The architect can also inform the owner of the cost feasibility of the project.
At the very least, if you can get some good solid advice from an architect as early as possible, you can be pointed in the right direction so that you won't waste time, energy and/or money pursuing ideas that won't work.
(Photos: Robert Nebolon created a computerized mock-up of the roof of this Manhattan Beach home to show the homeowners, the neighbors and the city how it would look after a remodel.)
 You may have heard of “advanced” framing in which 2-by-6 studs are placed 24 inches apart when building a house, as opposed conventional framing, which is 2-by-4 studs 16 inches apart.
In green building circles, 24-inch framing is widely seen as being a good choice for many reasons. But the consensus is not unanimous (as you'll see below), and this demonstrates that building techniques are often a matter of builder or homeowner preference rather than being clearly right or wrong.
This discussion started with a question from a reader who wants to build a green home in Altadena. She wrote:
Some green homebuilding books recommend the "advanced wood-framing technique" of setting 2-x-6-inch wall studs 24 inches on center (rather than the standard 2-x-4-inch studs 16 inches apart). They indicate that this approach saves 20% of lumber used and is stronger. I was wondering if you have ever heard of anyone doing that in their Los Angeles home and if it would considered structurally weaker or stronger for an earthquake-prone location like L.A.?
So, I forwarded the question to two SoCal contractors I respect -- Devon Hartman and Alon Toker -- and I was surprised to get very different perspectives.
Click below to read their answers.
Read on »
 A reader sent in this question and I'm glad because I'm having the same quandary. The question:
I'll be purchasing lighting for above a bathroom mirror. Which is better? Mounting the fixture so the lights point down or point up? Currently there is a bar fixture so I have no experience with this lighting issue. Thank you!
In my case, it's a classic debate about form vs. function.
As you can see by the photo, I recently replaced a chrome and glass cabinet/light combination with a new $100 light fixture from Home Depot. (Still to come: New mirror, sink, counter, fixture, vanity, backsplash, floor, tub and window. But hey, the light is a start!)
I pointed the three bulbs up to highlight the pitched wood ceiling, the small room's best feature. But I've noticed that the light for applying makeup or shaving is not so good. I've toyed with the idea of turning it around to point down, or to somehow add sconces on either side of the mirror for more light.
What's your opinion? Should the bulbs point down to shine on the sink and the person, or shoot up to reflect light on the ceiling and make the room seem more spacious?
 Property inspector Barry Stone takes on the asbestos question in the L.A. Times Real Estate Section:
Question: I have not had a good night's sleep since reading about asbestos. We've lived in our home for 30 years and have popcorn ceilings. After all these years, is it too late to have them removed, or are we already doomed? Some companies offer asbestos testing if you send them a sample, but is it safe for us to remove the sample ourselves?
Answer: You are not doomed. The belief that small or periodic exposure to asbestos fibers poses a major health risk has no factual basis. The connection between asbestos exposure and respiratory disease involves those who worked with asbestos materials on a daily basis, as manufacturers or installers. Heavy exposure to airborne asbestos fibers can cause lung cancer and other severe respiratory diseases, such as mesothelioma. But the mere presence of asbestos ceiling texture is not a cause for worry or alarm.
See the whole answer
Read an asbestos fact sheet from Stanford University
Read the perspective of Columbia University's Go Ask Alice
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 Question: My wife and I are getting ready to remodel our master bath. However it's small and our options are limited. We can get a better look and use out of a huge walk-in shower, but I'm fearful a bath/shower combo may be better for resale. Any expert thoughts out there would be appreciated.
Answer: From Los Angeles Realtor David Kean:
"A home’s master bath can be a major selling point or a deal breaker. If you create a space too specific to your taste, potential buyers will deduct the cost to re-do the room from the price they offer, if they make an offer at all.
"To qualify as a full bath, there must be a toilet, sink and tub. If there is only a shower and no tub, the bathroom is considered a three-quarters bath. Most buyers expect a bathtub in the master bath. While a walk-in shower tends to get the most use and is practical, you still need the tub for optimal resale.
"There are several ways to create a tub and shower combo that gives you the best of both worlds. By adding a glass shower enclosure to a large soaking tub, you will create the feeling of a walk-in shower while retaining the tub. Or you can build in the tub and use a tile or marble surround that encases the tub. This will tie it into the overall design of the bathroom and create a more custom look."
My Take: Even though I'm a bath devotee, I was rooting for you to get the huge shower. As I found out in a poll titled "Shower or Bath Most Important?," the votes were overwhelmingly in favor of the shower, versus the bath. While a hardy 56 voters stuck with me on the importance of the bath, 195 said showers reign supreme.
I think it depends on how long you will be in the house. Why deny yourself a huge walk-in shower if you'll be in the house for five to seven years or longer? If you're going to sell next summer, fine. But for years of use, gosh, get what you want. And maybe when you go to sell, it will be a seller's market (remember those good old days) and you'll get multiple offers no matter what you've done.
Or, consider these before-and-after photos of a bath remodel in Palm Springs. This is a sunken shower and bath combination. It looks like a very uncomfortable bath to me, but you still get to say there's a bathtub in the room and you also get a walk-in shower. Obviously, this would require more work than just placing a shower or bathtub at floor level, and may not even be possible.
Any other ideas for this guy?
See more Q&A • See more on SoCal baths
 Question: What are the minimum dimensions for a half-bath that the city of Los Angeles will permit? In other words, how small a room can I convert to make a powder room and still get a permit?
— Kris in Highland Park
Answer: From licensed general contractor Alon Toker of Mega Builders:
The minimal dimensions of a powder room would be dictated by the elements that are in it.
The door needs to be 32 inches wide. The toilet must have a wall space of 30 inches minimum (15 inches to each side from center of drain). Then, 21 inches are needed in front of the toilet and in front of the sink.
Once all of these minimal requirements are met you will have your minimal room space. To meet these requirements and still keep the room size to a minimum, try a wall-mounted toilet (which is more expensive than a typical floor-mounted version) and/or a corner-mounted sink.
This said, I would advise you to revisit the notion of going to the absolute minimal size possible. Allow yourself a bit more space, if possible, so the bathroom has some visual "breathing room" as well as physical room. For example, 32 inches of wall space for the toilet, rather than the 30 inches required, would provide an adult with a more adequate amount of elbow room.
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Photo courtesy of Kitchen and Bath Design News
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Question: My father and mother live together in a six-bedroom, five-bath house in Northridge. In the last three years, all three of the kids have moved out. My dad's business isn't doing that well, so he is trying to think of ways to earn a living. But he's over 60, so starting a new career isn't really a feasible option. 
