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 Question: My father and mother live together in a six-bedroom, five-bath house in Northridge. In the last three years, all three of the kids have moved out. My dad's business isn't doing that well, so he is trying to think of ways to earn a living. But he's over 60, so starting a new career isn't really a feasible option.
His current idea, which he is serious about, is to invest $25,000 into converting the maid's room and guest room areas (which are connected to the house via a garden room and contain a bathroom, study, and bedroom) into two rentable units that would cover the monthly mortgage.
I think this is an awful idea. First of all, there is no need for he and my mother to continue living in a pricey L.A. suburb, much less in a house so large. Second, what would chopping up a house in such a manner do to its resale value? He wants to keep the house (largely for sentimental reasons), which is entirely impractical. Odds are he will have to end up selling after he has butchered it into pieces.
Please give me any advice you can. He is set on this idea, and from what I know of real estate (not much), this will not be successful and will only hurt our already dwindling economic standing.
What would you recommend doing? In this type of situation would it be better to downsize and invest the profits from the sale in different properties? Or does his idea have any merit?
I truly would appreciate your feedback. Sincerely, Tamar K.
My take: Realtor David Kean makes good points below about whether extra units are even allowed. It's possible that one guest unit is permitted but not two.
I have a personal perspective. My 84-year-old mother-in-law, Jody, converted a 100-year-old Victorian in Santa Barbara into rental units several years ago. (You can see Jody above on her lawn with her great granddaughter.) She loves being a landlady and having young people, and their dogs, around her. Her goal is to remain active, useful and independent. Having her college-student-age renters around her actually makes that goal more realistic. Your parents might enjoy having renters. It might not be all about the money but about creating a little community right on their own property.
A Realtor's perspective: From Prudential agent David Kean: The first thing to check are local zoning restrictions. The house may not be properly zoned for multiple residences, so check with the city.
The second factor to consider is how long it will take to recoup the cost of the renovations. The $25,000 figure seems too low an estimate for adding two kitchens and another bath. It may take one to two years before your parents start to turn a profit. A lot can change in a year or two. Ultimately, is it worth the cost and stress of a remodel?
The renovation could work out well if done properly. It would be wise to speak to an architect. The units should have the feel of separate guest apartments. Make sure the conversion blends into the architecture of the house.
The apartments should not feel completely disjointed. One unit would be preferable to two. One unit would give the feeling of a separate guest house, while two units might seem out of place in a private home.
They could close the access from the main house and replace a window with a French door, creating a new access point for the rental unit. There are interesting modular kitchenettes on the market. They are easy to install and, more importantly, easy to remove if the home is eventually put up for sale.
On the upside, future buyers may like the apartment or apartments for a home office, a workshop, an apartment for an elderly parent or older child, or purely for rental income.
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 Over here at the Robinson/Price-Robinson abode, there has been a standoff concerning the new water heater we need so badly. Ours is likely 20 years old and not very efficient. Our gas bill would go down immensely if we replaced that beast.
But the choices are many. Do we get a new and efficient gas-powered tank model? Or a tankless gas-fired model?
Or, if we are planning to install solar power when the prices of photovoltaic systems are expected to drop by 2010, shouldn't we install either an electric-powered tank model or an electric-powered tankless model? (See a comparison of lifecycle costs.)
Trouble is, with the latter two choices, we need about $1,000 worth of electrical work done to give them the 220 volts of power they require.
I'm the one who wants the electric, tankless, on-demand system. And Bill wants the gas-powered tank system. Thus, a standoff.
But I think we might be getting closer to doing it Bill's way, and that's always so much easier all the way around. Spouses, can you relate?
Part of my thinking about the tankless system is that most of the cool green builders I respect are big, big proponents of the tankless systems. And that means a lot to me.
But I was recently contacted by Wes Harding, a green-leaning builder in Long Beach (Lic. No. 895042) who believes that new, super-efficient tank systems are actually the better way to go.
Wes provided a link to an article about a scientific analysis of all systems, but, he noted: "The only problem I see with the article is efficiency is measured in gas or electricity consumed, not the amount of water used."
Here's a chart from the analysis:
In terms of both water and energy savings, Wes is sold on tank water heaters for these reasons:
1. God forbid, but if we are ever in a major earthquake or disaster, where do we get our water supply from if we have converted to tankless? With a tank system, the water in the tank can be used in an emergency.
2. Water is wasted in a tankless system because it has to be heated through a coil before it reaches the point of use.
3. Tankless systems operate on the volume of water. If you set your faucet to a trickle, the heater won't kick in. This allows for "slugs" or cold spurts between the hot-water delivery as well as more water consumed.
4. A limited number of fixtures can be used at one time.
5. More electrical energy is consumed as the amount of water increases because of the energy it takes to provide water pressure.
A few more links from Wes:
• A local company that manufactures on-demand recirculating water pumps. The products stops wasting water and can be added to any water heater.
• A nonprofit that sells energy-efficient products that are very affordable.
• Green companies in Long Beach.
Got questions for Wes? Post them below.
(Photo: Pacific County, Wash.)
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 Question: I have hated my brick fireplace since day one of living in my otherwise-fabulous home. I have considered removing the brick altogether and creating a brand-new one by placing stucco over it with a mantle, or painting the brick white and adding a rich, dark wooden mantle on top. Actually, a Williams-Sonoma home store was my inspiration; it has the same painted white fireplace. It seems to be the most cost-effective. Do you recommend painting a brick fireplace white? How would you do this? What kind of paint? Some say oil, other say latex. Just curious to hear your thoughts. — Brianna
Answer: Brianna, I also like the look of a painted-brick fireplace. In fact, I wish I had brick on my fireplace instead of my big faux lava rocks that aren't so easily transformed with paint or plaster.
I asked the advice of Dan Gallagher of Gallagher's Decorative Painting & Design in Sierra Madre. Dan's a decorative and home painter who has been featured in this blog here, here and here, and in the newspaper's Home section. Check that out here.
Dan says: All your ideas are good and doable. If a painted look is the course of action (either decorative or straight paint), the most important thing is that oil-base primer should be used, at least two coats. It's best that the oil-base primer is a long-drying for maximum strength. Your usage of the fireplace should help to determine the type of paint -- oil-base or water-base -- for the finish. If the fireplace is used a lot, go with an oil-base paint. For low usage, like two or three times a year, go with water-base paint. Mark the can and store it for touch-ups in the future. Remember, removing paint from brick and mortar can be done, but it is extremely expensive.
If you were to go with a stucco or masonry-type finish, you might consider adding a relief design. It will add interest and personalize it to your home and decor.
For more insights, Dan can be reached at his website.
Also, Brianna, check out this absolutely gorgeous transformation of a brick fireplace in Manhattan Beach.
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(Photo: Sunset)
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Question: I am looking for a home and garden show in the Malibu area. Are you
aware of annual shows there? -Reeve
Answer: Not to my knowledge. I think Santa Monica would be the closest show of that type.
Here's what I have in my calendar for the rest of the year:
JUNE
8: Rose Bowl Flea Market, Rose Bowl, Pasadena
13-15: Victorville Home & Backyard Show, San Bernardino County Fairgrounds, Victorville
14: California Salvias, class with Bart O'Brien, Theodore Payne Foundation for Wildflowers and Native Plants, Sun Valley, $45, 1 to 3 p.m.
20-22: Pomona Home & Backyard Show, Fairplex L.A. County Fairgrounds, Pomona
27-29: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, L.A. Convention Center, Los Angeles
Daily through June 30: Getty Villa Architecture and Gardens Tour, Malibu, free, reservations required, 11:30 a.m., 1:30 and 3:30 p.m.
JULY
13: Rose Bowl Flea Market, Rose Bowl, Pasadena
AUGUST
1-3: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, L.A. Convention Center, Los Angeles
10: Rose Bowl Flea Market, Rose Bowl, Pasadena
20-24: Southern California Home & Garden, Anaheim Convention Center, Anaheim
22-24: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, Pasadena Conference Center, Pasadena
SEPTEMBER
6-7: Central Coast Fall Home Show, Santa Maria Fairpark, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
5-7: Riverside Home Improvement & Remodeling Show, Riverside Convention Center
12-14: San Diego Fall Home & Garden Show, Del Mar Showgrounds
12-14: Ventura Home & Garden Show, Seaside Park, Ventura County Fairgrounds, Ventura
16-17: Santa Barbara Home & Garden Show, Earl Warren Showgrounds, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
28: 12th annual Autumn Home Tour, Henry T. Oxnard National Historic District, Oxnard
OCTOBER
3-5: Fall Home & Garden Show, Saugus Speedway, Saugus
4: National Solar Tour, various SoCal communities, details upcoming
10-12: Home Remodeling & Decorating Show, L.A. Convention Center, Los Angeles
10-12: Pomona Home Improvement & Remodeling Show, Fairplex L.A. County Fairgrounds, Pomona
NOVEMBER
6-8: West Coast Green, Fort Mason Center, San Francisco
DECEMBER
13-14: Victorian Christmas House Tours, Heritage Square, Oxnard
ONGOING
Home Depot weekly in-store clinics
Lowe's Build and Grow clinics for children
(Send SoCal home improvement calendar items to podblog@aol.com.)
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 Question: I was recently building a children's playhouse and began to put the walls up. As I did, the neighbor who lives behind me came over and said that we were blocking her view. The view she has is of the back of our house. The playhouse would be approximately 8 to 9 inches above her 9-foot fence. She said she was going to find out if she could stop us from building it. Is this possible from a legal standpoint? Thanks, Marcus
Answer: From Pardon Our Dust's "resident builder" Alon Toker:
It depends on what exactly is being constructed. Is it built to function like a treehouse or a kid's playhouse? Or is it built as a permanent structure that could be used as a spare bedroom or office?
If the former, this is not a building-and-safety, planning or zoning issue and the city is likely to stay out of it. If it's the latter, however, plans and permits would be needed as well as inspections, and if these were not secured, the neighbor might have unwelcome leverage.
The noted 9-foot fence, by the way, might be counter-leverage that works to your advantage, as it too might not be legal. The typical maximum fence height allowed is 6 feet.
To read for yourself what the City of Los Angeles building code says about accessory buildings, pergolas, retaining walls, excavation in cemeteries and more, click here.
Alon Toker is president of Mega Builders in Chatsworth. If you have a building-related question, e-mail it to podblog@aol.com and include "Resident Builder" in the subject line.
(Photo: Playhouses.com)
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At the urging of reader "tarbubble," I asked the designers at Pamela Burton & Company what lawn substitutes they used on their award-winning Malibu landscape (which was featured previously on this blog).
I got a response from Burton associate Stephen Billings. First of all, regarding grasses in lieu of lawn, he recommends referring to the Sunset Western Garden Book for a list of alternatives to turf for lawns.
As for this particular landscape, three of the ornamental grasses we used are:
• Muhlenbergia capillaris
• Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light'
• Nassella tenuissima
And here's more info I dug up:
Muhlenbergia capillaris (left): As summer is winding down and with it your blooming annuals and perennials, Muhlenbergia capillaris (Pink Muhly Grass) is springing up — giant puffballs of cotton-candy pink, so airy you expect a breeze to carry them away. A source of late-season color, this native grass is effortless to grow and tolerant of just about anything Mother Nature throws its way. The grass forms a nice little hedge, edging, or middle-of-the-border ribbon of color from spring through summer, but when the rosy-pink plumes arise on 4-foot stems, it grabs the garden spotlight. Tolerates heat, humidity, poor soil, and even drought. See a white version called White Cloud. (From home Depot)
Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light' (right): A beautiful grass whose white margins on its very narrow leaves give it a creamy-pale green from a distance. Blooms late and doesn't tend to self-sow, although it may do so moderately in moist areas. Grows to 6 feet tall. (From Home and Garden TV)
Nassella tenuissima (left): Also called Mexican feather grass, it is soft and shiny in the spring garden. Nassella tenuissima should be trimmed severely in the later part of the summer as the seed heads start to dry. Once matured the seed is very fruitful and can become something of a pest. The florets are very prone to sticking in socks or the fur of your pets. This is not recommended for gardens near wild areas as the Mexican feather grass can easily escape. Sometimes sold as Stipa tenuissima. (From California Gardens.com)
(Photos: Muhlenbergia capillaris: Home Depot; Miscanthus sinesis: HGTV; Nassella tenuissima: California Gardens)
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 A fellow reader sent in this query. Do you have any suggestions?
"I live in Eagle Rock, Calif., and I am looking to replace our knob-and-tube wiring. I have had a number of bids. Some who bid didn't seem trustworthy. With others, I thought: "WOW! Really? That much?"
"I have yet to find anyone who seems trustworthy and affordable. If you know of anyone or any good source to go to, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated."
Thanks, Paxon
(Photo: Wikipedia)
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 Question: Hello there Kathy. You seem to be the source on all things remodeled, redecorated and staged, so I am writing to you to ask if you have any information about how to rent a staged home? My cousin read an article recently in the Los Angeles Times about owners of staged homes who want to rent them out to a responsible party for low rent so that the house is lived in while it is on the market. I am very interested in this concept, and would love to find out how to rent a staged home! I am the perfect candidate. :-) Please let me know if you have any information about this! Thank you, Abby
Answer: Abby, thanks for the kind words. That excellent article ran a few weeks ago in the Real Estate section. The article is no longer available online, but I used my connections (don't I sound important?) and requested the article for you from Real Estate Editor Lauren Beale. She came through and I think it has the answers you seek:
Los Angeles Times
Sunday, May 4, 2008
A sweet place to bunk
Home managers can give for-sale properties that important lived-in look.
By Frank Nelson, Special to The Times
Pockets of people across the Southland are living like royalty without it costing them a king's ransom. Take Jim and Laura Fisher, currently basking in about 5,000 square feet of luxury on the water in upscale Huntington Harbor.
Their Italian-style two-story house has four bedrooms -- the upstairs master overlooks the harbor -- five bathrooms, a library-study, an office, a huge formal living-dining room, a cherrywood kitchen, a laundry room, an outdoor spa and a barbecue. And, of course, somewhere to tie up a boat.
The Fishers don't have a boat; nor do they own the property, which has just been listed for $4.25 million. They do, however, pay only $2,800 a month to live there, less than one-third the going market rate.
Similarly sweet deals are available in mansions, upscale condos, luxury high-rises and even more modest dwellings . . .
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(Photo: Yahoo News)
Read on »
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 Question: I need a new water heater, and because my home's gas bill is so high, it occurred to me that it might be a good idea to get an electric water heater. My husband is not in favor of an on-demand water heater, so I've got to decide between gas or electric with a storage tank. Would putting in an electric water heater be a good move? And what is involved?
Answer: From Pardon Our Dust's "resident builder" Alon Toker:
Going the electric route would be more costly, both in initial costs (you would need to run a dedicated 220V line for it) and in the long run (gas, as expensive as it is, is still a cheaper energy source compared with electricity).
A 220V line, which is needed to power such an electricity-gobbling appliance, could add $500 to $2,500 to the cost of a water heater, depending on several variables: the type of wiring mandated (Romex or conduit) and whether an upgrade to the electrical panel might be needed.
A better idea is to install a high-efficiency gas water heater. But the best choice of all is a tankless gas water heater.
Though more expensive initially, the tankless model would save energy as compared with the tank unit. At my company, we have installed virtually nothing but tankless water heaters for some years with great feedback from clients. These units are more complicated and finicky than tank models, and a water softener should really be considered. But in my opinion, tankless heaters are the way to go.
Alon Toker is president of Mega Builders in Chatsworth. If you have a building-related question, e-mail it to podblog@aol.com and include "Resident Builder" in the subject line.
(Photo: Factricity; illustration: Kathy Price-Robinson)
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 Question: My daughter, who lives in Westchester, has a house with coved ceilings and wants to paint the rooms but is wondering if there is a crown molding that breaks up the ceiling and accommodates the rounded ceiling and corners? — Greg
Answer: From Reseda licensed general contractor and author Gary M. Katz:
There isn't a manufactured crown profile that fits a cove ceiling. However, there are still two ways of doing it.
First, you could install a crown molding with a small shelf above. I've done this before and have seen the detail in historic homes,too, though I'm not always thrilled with the design. The shelf doesn't really hold much, because of the coved ceiling, so it becomes a dust shelf.
Another choice is to cut a new top "shoulder" on a standard crown molding, so that the crown will fit against the ceiling, but often the cove is too large a radius and a small shelf is still needed.
Probably the best alternative is to skip the crown and install a picture rail molding. Picture rail is the architecturally authentic way to terminate a cove ceiling; it provides a termination line for the ceiling color.
You can mount the picture rail at the beginning of the cove or even a few inches lower.
Gary M. Katz is the author of many carpentry books and DVDs. His newest DVD, with Jed Dixon, is on wainscoting and paneling and is the sixth in a series called "Mastering Finish Carpentry."
(Photos: From top: HGTV, HGTV, Kathy Price-Robinson)
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Question: My father and mother live together in a six-bedroom, five-bath house in Northridge. In the last three years, all three of the kids have moved out. My dad's business isn't doing that well, so he is trying to think of ways to earn a living. But he's over 60, so starting a new career isn't really a feasible option. 
