Boat catches fire, sinks during Bisbee's Cabo San Lucas marlin tournament

*Updated with photos and a quote from tournament director Wayne Bisbee

The 50-foot Bottom Line caught fire and sank today off the Palmilla Hotel during the first day of the Bisbee's Black & Blue Marlin Tournament off Cabo San Lucas.

The anglers and crew were rescued by neighboring anglers. No injuries were reported.

“It was miraculous no one was seriously injured,” said tournament director Wayne Bisbee, as he and the rescued anglers watched the burning vessel slowly dip below the surface aboard the committee boat. “It was a tragic and a very humbling experience.”

The annual tournament, which is  the world's richest billfish competition, began a day later than scheduled because of a tropical storm. Anglers aboard 94 boats--make that 93--are competing for $2 million in prize money.  The tournament will conclude Saturday.

-- Pete Thomas

Photos: Bottom Line on fire and sinking soon after the start of the Bisbee's Black and Blue Jackpot Tournament off Cabo San Lucas. Credit: Bisbee's

Cabo San Lucas bids farewell to Tropical Storm Rick, which caused minimal damage

Tourists and residents in Cabo San Lucas are enjoying sunny skies and breathing a sigh of relief now that Tropical Storm Rick has passed the Baja California peninsula and is diminishing in strength as it approaches Mazatlan. 

The storm did not cause widespread flooding or destruction in the Cabo San Lucas area but large surf generated by the storm was responsible for the death of a 16-year-old boy and for eroding portions of Medano Beach.

The port remains closed but will reopen Thursday, which will mark the beginning of the Bisbee's Black & Blue Marlin Tournament, which will run through Saturday. The event is the world's richest billfish tournament;  anglers will compete for $3 million in prize money.

As a lasting memory, the remnants of Rick left a beautiful sunset on Tuesday night. Outposts would like to thank Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, for her reports and photos before, during and after the storm.

Now if only the marlin will cooperate!

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: A setting sun illuminates the sky above and beyond the Old Lighthouse landmark. Credit: Tracy Ehrenberg

Tropical Storm Rick alters course, may spare Cabo San Lucas area major damage

A tropical storm warning remains in effect in Cabo San Lucas and parts of Baja California Sur. But Tropical Storm Rick, now with maximum sustained winds of only 65 mph, has altered course considerably and its center is expected to pass well to the south of the peninsula.

This has Cabo San Lucas residents breathing a sigh of relief, but there is sad news: Authorities confirmed that a 16-year-old boy was killed Monday in the pounding surf at Medano Beach, which faces the famous arches at Land's End.

Huge waves continue to pound the beach and the storm surge has reached many of its hotel patios. The  Los Cabos International Airport remains open but travelers are advised to check with their carriers regarding possible delays or cancellations.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, says it has been raining steadily but lightly since Monday night, and there is little wind. The annual Bisbee's Black & Blue Marlin Tournament, which is the world's richest billfish competition, was scheduled to run Wednesday through Friday but probably will run as a two-day competition Thursday and Friday, as the port will remain closed through at least Wednesday.

Eric Brictson, owner of Gordo Banks Pangas, said today via e-mail: "The storm has really weakened, but it is still raining lightly at this time and we are out of work during a very busy time. We do assume we will be able to start operations back up on Thursday morning."

At 8 a.m. Tuesday the storm was located 200 miles south-southwest of Cabo San Lucas and traveling in a northeasterly direction. According to the National Hurricane Center its center is expected to pass Cabo San Lucas tonight or early Wednesday on a course toward mainland Mexico.

Rainfall will be heavy and flooding is possible in some areas.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Storm watchers run from the deck at a hotel on Medano Beach as a large wave overtakes their perch. Credit: Paul J. Richards / AFP / Getty Images

Hurricane Rick weakens further as it approaches Baja California Sur

 

*Updated with sharper image

Hurricane Rick continues to weaken as it approaches the Cabo San Lucas area at the tip of Baja California. The National Hurricane Center at 2 p.m. Monday issued an advisory stating that maximum sustained winds are down to about 100 mph and that Rick is now a Category 2 hurricane.

The storm is located 325 miles south-southwest of Cabo San Lucas and its predicted course has changed since the morning forecast. The center of the storm is now expected to merely skirt Cabo San Lucas, perhaps sparing the region major damage, as it travels toward the northeast in the direction of mainland Mexico. It will pass Cabo San Lucas as a tropical storm late Tuesday or early Wednesday.

The accompanying photo was taken during the lunch hour from the Cabo San Lucas marina, where many boats have been transported to land. Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, e-mailed the photo to Outposts and said the weather, while gloomy, is eerily calm and that the size of the surf has actually dropped.

That's a cruise ship in the distance. There had been two moored outside the marina this morning, but one has left. It remains unclear whether the ship in the photo, apparently with passengers still aboard, is going to ride out the storm at anchor.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo courtesy of Pisces Sportfishing

Hurricane Rick, still 'a major storm,' already being felt in Cabo San Lucas area

Hurricane Rick is tracking toward southern Baja California and although it continues to weaken, the National Hurricane Center still refers to it as "a major storm," and residents and tourists throughout the region are bracing for the worst.

Rick, which on Saturday packed 180-mph winds and was the second strongest eastern North Pacific hurricane on record, is now a Category 3 storm with maximum sustained winds of 115 mph. At 8 a.m. Monday its center was located 375 miles south-southwest of Cabo San Lucas. It's expected to make landfall in that area, still as a hurricane, late Tuesday or early Wednesday.

One man reportedly was killed Sunday after being swept into the water and jetty rocks in San Jose del Cabo.

Flooding and high winds are expected. Airline travel probably will be disrupted. Plans are being made to relocate residents in vulnerable areas to shelters. Fishing fleet operators and private boat owners are still working to remove vessels from marinas or at least into sheltered areas within marinas.

In Cabo San Lucas, this includes more than 100 wealthy yacht owners entered in the Bisbee's Black & Blue Marlin Tournament, which was scheduled to begin Wednesday. Some have already fled toward Southern California. The three-day tournament, which offers about $3 million in prize money, might become a one-day affair on Friday -- if the storm passes quickly enough.

"Please keep your fingers crossed that Hurricane Rick does not hurt us too bad," Capt. George Landrum of Fly Hooker Sportfishing implored in a fishing report issued Monday morning. "We just had one huge noisy squall come, part of the feeder bands. Cats and dogs [are] hiding everywhere."

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, wrote Monday on the fleet's blog: "Heavy rain fell for a while and wind picked up to about 25 mph, with some thunder and more lightning. We all thought, 'Wow, it's here already,' but this was just an isolated outer thunderstorm."

Hurricane Rick 'extremely dangerous' and tracking toward Baja California

Hurricane Rick, which as of 8 p.m. Saturday was located 295 miles southwest of Manzanillo on the Mexican mainland, is packing 180-mph winds and is predicted to make landfall on the southern Baja California peninsula at midweek.

It's the second-strongest North Pacific hurricane on record, next to Linda in 1997, and residents in the state of Baja California Sur are cautioned to closely monitor its progress. The National Hurricane Center is referring to Rick as "an extremely dangerous" Category 5 storm. 

Satellite images show that Rick has continued to strengthen as it travels toward the west-northwest at 14 mph. It's expected to turn gradually toward the north Monday. It's ultimate track, if the prediction is accurate, will place it over southern Baja sometime Wednesday.

Hopefully its course will alter and spare residents and tourists a direct hit. Tourists with plans to fly to the Los Cabos and La Paz areas next week should consult their airlines about possible cancellations or delays.

The forecast does not look good for the annual Bisbee's Black & Blue Marlin Tournament in Cabo San Lucas, scheduled to begin Tuesday.

-- Pete Thomas 

Map is courtesy of National Hurricane Center

To follow this blog on Twitter please visit @latimesoutposts

Cabo San Lucas port closed due to Tropical Storm Patricia

Tropical Storm Patricia, at 11 this morning, was centered about 100 miles southeast of the tip of Baja California, and a tropical storm warning remained in effect for Cabo San Lucas and the southern portion of the peninsula.

An advisory issued by the National Hurricane Center stated that the storm was becoming less organized as it traveled to the north-northeast at about 7 mph but still had maximum sustained winds of 60 mph. Patricia is expected to veer to the northwest later today and start  tracking to the west by Thursday.

It will make its closest approach to Baja, southwest of Cabo San Lucas, tonight and Wednesday.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing in Cabo San Lucas, said the port is closed today despite reasonably calm seas and a mixture of clouds and sunshine. It rained earlier, and the National Hurricane Center predicted 1 to 3 inches would fall in the region.

Los Cabos Billfish Tournament is scheduled to start Wednesday.

-- Pete Thomas

Image: National Hurricane Center

Tropical Storm Patricia takes aim on Cabo San Lucas area

Tropical storm Patricia is not expected to become a hurricane, but its center is expected to brush the tip of the Baja California peninsula near Cabo San Lucas on Tuesday afternoon. It then is expected to track to the west and weaken.

Patricia, which at 11 a.m. Monday was 245 miles south of Cabo San Lucas, will deliver heavy rain and wind gusts to about 60 knots. The Mexican government has issued a Tropical Storm watch extending north just past La Paz.

The storm will briefly interrupt fishing off Cabo, where marlin, tuna and dorado have been cooperative for anglers during the past week, according to Capt. George Landrum of Fly Hooker Sportfishing.

The annual Bisbee's Black and Blue Marlin Tournament -- the world's richest billfish competition -- is Oct. 20-24 off Cabo San Lucas.

-- Pete Thomas

Image showing predicted five-day track of Tropical Storm Patricia was issued at 11 a.m. Monday by the National Hurricane Center

La Paz fishing report: Winds hamper effort but anglers scratch for tuna, dorado

Tailhunter International today recaps a stormy, rainy week of fishing in the Sea of Cortez in the La Paz region of Baja California.

In essence the effort was hampered by nasty weather and fishing was slow, but  improved later in the week.

"It was so rough we had some folks actually get seasick on us, which is a rarity because it’s normally so calm especially this time of the year," Jonathan Roldan said via e-mail. "As well, the winds didn’t do us any favors as far as the bite was concerned."

The wind diminished these past couple of days and fishing for tuna and dorado improved slightly. "The tuna bite outside of Muertos Bay and Las Arenas came back on the chew with fish running between 15 and 30 pounds and schools of smaller dorado ripping through the chum," Roldan reported.

"For our La Paz boats, the winds started coming from the north and that really made it difficult.  It was just unseasonably windy for October, but then again, this whole year has been a paradox."

His La Paz fleet traveled extensively but found schools of dorado at various locations, and the catch average was three to six fish per boat. Most of the dorado were small.

Outposts always appreciates an honest report.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Bruce Dodge from La Canada displays yellowfin tuna caught off Las Arenas on live bait while fishing with Tailhunter International's Las Arenas fleet. Credit: Jonathan Roldan

Large tuna, bull dorado on tap for anglers at Baja California's East Cape

Louisiana angler Todd Winkler (pictured) is 6 feet, 4 inches tall, and the dorado he caught Sunday in the Sea of Cortez comes up to his nose.

The bull weighed struck a black-and-purple marlin lure and took about 20 minutes to land aboard Vista Sea Sport's Jen Wren in the East Cape region of Baja California.

"We went tuna fishing but the wind blew and they were hard to find so we had to settle for this dorado along with a smaller one and a sailfish," said Mark Rayor, owner of the fishing/diving business.

Fishing in the remote region halfway between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz has been productive, and gorilla-size tuna have been the primary draw.

"Hundred-pound tuna are coming to the beach daily," reports John Ireland, owner of Rancho Leonero Resort. "The 100-pound fish are very powerful; two hours to land on 80-pound test."

A report on Friday from the Van Wormer Resorts reads: "We did see over 400 yellowfin tuna landed this week ranging in size from 15-80 pounds.  Most of the tuna are still to the south near Cabo Pulmo and Los Frailes."

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Todd Winkler displays bull dorado caught Monday aboard the Jen Wren in the Sea of Cortez. Credit: Mark Rayor

Cabo San Lucas anglers hooking up with mostly tuna (some very large), dorado

Heather DeRamus, right, obviously had time to freshen up after her three-hour battle with a 200-pound tuna Wednesday at Jaime Bank beyond Cabo San Lucas.

Why? Because the weather is blazing off Land's End and nobody could look so cool after such a monumental battle with such a stubbornly powerful game fish.

Anyway, congratulations are in order for the angler from Richmond, Texas, who was aboard La Brisa from the Pisces Sportfishing fleet.

Fishing is not great off Cabo but no Pisces anglers were shut out during the past week, said Tracy Ehrenberg, the fleet's general manager.

She said tuna fishing has been consistent, though, with vessel catch rates ranging from one to 10 fish per day. Several have come in at 80 pounds or more. DeRamus hooked her tuna on a black-and-green lure.

Dorado, or mahi-mahi, also are active and 53% of Pisces charters caught the vibrantly-colored game fish. Largest aboard a Pisces boat weighed 55 pounds.

Striped marlin, blue marlin and sailfish are biting sporadically. Most of the fishing effort is on the Pacific side of the Baja California peninsula.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Heather DeRamus poses with a 200-pound yellowfin tuna caught Wednesday off Cabo San Lucas. Capt. Nicolas Winkler, right, and deckhand Salvador Flores pose with the angler. Credit: Pisces Sportfishing

Cabo San Lucas waters yield 525-pound blue marlin

Tournament season is close at hand off Cabo San Lucas and already anglers are trying to figure out where the big billfish are lurking.

The high banks beyond Punta Gorda in the Sea of Cortez might be one area. That's where local resident Chris Fuller last Monday landed a 525-pound blue marlin that inhaled a live skipjack tuna cast out as bait.

It was the largest marlin captured in the region in months.

As for general fishing, yellowfin tuna remain abundant and some boats are posting double-digit catches. They range from 15 to 60 pounds, reports Tracy Ehrenberg at Pisces Sportfishing.

However, the fish are widely scattered and those high scores are the exception, according to Capt. George  Landrum of Fly Hooker Sportfishing.

Landrum reports that striped marlin appear to be gathering at the Finger bank north of Cabo San Lucas on the Pacific side of the peninsula. He had not heard of any blue or black marlin catches this week, but fall is the peak season for these species.

Dorado and wahoo catches have been sporadic.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Anglers aboard Spartacus pose with 525-pound blue marlin landed by Chris Fuller off Punta Gorda in the Sea of Cortez.

Cabo San Lucas anglers find tuna cooperative in wake of Hurricane Jimena

Cabo San Lucas anglers wasted little time getting back into the swing of things in the wake of Hurricane Jimena, which is now a tropical depression far up the Baja California peninsula.

Fishing wasn't great Thursday, the first day boats were sent out since the storm began to arrive last weekend. But most anglers aboard the few boats that were sent out were able to catch yellowfin tuna, according to reports. And some of the tuna were behemoths.

Pictured above are Tony and Steve Clement, left to right, from Los Gatos and San Louis Obispo, with a 120-pound tuna they caught aboard Bill Collector after a 45-minute fight. Bill Collector, a 32-foot Cabo sportfisher, is booked through Pisces Sportfishing.

Meanwhile, mid-Baja towns such as Mulege, Santa Rosalia, Loreto and Ciudad Constitucion, have begun to dig out after being ravaged by Jimena. The storm tore roofs from houses, downed power lines and caused extensive flooding. At least one death has been reported.

For them, things also will get back to normal. But it will require a lot more time and effort.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo courtesy of Pisces Sportfishing

Damage reports grow in mid-Baja in wake of tropical storm Jimena

Baja Bush Pilots has been monitoring the damage caused by hurricane/tropical storm Jimena in northern Baja  California Sur. The situation, as reported earlier Thursday on Outposts, is bleak for many residents and disheartening for Baja aficionados who have grown fond of the region and its people.

Here's the midday update from the Bush Pilots, based not only on flyovers but reports from residents --before phone service went out, and in one instance a ham radio -- and members close to the situation:

-- Matancitas (Lopez Mateos): Almost 90% of structures are down or severely damaged. No water, power or telephone service.

-- Ciudad Constitucion: Most roofs are gone; severe damage to 70% of the buildings. No water, power or telephone service.

-- Loreto: No power or telephone service. Lines are down, trees are down. Buildings are damaged. The airport is closed.

-- Mulege: No water, power or telephone service. Water crested three feet above the bridge. Water was 2 feet deep in the fire station, which would mean that almost the entire town was flooded.  There have been reports of loss of life. (Outposts has learned at least one man has died, according to authorities.)

-- Punta Chivato: One person indicates that the wind was over 100 mph before the indicator broke.  Damage to almost everything.  We should hear about the condition of the strip sometime today.

-- Santa Rosalia: Wall of water came down the canyon and through the town, washed cars, etc., into the ocean.

Based on these reports, mid-Baja would seem to be disaster central. The Red Cross will have its hands full over the next several days. And a team from the U.S. Aid Disaster Assistance humanitarian group reportedly is in the area. Hopefully, the worst has passed.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Residents look at lamp posts knocked down by Hurricane Jimena in Puerto San Carlos, Baja California Sur. Credit: Ronaldo Schemidt/AFP/Getty Images

Tropical storm Jimena causing extensive flooding, damage in Mulege area

Tropical storm Jimena, with maximum sustained winds of 45 mph, is weakening but causing extensive flooding in the Mulege and Santa Rosalia areas on the eastern coast of Baja California. Nearby Loreto reportedly is without electricity because of  a damaged power station.

Jimena made landfall as a Category 2 hurricane near San Carlos in the Magdalena Bay area, then swept across the peninsula to Santa Rosalia and Mulege, whose riverbanks have swelled. The popular surf destination San Juanico (Scorpion Bay) on the Pacific coast also has received extensive damage.

These areas have fared worse than Cabo San Lucas fared. Just a few days ago, that resort city at Land's End was bracing for a Category 5 hurricane.

Cabo San Lucas, East Cape and La Paz escaped with no major damage. In fact, sport-fishing boats and even a few dive boats from these areas embarked Thursday for the first time since the storm began to make its presence felt last weekend.

Reports from Mulege, however, indicate extensive flooding. A new hospital's floors are under water. A bridge leading into Mulege is damaged. And at least one person, an elderly man, has died.

Farther south, in the wake of Jimena, damage is still being assessed. In the Pacific port city of San Carlos, five commercial fishing boats were damaged or sunk. One of the vessels that sunk was the Ensenada, with 300 tons of tuna and other fish in its hold.

Jimena is expected to become a tropical depression later today, according to the National Hurricane Center. But rainfall will be significant as the storm tracks back across the peninsula toward the Pacific.

Meanwhile, on the southerly horizon, another disturbance has emerged (pictured). The yellow coloring implies there is less than a 30% chance it will develop into a tropical cyclone. That's good, because the region could use a respite.

-- Pete Thomas

Graphic: National Hurricane Center

Note: To follow this blog on Twitter please visit @latimesoutposts

Cabo San Lucas, East Cape get off easy as Hurricane Jimena moves north

With Hurricane Jimena now well to the north, the official storm warning has been lifted from the Cabo San Lucas area and most people are discovering how fortunate they were.

(A hurricane warning remains in effect from Agua Blanca to Punta Abreojos on the west coast of Baja California, and from La Paz to Mulege on the east coast of the peninsula.)

"Everything is back to normal, the sea is calm, no wind, no rain, only minor damage like a few trees down," Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager at Pisces Sportfishing, said via e-mail.

The accompanying image was captured Wednesday at sunrise by Mark Rayor, owner of Vista Sea Sport, at the East Cape, 100 miles north of Cabo San Lucas along the Sea of Cortez.

Rayor said the wind never exceeded 25 mph. "I'm not complaining because we've had our share of bad storms," he added. "But on normal bad days we've had stronger winds than this, and the surf pounds as hard."

Rayor is sending a dive boat out Thursday. Cabo San Lucas and East Cape fleets willl send fishing boats out Thursday.

Hurricane Jimena now west of Cabo San Lucas, making its presence felt

This just in from the National Hurricane Center: Hurricane Jimena is now opposite the Baja California Peninsula, 90 miles west-northwest of Cabo San Lucas.

The storm, with maximum sustained winds of 115 mph, is traveling to the west-northwest at 13 mph. The center of the storm is expected to make landfall at Magdalena Bay early Wednesday.

I don't have much new information since the last report but L.A. Times correspondent Ken Ellingwood's story on the hurricane has been posted on the company website.

Clearly, wind and rain have become major issues in and around Cabo San Lucas. The accompanying images, captured late Tuesday afternoon, are provided by Glenn Ehrenberg, son of Marco and Tracy Ehrenberg, who run Pisces Sportfishing.

The top photo shows the tidal surge Medano Beach (Playa el Medano), where popular on-the-sand-restaurants such as the Office and Mango Deck enjoy robust business on calmer days. 

Below are some fallen trees, showing how powerful hurricane-force winds can be.

Outposts will attempt to assess the damage in the tourist areas of Baja California Sur on Wednesday morning.

-- Pete Thomas

Hurricane Jimena weakens slightly as it nears Baja California

Hurricane Jimena has been downgraded to a Category 3 storm with 125-mph winds as it approaches Baja California.

Because it will pass well to the west of Cabo San Lucas, it probably will not cause major damage to well-built structures in that sprawling resort city at Baja's tip.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, said from her home on the Pacific side of the peninsula that winds had not surpassed 50 mph as of 3 p.m.

"I've been calmly cooking lunch in the kitchen, and there's nothing flying around or anything," Ehrenberg said, adding that the television, Internet and telephone were still working.

Ehrenberg did not downplay the seriousness of the storm, citing the potential for flood and wind damage in areas where poorer people live and homes aren't well situated or well constructed.

Thirty miles away in San Jose del Cabo, electricity was intermittent. "Skies are not as dark as earlier, though is some directions you can see it is raining hard," said Eric Brictson, who runs the Gordo Banks Pangas fishing business. "Surf is 15 to 20 feet. The waves are already coming up into the panga launch ramp area and by now that might already be unusable without major repair work.

"Streets are a mess and we will definitely have a lot of cleaning to do when the system moves further north."

Flooding reportedly has made portions of the highway leading to the East Cape region and La Paz impassable. But aside from street flooding, those regions have not been especially hard hit. 

Mark Rayor, who runs a scuba center and charters a fishing boat out of Buena Vista, described the storm so far as "a few puffs of wind and and about 4 inches of rain."

In fact, some are already looking beyond the storm to brighter days ahead. "We expect to have our fleet fishing again starting on Thursday," said  Eddie Dalmau, a spokesman for Van Wormer Resorts in the East Cape area.

That might be overly optimistic -- the storm's center is still 100 miles southwest of the peninsula -- but time will tell. To be sure, it ought to be an interesting and perhaps very noisy night.

-- Pete Thomas

Graphic courtesy of the National Hurricane Center

Photo: Waves generated by Hurricane Jimena crash on the Pacific side of the Baja California peninsula Tuesday afternoon. Credit: Glenn Ehrenberg

Hurricane Jimena begins wreaking havoc in and beyond Los Cabos area

Hurricane Jimena is weakening slightly as it approaches Baja California, but it remains a Category 4 storm and though its center is 100 miles south-southwest of Cabo San Lucas, it is beginning to wreak considerable havoc there and throughout the state of Baja California Sur.

Visiting tourists -- many of them fishermen and surfers -- who chose to stay and ride out the storm are doing so indoors. Some resorts have boarded their windows. Streets are flooded, and rain is torrential at times. The Los Cabos airport was closed at last check, and flight service has been disrupted. Those with scheduled flights over the next few days are urged to consult their carrier.

"The weather is steadily deteriorating," Eric Brictson, owner of Gordo Banks Pangas in San Jose del Cabo, said Tuesday morning via e-mail. "Winds are now starting to gust out of the east and rainfall has been steady to extremely hard. Have not even been down to check the beach today, I hear that the surf is near 20 feet. We are bracing for the worse yet to come, probably this evening. I am sure there will be some heavy flood damage."

Hotel guests are certainly faring better than inland residents, particularly the poor who live in areas prone to flooding. Thousands reportedly have been evacuated to shelters.

At the East Cape north of Cabo San Lucas on the Sea of Cortez, well beyond of Jimena's projected path, hotel owners and guests are in wait-and-see mode. Gary Barnes-Webb, foreman at the Rancho Leonero Resort, said he sent some guests home before the storm made its presence felt, but about 20 guests remain.

Cabo San Lucas area begins to feel impact of Hurricane Jimena

 

At 8 a.m. today, the center of Hurricane Jimena, with maximum sustained winds of 145 mph, was  140 miles south-southwest of Cabo San Lucas and churning toward the Baja California peninsula at about 12 mph.

The accompanying image was captured just after 8 a.m. from the area of the old lighthouse at Cabo Falso on the Pacific side of the peninsula north of Cabo San Lucas.

Rain comes and goes and wave heights are steadily increasing. Cabo San Lucas is no longer in the projected path of the hurricane. Neither are any of the towns and fishing resorts along the Sea of Cortez to and slightly beyond La Paz.

The center of the storm is predicted to brush Magdalena Bay on the Pacific side early Wednesday and make landfall north of that port city later in the day.

The Mexican government has extended a hurricane warning northward on the Pacific side of the peninsula from Cabo San Lucas to Punta Abreojos, and along the gulf side to Mulege.

Rainfall is expected to total  between 5 to 10 inches in most areas and possibly 15 inches in isolated areas, according to the National Hurricane Center. 

Jimena has subtly changed course a few times over the past few days. Outposts will provide updates as warranted.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Waves generated by Hurricane Jimena crash beyond Cabo Falso on the Pacific side of the Baja California peninsula. Credit: Glenn Ehrenberg

Note: To follow this blog on Twitter please visit @latimes.com

Hurricane Jimena approaching Baja; will it prove worthy of the hype?

*Updated with new forecast that places Cabo San Lucas outside the hurricane's cone, or projected path

Above is a 2 p.m. Monday view from the webcam stationed at Pisces Sportfishing in Cabo San Lucas, overlooking the marina and its entrance. (Note: webcam might not be working during the storm.)

You can see how many boats have been removed from their slips, and how calm the area is a day before the arrival to the region of Hurricane Jimena, a Category 5 storm expected to skirt Cabo and much of Baja California Sur before making landfall 150 miles to the north Wednesday morning.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of the fishing fleet, states on the the company blog: "From all the hype on TV you would think we were about to get swept of the face of the earth. Not to be flippant, but getting overly anxious about tropical weather at this time of year is pointless."

That might be partially true, and Ehrenberg has been through dozens of hurricanes, so she should know. To be sure, Jimena's track appears to have shifted subtly enough to alleviate concerns of widespread wind-caused damage in Cabo and in fishing villages on the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula, stretching to about La Paz.

However, it's an unusually large storm for the Eastern Pacific, with maximum sustained winds of about 155 mph, and it has steadily intensified over the past 24 hours. (The National Hurricane Center's 2 p.m. update  listed Jimena as a Category 4 storm, but the Mexican Navy has since classified it as a Category 5 disturbance.)

Rainfall amounts in the southern half of Baja California Sur and in parts of western Mexico will range from 5-10 inches, possibly much more in some areas, according to the National Hurricane Center.

And the storm's track is somewhat uncertain, so in this case, perhaps, the hype is warranted.

(Note: The 5 p.m. Monday update from the National Hurricane Center shows Cabo San Lucas o be outside the hurricane's cone, or projected path. Outposts will post a separate update Tuesday morning.)

-- Pete Thomas

 

Hurricane Jimena intensifies, prompting warnings in Baja California Sur

 

*Updated with new forecast that places Cabo San Lucas outside the hurricane's cone, or projected path

As Southern Californians continue to deal with fire and smoke, residents and tourists in Baja California Sur are bracing for the arrival of Hurricane Jimena, an intense storm that might cause widespread flooding and damage.

The 8 a.m. Monday advisory from the National Hurricane Center positioned the eye of the storm 355 miles south-southeast of Cabo San Lucas. It's traveling to the northwest with maximum sustained winds of about 145 mph, making it a Category 4 hurricane. It will make landfall in the Magdalena Bay area late Tuesday or very early Wednesday.

The government of Mexico has issued a Hurricane Warning for the southern half of the state. That means hurricane conditions are likely within the next 24 hours.

Beachfront hotels are shoring up and fishing fleet crews from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz have been pulling boats from the water or moving them to safer areas. Many guests at Rancho Leonero Resort on the East Cape flew home before their scheduled departure dates. Guests at nearby Hotel Punta Colorada were moved to Hotel Palmas de Cortez. Both are Van Wormer Resorts properties.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing in Cabo San Lucas, said Monday morning that seas were calm and the port was still open. In fact, Pisces has two charters today. Ehrenberg expects the typical chaos in advance of a hurricane -- long lines at gas stations, etc. -- to ensue throughout the day.

Mark Rayor, who runs Vista Sea Sport in Buena Vista in the East Cape, took delivery of a Cabo 35 fishing boat Friday in La Paz. A day after he drove the boat south to the East Cape, he drove it back to the protected harbor in La Paz. "The people I bought it from told me it was a lucky boat," he said. "I'm hoping they were right."

If there's a silver lining, the region is drought-stricken and parched, and Jimena is already delivering showers. Said Eric Brictson, owner of Gordo Banks Pangas: "It has been a while since we have been hit, so this could be the one one that finally brings some much-needed rainfall."

(Note: The 5 p.m. Monday update from the National Hurricane Center shows Cabo San Lucas and fishing resorts on the Sea of Cortez to about La Paz to be outside the hurricane's cone, or projected path. That is subject to change, however. Outposts will post a separate update Tuesday morning.)

--Pete Thomas

Graphic courtesy of the National Hurricane Center

Photo: In the calm before the storm, fishermen in the East Cape display the day's catch of dorado, or mahi-mahi. Credit: Van Wormer Resorts

Cabo San Lucas area braces for Hurricane Jimena but will welcome the rain

*Update: Jimena has strengthened since this report was posted. As of 8 p.m. Sunday it had sustained winds of 145 mph. Also, it's now expected to make landfall south of Magdalena Bay. A separate item with further updates will be posted by mid-morning Monday.

If you've scheduled a fishing trip to Cabo San Lucas early this week, bring your umbrella and plan on spending time indoors.

Hurricane Jimena, off mainland Mexico, has intensified overnight and is classified as a Category 4 storm, with sustained winds of about 135 mph.  At 8 a.m. Sunday its center was located 515 miles south-southeast of Cabo and was tracking to the northwest (see graphic below) at about 9 mph.

The National Hurricane Center predicts it will skirt the Baja California peninsula before making landfall Tuesday night in the Magdalena Bay area. It will deliver plenty of much-needed rain, but might also cause extensive flooding.

The region desperately needs rain. Cattle are perishing and some residents in Los Cabos and throughout Baja California Sur are being given running water only once or twice a week. (Running water is not an issue for hotel guests.)

The storm might also lead to temporary port closures. Eric Bricston, who runs Gordo Banks Pangas out of San Jose del Cabo, said via e-mail: "This storm does look dangerous and most likely on Monday morning we will have to haul all of the pangas [skiffs] out of the marina docking area up to the houses. A lot of heavy work, but it is better to be safe than sorry."

That's a common refrain at this time of year.

-- Pete Thomas

 

Photo of the famous arch off Cabo San Lucas is by Geraldine Wilkins

Graphic is courtesy of the National Hurricane Center

Yellowfin tuna appearance in Sea of Cortez better late than never

Anglers off San Jose del Cabo and the East Cape are encountering a welcome visitor to these areas of the Sea of Cortez: yellowfin tuna.

The popular game fish, a summertime staple, has been conspicuously absent for most of this summer.

They aren't as abundant as they typically are at this time of year, but they're unusually large. At the Iman Bank, reached by the San Jose fleets, they're averaging 60 to 80 pounds, reports Eric Brictson, who runs Gordo Banks Pangas.

Much larger tuna "could be seen feeding on the surface and would come up to the chummed sardinas," Brictson adds.

The tuna are mixed with dorado, providing anglers with delectable variety.

Beyond the East Cape to the north, the yellowfin appear to be more numerous but slightly smaller. John Ireland, owner of Rancho Leonero Resort, reports a 25- to 40-pound average and says the best bite is at the Las Arenas drop-off.

Dorado are providing the most consistent offshore action throughout this vast region.

Ireland reports a solid inshore pompano bite, with fish to about 10 pounds.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Brian Brictson, 12, and dad Eric pose with a 75-pound yellowfin tuna caught after an hourlong battle at the Iman Bank, where tuna and dorado are keeping anglers busy. Credit: Gordo Banks Pangas

La Paz fishing picks up as wahoo, tuna and dorado take up slack

Wahoo, tuna and dorado are active again in the Sea of Cortez near La Paz, reports Jonathan Roldan of Tailhunter International.

"Not only did the dorado find their way back into the feeding mode, but even more importantly for our Tailhunter Las Arenas fleet, the tuna and wahoo came back strong," Roldan exclaims.

The yellowfin tuna are running 10-30 pounds and biting close to the beach in the remote Las Arenas area, where the deep blue water is almost literally a stone's throw from the sandy beach. The tuna are biting on live bait, slow-trolled dead bait and iron lures.

"Light-tackle anglers had a blast because the tuna were mixed in with even harder-charging bullish bonito and big skipjack, so it was nonstop action between the three species," Roldan continues.

Further spicing up the action are sleek and speedy (and delectable) wahoo, which are biting on dark crankbaits and standard wahoo lures, and running 30-50 pounds. Many wahoo were lost but most anglers fishing for the sharp-toothed game fish are at least getting strikes.

Dorado are averaging 10-30 pounds. Marlin (offshore) and roosterfish (inshore) are biting only sporadically.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Shannon Aurand is all smiles while holding a wahoo while posing with Capt. Jorge of the Tailhunter fleet. Aurand caught 10 species in 10 days. Credit: Tailhunter International

Anglers off Baja's East Cape encountering marlin, sailfish and much more

The following is a detailed recap of fishing off Baja California's East Cape region -- from tranquil Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort -- courtesy of veteran outdoors writer and occasional Outposts contributor Steve Carson:

Earlier this month saw anglers focusing strictly on the “money fish” while competing in the East Cape version of the high-dollar Bisbee's tournament. The past week has seen local streets go quiet again, and the availability of almost all of the area’s fish species makes choosing which to pursue somewhat difficult.

On the billfish front, striped marlin and sailfish were present in equal numbers, with sailfish most abundant off the Punta Arena lighthouse, and stripers up offshore from Punta Pescadero. Daryl Brauckman, 14, of Austin, Texas, caught his first-ever sailfish on a dead ballyhoo aboard the Tres Hermanos out of Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort.

“Catching my first sailfish was very exciting,” recalled Brauckman. “I was a little worried that I was missing the beginning of ninth-grade football practice when we came down here, but it’s great to get a different view of things.”

Few roosterfish had been seen for the previous two weeks, but this writer caught and released five of the wily pez gallos up to about 20 pounds on live bait right at Buena Vista aboard the resort's panga, Mosca.

El Nino forecast stirs up recollections of the crazy 1997-98 phenomenon

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's Climate Prediction Center last week issued a report stating: "While there is disagreement on the eventual strength of El Niño, nearly all of the dynamical models predict a moderate-to-strong El Niño during the Northern Hemisphere Winter 2009-10."

If the models are accurate, we're in for some crazy times -- some good, some bad -- along the West Coast.

The last powerful El Niño event was 1997-98. Some might recall the flooding associated with abundant rainfall, but surfers, skiers, snowboarders, fishermen and marine mammal enthusiasts might remember the massive swells, extreme snowfall, visits by exotic species and a devastating impact on seals and sea lions.

Here are a few random snapshots from that episode:

Sailor Zac Sunderland forced to seek shelter from developing storm

A disturbance in the eastern Pacific is expected to develop into the season's first tropical storm and it's forcing Zac Sunderland to sail for shelter at the Mexican port city of Manzanillo.

Sunderland, 17, who is on the last leg of an around-the-world solo adventure, had hoped to make it home by the end of the month but will spend at least four days in Manzanillo and that will delay his arrival at  Marina del Rey until perhaps the first weekend in July.

Zac's mom said he wanted to continue on a course for Cabo San Lucas but that could be perilous. "He needs to duck for cover. He has got to get into a harbor; there's no question about it," said Surfline's Sean Collins, a forecaster who monitors conditions in a region that he says is becoming increasingly active.

The organizing storm is expected to veer to the north and ultimately the northeast toward land, perhaps making landfall near Puerto Vallarta, which is 130 miles north of Manzanillo.

The red patch in the bottom graphic shows the disturbance, which features strong winds and thunderstorms. It's southwest of Manzanillo and trailing Zac's 36-foot Intrepid, which presently is taking wind on the nose.

Stay tuned for updates...

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Zac Sunderland aboard Intrepid, before his departure from Marina del Rey last June. Credit: Al Seib/Los Angeles Times.

Graphic courtesy of the National Hurricane Center

Southern Baja fishing update: Blue marlin, yellowfin tuna reach East Cape

Striped marlin remain the primary target for anglers throughout most of Baja California Sur, but with summerlike weather has arrived summertime species, notably blue marlin and yellowfin tuna.

From Rancho Leonero on the East Cape, resort owner John Ireland boasts of the blue marlin presence: "I personally got spooled on a 300- to 400-pounder. Hotel anglers released seven this week, from 200-300 pounds. All blind strikes on lures, blue and white. Flying fish colors working best."

Ireland's report is too glowing to be true; he states wide-open fishing for just about every species. But fishing clearly is very good and much better than in the Cabo San Lucas area to the south.

The yellowfin tuna, Ireland adds, are being found beneath porpoises and are being caught mostly on trolled hoochies.They're weighing to about 40 pounds.

As for the summerlike weather, it reached 102 degrees last Thursday in Cabo San Lucas and cooled only slightly over the weekend. The fishing action has been in the Sea of Cortez because of off-color water on the Pacific side of the Baja peninsula.

Striped marlin are less cooperative that they were in previous weeks but the average is about one per boat, according to Capt. George Landrum  of Fly Hooker Sportfishing. 

Landrum says yellowfin are being caught only sporadically by trollers, and that dorado fishing has improved but is not wide open.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, adds: "We're pretty excited about the wahoo right now, as in the last eight days we have had three over 70 pounds, which is a size we have not seen in a several years."

The Cabo fleets have not experienced an influx of blue marlin, so somehow the mighty billfish swam past Cabo to the East Cape region without being detected.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Striped marlin on the hook surfaces off the East Cape region of Baja California Sur. Credit: Jack Nilson

Putting Acapulco shooting in perspective in wake of news reports

News item: Shootout between outlaws and soldiers at a hillside mansion in the Mexican tourism town of Acapulco leaves 16 gunmen and two soldiers dead and causes the evacuation of tourists from a nearby strip of hotels. Media outlets gobble the story. CNN's Anderson Cooper on Tuesday night asks a global audience: "Is anywhere in the country safe, if this place isn't?" He also labels Acapulco "another town gripped in fear."

Reaction: CNN is intent on getting the most out of its "The War Next Door" theme, but this story begs some perspective. The shootout occurred in a safe house for drug cartel members, not in a hotel, and no tourists were reported to be caught in the crossfire. Acapulco is no longer a popular tourist destination for Americans or Canadians. Surfers visiting the state of Guerrero go straight to Puerto Escondido, to the south, or to the beaches north of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, to the north. Fishermen favor Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo.

Surely, if any of the Hollywood stars who helped make Acapulco famous were still alive, they'd stay away from Acapulco too. It has brutal traffic issues and has long been known to harbor unsavory cartel types. As reported Monday in the L.A. Times, "The area where Saturday's shootout took place is home to budget motels and establishments whose glory peaked decades ago."

So it seems unfair to again toss a blanket over all of Mexico and imply that its drug war has landed in the heart of tourist zones. Cooper spoke of staying in Cabo San Lucas recently, "but in a guarded compound." Presumably he meant an upscale resort with security guards, which resorts have employed for years. It should be noted that Baja California Sur, which includes the Los Cabos area and the capital city of La Paz, has been the site of only one drug war-related killing this year, according to the Mexican newspaper, Excelsior, which keeps a running tab.

And as I type this from my Redondo Beach home office, there's a police helicopter flying overhead, looking for an alleged rapist who tied up his victim and dumped her at a nearby apartment complex. Cabo San Lucas, or anywhere in southern Baja, is sounding pretty good.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Acapulco, which these days caters largely to Mexican tourists, is in the news because of a deadly shooting Saturday, involving drug cartel members and soldiers. Credit: EPA/Marino de Valdez

 

Cabo San Lucas reports improved marlin activity and a 77-pound wahoo

Tourism is still painfully down in Cabo San Lucas and elsewhere in Mexico, but fishing apparently is picking up.

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing, just e-mailed to report that anglers aboard Ruthless caught three striped marlin and one of the largest wahoo caught this spring. The wahoo (pictured) weighed 77 pounds and was caught by Thomas McAlpin and son Eric (middle left and right), who are visiting from Madison, Ala.

They caught the speedy wahoo near Los Frailes in the Sea of Cortes.

On Thursday the Pisces report began with this summation: "Catches are beginning to creep up as water temperatures begin to climb and striped marlin were again our top catch this week. However it was a bit hit-and-miss as to where the marlin were located on any given day. The better days were towards the end of the week when stripers began to bite close to shore between a mile and a mile-and-a-half off of the arch and Solmar beach."

Wahoo photo courtesy of Pisces Sportfishing

Cabo San Lucas mystery catch piques the interest of scientists

Tracy Ehrenberg, general manager of Pisces Sportfishing in Cabo San Lucas says the mysterious-looking fish caught off the Mexican coast May 19 aboard Minerva IV looks like "a seal, crossed with a baby marlin, that swallowed a chicken ... it has feet!"

Scientists who have inspected photos have identified the specimen as a ratfish, or a chimaera. However, there are different types of chimaeras and it's not clear which type this is or whether it might be a type new to science.

Scientists at Moss Landing Marine Labs in Monterey believe, based on the accompanying photograph, that it's a black chimaera.

The bizarre-looking creature, which does have what looks like feet and little toes, is stored in a freezer at Pisces but soon will be under study in La Paz.

"None of the local fisherman had any idea of what it was, not even those that have spent their whole lives on the sea," Ehrenberg says. 

Ratfish are deep-water denizens that bottom-feed on small invertebrates. But the fish at Pisces was plucked from the surface 11 miles south of Cabo San Lucas after it had been spotted unsuccessfully trying to dive.

It perished in the bait receiver on the trip to port.

--Pete Thomas

Photo: Capt. Jose Ramon Alucano displays what might be an unknown species of ratfish, or a species new to science altogether. Credit: Pisces Sportfishing

Marlin, dorado, roosterfish and more tugging lines off southern Baja

Fishing from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz, on the Sea of Cortez, remains very good inshore and fair to good offshore, according to regional reports.

Jonathan Roldan of the La  Paz-based Tailhunter International e-mailed a few photos to Outposts, including the accompanying image showing Bill Richmond displaying an impressive roosterfish (soon to  be released) caught on a fly rod.

Roldan says a variety of species have kept anglers busy this past week, including marlin (more seen than hooked), dorado, wahoo, pargo, cabrilla, sierra mackerel and even tuna, which generally show much later in the season.

Outstanding inshore fishing continues farther south in the East Cape region, too, reports John Ireland from Rancho Leonero. "Outside has not been as consistent, with an on- and-off bite on big dorado and billfish," Ireland states.

Cabo San Lucas anglers, meanwhile, are targeting marlin and dorado mostly in the Sea of Cortez, while inshore fishing for smaller species on the Pacific side of the peninsula remains more productive. "I fished just to the north of the lighthouse on Friday and caught a 19-pound and a 13-pound pargo in the rocks," reports Capt. George Landrum of Fly Hooker Sportfishing.

Outposts will attempt to run a southern Baja fishing roundup at the beginning of each week.

— Pete Thomas

Photo: Bill Richmond displays a roosterfish caught on a fly rod. Credit: Courtesy of Jonathan Roldan

Cabo San Lucas, Mexico begging tourists to come back

The owner of Pisces Sportfishing in Cabo San Lucas e-mailed me the accompanying photo of her crew with the caption: "Come on down, everything is fine here, weather is fantastic and we are waiting to catch you some fish.”

Everything is not fine. The mega-resort community at the tip of Baja California is in dire straits, thanks to the same factors that affect tourism in all of Mexico: global recession, drug-related violence and the swine flu scare.

It doesn't matter that the latter two issues are localized in other areas. As far as many non-Mexicans are concerned, because of what they've seen on TV or read, the entire country has plague.

In Cabo, which was built initially around sportfishing, the main drag is all but deserted. Hotels are nearly empty. Cruise ships aren't coming. The number of flights have been reduced. Tracy Ehrenberg, longtime Pisces fleet owner and wife of a prominent politician, said the town is emptier than it was in the aftermath of the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist strikes and a subsequent devastating hurricane.

But tourist destinations throughout Mexico, as the worst of a flu-related heath crisis seems to have passed, are begging people to come back--and some are doing so imaginatively. 

Baja's East Cape marlin are plentiful but stubborn, and also finicky

Every now and then, an angler will hook into a fish that seems possessed. My brother Scott can attest to this: The striped marlin he baited, during a trip last week to Baja California Sur's East Cape region, rendered his left arm useless during a fight that lasted more than an hour.

In fact, he passed the marlin off to me and I tried for 20 minutes to get the beast to leader, then passed the rod to another angler in our group, whose relentless teasing ceased when he, too, failed to gain headway.

When a fourth angler finally got the striper to leader -- to our credit, the gear on our boat was not up for the task -- our deckhand estimated its weight at 210 pounds, and said that for some reason the marlin have been especially strong this early season.

They're also incredibly abundant; on one day alone we spotted more than 30 leaping marlin. But they're also line-shy, perhaps because there's so much natural prey in the southern Sea of Cortez.

So a typical offshore agenda is to try to bait sunning or leaping marlin, while searching for floating objects, which attract dorado, or mahi-mahi. If you're first to discover a floating object, chances are you'll have discovered a dorado bonanza.

Baja fishing expedition nets marlin and dorado, but no swine flu

Baja California Sur is famous for its big-game fishing, but also for brilliant sunrises, commonly enjoyed through bloodshot eyes of anglers as they sip coffee and ponder a new day's prospects.

I'd forgotten about this pre-fishing ritual while preparing for last week's vacation to Baja's remote East Cape region. I'd been busy thinking about swine flu and travel warnings, even though there had been no reported cases in the Mexican state.

My brother Scott and I journeyed on a nearly empty Alaska Airlines jet and spent five nights at Hotel Palmas de Cortez in Los Barriles, about 80 miles north of Cabo San Lucas on the Sea of Cortez. We saw no sign of sickness in the Los Cabos international airport, at the hotel or in town. But the Los Barriles populace was ailing: The area hotels were mostly vacant, the town seemingly deserted.

The swine flu scare, drug-related violence elsewhere in Mexico and the global recession have stifled tourism throughout the state. A fleet owner in Cabo San Lucas told me the slowdown is far worse than in the aftermath of the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist strikes. Many blame sensational news reporting.

We found, however, that aside from a lack of tourists little has changed. The East Cape is as tranquil as ever and game fish abound. We battled a powerful striped marlin and boated several dorado (more on the fishing in a later post). We relaxed poolside and caught reef fish from the beach. The unhurried pace was therapeutic.

Swine flu hysteria spanning global outdoors realm; is any place safe?

The swine flu scare is now global and some of the world's premier outdoors destinations have become swept up in the hysteria.

So if you're a bird-watcher with plans to visit, say, Costa Rica, you may wonder whether it's safe. Of course it is, but there are no guarantees, just as there are none while staying home.

People are contracting the virus in Southern California and New York and in U.S. points between. The virus reportedly has been detected in Australia, New Zealand, England, Canada, Spain and numerous other countries.

There are wonderful destinations where it has not yet surfaced, among them Hawaii, Cuba and Costa Rica. Oops, check that: Two hours ago the Tico Times reported that "a 21-year-old Costa Rican woman has become the country's first case of swine flu and is in stable condition."

This does not mean that tourists should avoid Costa Rica, just as they should not strike every single location in Mexico off their travel list. But don't step onto the airplane with a cough, or you might be turned away after you land. Seriously. It's happening.

Swine flu update: Google map suggests it's safer in Baja than Southern California

Ed Kunze, a fly-fishing guide and longtime resident of Zihuatanejo, in the Mexican state of Guerrero, just e-mailed to say, "So far there has not been a single case of the flu here in this state. But we have 80-degree-plus weather, which is not conducive to catching flu-like symptoms.

"Whereas Mexico City, with a much higher elevation, gets cold at night and hot in the day. Combine that with a whole lot of people, and the flu will do very well."

I told Ed about my Sunday trip to the Los Cabos region of Baja California Sur, and he forwarded a link to a Google map showing where swine-flu outbreaks have occurred and commented, "You are actually in greater danger there in L.A."

Looking at that map makes me wish I were leaving sooner.

— Pete Thomas

Photo: Family breaks camp along the shore of Bahia de los Angeles in Baja California. Credit: Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times

Swine flu: Is it real or merely an excuse for when economy plummets again?

Conspiracy theorists abound. I know a guy who's certain those contrails streaking the sky are caused by pilots secretly spreading diseases, for whatever reason, and he undoubtedly is curious about the recent outbreak of swine flu.

This same guy, an avid hunter and fisherman, has a gigantic water tank in his house, for when disaster strikes, and an arsenal with which to defend himself when anarchy reigns. He thinks Twitter is a tool used by the CIA to spy on citizens.

So it's no surprise that, as the CDC is advising Americans against travel to Mexico (putting a damper on my upcoming fishing trip to Cabo San Lucas), and as the media are frightening people back into hiding within the relative safety of their homes, that the theorists are becoming vocal. Below is just one example. I don't buy into it, but there are many, including my hunter-fisherman friend, who might. Enjoy:  

Swine flu won't prevent everyone -- this reporter included -- from visiting Mexico

Who'd have thought Mexico's bloody narco war would take a back seat to swine flu?

If there were justice in Mexico, the epidemic would be restricted to those involved in the illicit drug trade. But unfortunately it's indiscriminate, and prospective tourists undoubtedly now will entertain more second thoughts about visiting the country.

This is bad timing for me. I'm going as planned to the Los Cabos area on vacation, beginning Sunday. My airline ticket and hotel room are paid in full and I'm looking forward to catching marlin and lounging by the pool with cold cervezas. But I will not let the bartender squeeze a lime into my beer; I'll handle that responsibility and exercise the same precautions I exercise at home during flu season: Wash my hands often and avoid close quarters with anyone who appears remotely ill.

Some airlines are offering date changes or refunds. I'm not interested; I'm bolting for the land of abundant sunshine and a refreshingly beautiful and seasonally bountiful Sea of Cortez.

I became mildly concerned after reading in the Washington Post that Baja California was one of the states where swine flu had surfaced. But the report did not mention Baja California Sur, a separate state, where few if any cases of swine flu have been reported.

"To date, no outbreaks in Los Cabos; I believe Tijuana is the place where they found it," said Tracy Ehrenberg, owner of Pisces Sportfishing and wife of a prominent local politician.

Jonathan Roldan, whose Tailhunter International outfitter service is located in La Paz, said in an interview with 976-TUNA that "the biggest worry down here is that people are worried up there," and that he knows of no swine flu cases in the Baja California Sur capital.

That's good enough for me. I just hope too many  people aren't coughing on the airplane. I hate when that happens.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Striped marlin on the hook. Credit: Bill Wilson

Report: Mexico's tourist zones much safer than many in U.S.

Now Mexico's real estate industry is fighting back. A day before President Barack Obama visits Mexico to discuss, among other things, the troublesome drug war issue, RE/MAX Investment Properties issued the results of its research claiming that tourist zones in Mexico are up to 26 times safer than many tourist zones in the United States.

Among its findings: The state of Baja California Sur, which includes some of my favorite destinations such as Cabo San Lucas, La Paz and Loreto, has a homicide rate 26 times lower than Orlando, 18 times lower than Miami, 17 times lower than West Palm Beach and 12 times lower than Tampa and Honolulu.

(Note to self: Stay away from Florida!)

Almost ditto for Quintana Roo, which includes Cancun and the Riviera Maya.

The report used some of the same sources Outposts has used, including a daily tally of drug cartel-related homicides kept by Excelsior newspaper, which through Tuesday listed only one homicide in 2009 in Baja California Sur (compared with 115 in the northern state of Baja California, which includes Tijuana), and four in Quintana Roo.

The report also states that BCS has a homicide rate 39 times lower than Washington D.C., 19 times lower than Houston and 17 times lower than Dallas. There's lots more but the point is as clear as a glass full of blanco tequila, which may or may not be offered to Obama.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Dolphin goes airborne at Cabo Dolphins facility alongside the Cabo San Lucas marina. Credit: Pete Thomas / Los Angeles Times

Roosters on the fly: Something to crow about off Baja's sleepy East Cape

Angie Clark of Alberta, Canada, escaped the bitter cold of her homeland to cast flies into the turquoise Sea of Cortez, off Baja California Sur's East Cape region.

(Note the remoteness. I've walked that same stretch of beach in the background and once, on a windy day, planted a fly into my cheek.)

Clark was fishing with her husband Jamie (also pictured) and Jeff DeBrown, of The Reel Baja fly-fishing guide service.

To read Jeff's blog and fishing reports click here. Essentially, fishing is picking up in the region, which is located one hour north of Cabo San Lucas. Roosters, jacks and other marauders are chasing bait inshore, while dorado are teeming in the bluer offshore water, about 20 miles from land. Marlin are increasing their presence too. It'll be prime time in this region -- and not just for Canadian snowbirds -- for the next few months.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo credits: bajaflyfishingencounters.com

Women can fish too, as Seattle duo proves near Cabo San Lucas

Who says women can't fish?

And apparently, not everybody is afraid of Mexico and its bloody drug war.

Seattle's Britney Coolidge and her mom, Michele, knocked the sierra mackerel and dorado dead during an excursion Sunday aboard Ginny of the Gordo Banks Pangas fleet out of San Jose del Cabo, which is located about an hour north of Cabo San Lucas.

Undoubtedly they enjoyed sierra ceviche and grilled dorado, or mahimahi, for their Sunday dinner.

Eric Brictson, who owns the fleet, reports "mostly sunny days, highs in the low to mid-80s, only moderate afternoon winds and all around great ocean conditions." He also says sardinas are dense along the shore north of town and luring not only sierra but roosterfish, jack crevalle, amberjack, yellowtail, pargo and cabrilla.

Offshore, the dorado bite remains good throughout a long stretch of the southern Sea of Cortez, basically from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz.  As I reported in a previous item, air fares are cheap to the region because of the poor economy and drug war hysteria.

"With the start of spring, we have noticed perhaps a slight increase in crowds visiting the Southern Baja, but still not in the numbers we would anticipate," Brictson said.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Britney Coolidge and her mom, Michele. Credit: Gordo Banks Pangas

Mexico's drug war doesn't add up as a safety threat to tourists

I recently booked a May round-trip Alaska Airlines flight to and from Cabo San Lucas for a base price of $150.00. The after-tax rate of $249 is perhaps the lowest I've paid for a trip to Land's End in 20 years.

Of course if you've watched the news, you know that Mexico is now ruled entirely by drug lords and crooked cops. I'll have to dodge bullets, inspect shadows for kidnappers and check my fish cooler for human heads.

But sometimes you just have to let caution fly and have some fun....

Seriously, the U.S. media, despite admirable coverage of most aspects of Mexico's high-profile drug war, have frightened thousands into believing they face certain peril if they set foot in Mexico.

In truth, many stand at least as good a chance of becoming a murder victim in or near their own communities.

So implies Frank Koughan, executive editor of the Burro Hall website and a former producer for CBS News' "60 Minutes."

In a recent blog post, Koughan, who for nearly three years has lived in Queretaro on mainland Mexico, repeated a point I've stressed often on Outposts: That the vast majority of the 7,000 or so people murdered in Mexico during the past 16 months were involved in the illicit drug trade or worked for law enforcement agencies fighting the narco war.

This yellowtail bite has a catch: You must fly to Baja to get it

Until something of quality begins to bite in Southern California waters, Outposts will continue to tease anglers with quality catches made elsewhere.

The yellowtail at right was caught off La Paz, in the Sea of Cortez, by Bill Evans, who recently moved to the Baja California Sur capital from Northern California.

Jonathan Roldan, who runs Tailhunter International, shared the photo along with a fishing report for the region, which states there are plenty of yellowtail being hooked, but many are being lost as the powerful jacks bolt for structure.

"These fish are not only tough, but when you get into the 25- to 40-pound fish and surround them with rocks, reef and other structure, the fish has the edge," Roldan reports.

The yellowtail pictured below was caught by Pasadena's Michael Brady, who was fishing well south of La Paz, on a Gordo Banks Pangas excursion out of San Jose del Cabo.

Fleet owner Eric Brictson says this is a transition period and soon marlin and other offshore game fish will filter into the region. His catch total for the last week: 53 charters accounting for one striped marlin, two mako sharks, four hammerhead sharks, three yellowfin tuna, five wahoo, 76 dorado, 45 bonito, 23 amberjack, 92 yellowtail, 14 jack crevalle, 26 roosterfish, 218 sierra, 15 cabrilla, three grouper, 18 triggerfish and 22 Humboldt squid.

-- Pete Thomas

Photos: Bill Evans, top, a recent transplant to La Paz, displays one of the yellowtail he caught off La Paz. Credit: Tailhunter International.  Michael Brady of Pasadena, above, poses with a 27-pound yellowtail caught off Palmilla Point while on a Gordo Banks Pangas trip. Credit: Gordo Banks Pangas

Mexico's drug war prompts newspaper list of most violent states vs. safer states

Outposts has posted several items pertaining to Mexico's drug war and danger, or perceived danger, to tourists visiting areas on the Baja California peninsula such as Tijuana, Rosarito Beach, Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas and La Paz.

Clearly, some areas in Mexico warrant more concern than others, and debate on this blog has been varied, with many leery of all of Mexico or critical of its government, and others supportive of and feeling safe in their favorite tourist destinations.

One commenter provided a link to the Mexican newspaper Excelsior, which is compiling drug-related murders for 2009. As of today that total is 1,367. Excelsior also colors the states according to number of murders.

Chihuahua, home to the ground-zero border city of Juarez, leads all states with 548 murders. It's colored purple. Four red states are led by Sinaloa (166), Guerrero (149), Durango (118) and Baja California (99). Most murders in the state of Baja California have occurred in or near Tijuana.

It should be noted that Baja California Sur, which comprises the southern half of the peninsula, is one of many blue states listed as zones with the fewest murders (1). Baja California Sur is home to its capital city of La Paz, Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo and Todos Santos. All are popular tourist areas -- there are many others -- and at least some have lost business because of a perceived danger related to the narco war.

Two other blue states are Yucatan (0) and Quintana Roo (4), home to Cancun. There are numerous yellow states classified merely as violent zones. 

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: View of the Kukulcan pyramid at Chichen Itza, in the Mexican state of Yucatan west of Cancun. Credit: EPA/Jacito Kanek

Forget Mexico's drug war, it's harvest time at Baja's Rancho Leonero

To reach Rancho Leonero Resort, most people fly to the Los Cabos airport near Baja California's tip, then board a shuttle for an hourlong drive north, through a desert landscape patrolled by cattle that sometimes halt traffic on the highway.

The turnoff leads east through more cactus and ungainly cows and, ultimately, to the stunningly beautiful Sea of Cortes (a.k.a Gulf of California), in what's called the East Cape region of Baja California Sur.

About 10 miles out to sea, beyond the sleepy resort sprawled on a bluff, the water changes from turquoise green to a purplish blue. This is where Rick Angelo, a doctor from Boston, caught the remarkable dorado you see in the photo.

Catching dorado on a fly rod is a thrill every angler ought to experience. Dorado are speedy and acrobatic but also radiant and delectable.

But as quarry, they're not nearly as challenging  as roosterfish (pictured immediately above), which are targeted in near-shore waters and can even be caught from the beach. Both species highlight a spring bite now underway throughout the East Cape.

Cabo San Lucas not too caught up in drug-war hysteria but still feeling pinch

Cabo San Lucas might be one of only a few destinations in Mexico that has not been too adversely affected by the drug-war hysteria.

"I have given this much thought and honestly, I think the economy is affecting Cabo more than anything," says Tracy Ehrenberg, owner of Pisces Sportfishing, which caters largely to well-to-do sport anglers. "I was talking to the manager of Squid Roe and he told me this past weekend was one of the best in the history of the bar for sales.

"I was at the beach on the weekend and it was packed. [But] I do object to the overzealous scare tactics, like the e-mails my daughter [in the U.S.] gets from the State Department telling her not to go to Mexico."

Some of the world's wealthiest fishermen keep yachts in Cabo for months at a time and fly down often to battle striped marlin (pictured) and other big-game species. They've not been deterred.

But some of the smaller operations throughout Baja Californa Sur, and certainly those who don't have an established clientele, clearly are feeling the pinch.

"Crowds of tourists are light, this due to bad press about narcotic trafficking wars in Mexico, as well as the collapsing economy," Eric Brictson, owner of Gordo Banks Pangas in San Jose del Cabo, wrote in his March 15 fishing report. "Though the problems being detailed by the U.S. press relate to incidents in border towns such as Juarez and Tijuana, Rosarito Beach and other regions on the mainland. There have not been any reports of similar crimes in the Los Cabos area and this remains a safe travel destination."

Perhaps this is true, but it can be a tough sell to prospective customers who have never been there before.

-- Pete Thomas

Photo: Striped marlin takes flight on the hook Wednesday while surrounded by yachts and fishermen. Credit: Pisces Sportfishing

Boycott Mexico campaign targets illegal immigration issue

The large bold letters scream, "BOYCOTT MEXICO!!'' and are followed by the plea, "Do not give your tourist dollars to Mexico! Spend them in the beautiful American Southwest!"

The Boycott Mexico campaign, by a group called Americans United to Halt Tourism in Mexico, is the last thing tourist destinations in Baja California and elsewhere in Mexico need, as they struggle with an image problem caused by an unrelenting drug war.

Campaign volunteers have been passing out fliers at the U.S.-Mexico border at San Ysidro and other points of entry. The group wants tourists to stop traveling into Mexico until the Mexican government complies with several demands related to the immigration issue.

"The AUHTM Campaign is designed to allow the American people to confront the Mexican people directly on these issues," it says on a campaign link. "The incompetence of the White House and U.S. Congress to do their jobs in this area is well known and leaves concerned and well-informed Americans few alternatives."

Reaction: This smacks of racism, and people in this country are free to travel wherever they wish. This campaign, which is requesting concerned citizens to print and distribute fliers and organize demonstrations, can only hurt businesses that have nothing to do with the illegal immigration issue and, in fact, employ Mexicans in Mexico.

But because it's a free country, those behind AUHTM, who obviously are frustrated and concerned about what they perceive as a major problem, are within their rights to call for a boycott.

As for the American Southwest, it is beautiful. But last time I checked you cannot catch a marlin there. Nor can you kayak with whales or scuba dive with giant Pacific mantas.

--Pete Thomas

Photo: Hectic scene at U.S.-Mexico border. Credit: Associated Press

Baja California Sur tries to shield itself from criminal element

Many aren't aware that Mexico's Baja California peninsula consists of two states: Baja California and Baja California Sur.

Now the latter, prompted by drug-related violence and other crimes occurring in the former, has enacted a three-point "shield" program it hopes will keep BCS safe and discourage criminals.

It's called "Baja California Sur, Estado Seguro," and it's essentially a stepped-up checkpoint effort that might, at times, represent a lengthy inconvenience for tourists.

The first phase was implemented at the ferry station in La Paz, an entry point for motorists from Sinaloa, which is home to the notorious Sinaloa drug cartel. The second phase was implemented near San Ignacio, close to the state's border with Baja California on Mexico's transpeninsular highway.

A third phase will be implemented at the international airport in Los Cabos. The shield program involves random checks that are much more thorough than those typically carried out. Mexican citizens and tourists are being fingerprinted and photographed, and asked to produce vehicle registration and vehicle identification numbers.