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Climbing icon John Bachar dies after apparent Mammoth Lakes fall

July 6, 2009 |  1:18 pm

John Bachar climbs Yosemite's Midnight Lightning in a photo that appeared in Climbing magazine. The climbing community mourns the death of free-soloing legend John Bachar, who died Sunday afternoon after an apparent fall at Dike Wall near his home in Mammoth Lakes.

Details are sketchy and Outposts will update this item as more becomes known. Bachar, who was born in 1957, was famous largely for his accomplishments on difficult routes within Yosemite National Park.

He is survived by a young son named Tyrus.

On John's website is this passage:

"A true rock star as a teenager, Bachar soloed 5.11 when 5.12 did not yet exist ... then he did the first 5.12 in Yosemite Valley, bouldered even harder, climbed stronger than anyone. He refused to compromise his strong traditional style 'ground-up' ethics along the way."

Also posted are these respectful accolades:

--John Long: "There has never been anyone like John Bachar, and there never will be again."

--Peter Croft: "Yosemite was THE place, Bachar was THE guy, that makes him more than just a climber."

--Rob Robinson: "John Bachar was unquestionably the greatest climber of our generation."

Below is a vintage video clip of John at work--very dangerous work.

--Pete Thomas

Photo: John Bachar climbs Yosemite's Midnight Lightning in a photo that appeared in Climbing magazine. Credit: Phil Bard



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Comments

Bachar was a legend - of that there can be no doubt. Still, one has to question his judgement knowing that he was out soloing with a significant shoulder injury.

John will be missed by the whole climbing world, most specially at the outdoor retailer trade show where his friends will always remember him.

I played little league with John and one day after practice he bet me he could climb the brick wall outside the Westchester Rec swimming pool (its still there btw.)

I told him no way can anybody climb a friggin' brick wall. But of course John could and did and won the bet.

I have to believe this was one of his first free style climbs and a portend of things to come.

RIP JB

I grew up in Westchester and spent a lot of time at the Bachar home. John was rarely there because, even as a kid, he didn't sit around wasting time. Sadly, death is inevitable, and John Bachar died too young. Still, I know that John died while 'living life,' as he always did, climbing in his beloved Sierra. Rest in peace, John, and my condolences to his son, brother Dan, and to their Dad.

Every time one of these nuts bites it, I sometimes think - good riddance of another suicidal narcissist - other than the young children and spouses they often so cruelly abandon in their pursuit of their own shimmering reflection.

Free climbing must be the most idiotic of all human activities.

-drl

Mr. Lunsford, ignorance is the most idiotic of all human activities, lack of compassion closely follows but I digress...

Legends never die!
John left more than a mark on modern free-climbing, he constantly redefined what was possible in a very determined pure manner. RIP John Bachar!

I met and worked with John once. I was the principal actor in a national advertised candy bar commercial shooting in Yosemite. John was hired to advise. We would boulder every day on the set during breaks.

I was amazed at his determination and compassion for his sport. This was in 1987. He would do 10 one arm pull-ups! I could only watch in amazement.

I fact John is in the commercial as an extra. No longer running.

Hey DRL... What's a nut bite? Don't be so afraid of what you don't understand... nut bite

Must had a cerebral chemical imbalance. Otherwise why would anyone be this stupid. I agree. Anyone married or has children who does these things is a real act of selfishness.

I was lucky enough to have run into John numerous times over the years, most often at Josh, but my favorite memory was always the first time I met him.

One that magical day, my partner and I watched with awe as John ran solo laps up a sketchy 5-11 and downclimbed an equally precarious and hard 5-10 next to the easier 5-10 that we were failing on. Even though he stopped at the crux to flip over the tape in his walkman, he was humble and encouraging to we mortals, ever time he cruised by us. Later that day, I remember watching the sun setting over the rocks listening to John's sax as it wafted through the canyons. Thank you John for giving us these memories and eternal thanks to his family and loved ones for sharing him with us.

To Those of you who do not understand rock climbing roped or not please do not put us down, you may just as quickly leave this world and your children in a motor vehicle accident, cancer, freak accident or liver disease.

What an amazing inspiration John was. A soul anywhere on earth who lived their life with the passion and drive that John possessed would be a truly lucky individual.

"No Bird flies too high with its own wings" Blake

I never knew John Bachar at all, but my son works and climbs in Yosemite and I see the influence climbers like John has had on his life. I am of two minds. One reminds me that there are old climbers and bold climbers, but no old, bold climbers. The other asks what's the point of being an old man who never dared to do what he dreamt of doing all his life. My son free solos but he is cautious. He ropes in when his Darwin alarm goes off - you know, the one that yells: "You are about to be selected."

John lived his dream for 40 decades, inspired many, and was the best of the best. Many find ways to criticize his lifestyle; they simply do not understand.

what a great amazing climber he was, man.



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Outposts' primary contributor is veteran L.A. Times outdoors and action sports reporter Pete Thomas. Also contributing are Kelly Burgess and other Times staffers.



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