Rosarito Beach violence? Visiting reporter finds no visible sign of danger

I drove to Rosarito Beach last Thursday to experience first-hand the perils associated with travel to the Baja California tourist haven, which is currently without many tourists because of warring between drug dealers in the vicinity.

I struck out. The danger vibe just was not there.

Truthfully, I was more worried about entering Mexico than I was when I arrived and started walking the city's main drag.

The street bustled with men, women and children -- almost all of them, sadly, were Mexicans. Any tourist stood out and was politely ambushed by bar and restaurant employees craving tourist dollars.

Oscar Tepetla, a waiter at Iggy's Corner, twisted my arm, so I agreed to buy a cold cerveza. He told me he has lived in Rosarito Beach most of his life and has only witnessed violence on TV.

The only other customers were a Mexican couple, enjoying lunch in a corner booth. Tepetla said business was this slow, even on weekends, and he blamed a poor economy and bad press.

A year ago, he said, you could always find surfers, fishermen and carefree travelers in this and most of the other establishments on the avenue.

I told him that only once since I arrived did I even think about flying bullets: while eating lunch with Hugo Torres, the town's mayor, whose comments will appear in a blog post later this week.

Torres' life has been threatened as he has been busy rooting out corruption within the police force --successfully, he claims -- and taking other steps to improve his city's image, which has been unfairly tarnished by the narco-war and sensational headlines in newspapers north of the border.

His bodyguards, who lurk in strategic shadows, are imposing fellows.

I traveled down with Philip Friedman, founder of 976-TUNA, whose interview with Torres will air Saturday on Friedman's weekly 6 a.m. radio show on KLAC-AM (570).

With us were Friedman's sons, Philip Jr., and Patrick, who spent part of the day fishing on the pier in front of the Rosarito Beach Hotel.

The hotel's restaurant, which specializes in fresh seafood and serves a delectable grilled whitefish, was full of locals, many of them ex-pats. But the hotel itself was largely empty.

The beach was deserted, but it was a weekday afternoon, a cold wind howled and there was no swell to lure surfers.

We pulled out in late afternoon, and so we'd enjoy a clearer perspective, a tale of two very different cities, we cruised through downtown Tijuana.

The vibe changed entirely. This is the main trouble spot in northern Baja, seemingly a place to steer clear of.

We saw a truck full of armed soldiers, some of them wearing masks. We saw trepidation, even desperation, on the faces of residents.

I bought a newspaper from a street peddler, and on its cover was a color photo of a dead man shot during the previous afternoon. His chest was bloodied as he lay on a crowded sidewalk.

At one point, three police cars behind us fishtailed U-turns and sped away, sirens blaring. The next day we learned there were more killings in Tijuana.

It is good to be home. But I can honestly say I look forward to my next trip to Rosarito Beach and that I may never drive through downtown Tijuana again.

--Pete Thomas

Photos: The Rosarito Beach Hotel and its fishing pier, upon which Patrick Friedman snags the bottom, are lacking in tourists but the entire town hopes for better times in 2009. Nearby Tijuana, especially come nightfall, appears to have far more serious troubles

Comments

[frank]

Did you go to the Rio mall in Tijuana? If so-was there a similar vibe?

We haven't gone in recent years (my wife is Mexican)-and generally bypass downtown in favor of the Sanborns and shops at the mail...

Last time we went we had a very unpleasant experience with a cop downtown...never again...

[Stan Robo]

I travelled through Baja in the 80's for weeks at a time. Never anything buta positive experience. The people helped me iwhen a carrier bearing went out. Pushed my truck to thier house and gave us hospitality unbelievable. Moved thier children into thier bedroom and gave us the kids room. 3 meals a day. All this for 3 days until the Angel Verdes returned with the part and repaired the truck. The Angels refused any tip taking only the cost of the bearing. We tried to sleep in my camper but our hosts would not hear of it. I had to hide some money on the kitchen table so our hosts would be repaid. They would not accept it either. This the Baja I am fond of and the people I love.

[Pete Thomas]

To Frank: No. We just drove around for an hour, as it was getting dark. The feeling I had was that something bad could happen at any time. Maybe that's being unfair to the city, but that's how it felt. I guess seeing trucks full of armed soldiers driving around would make anyone feel that way.

[Frank]

Hey Pete? How much did they pay you to say all this. I still wont head down there!

[Mimi]

You don't see Mexican military soldiers driving their trucks up and down the streets with their loaded weapons? What are you? Blind?

If there's no danger why do the Mexican soldiers patrol the streets?

How much money the Mexican businessmen pay you to lure American tourists down to Mexico?

[Edward]

I had a bad experience in Cancun, so you could have bad experiences everywhere. Rosarito is supposed to be, [b]el tres letras'[/b] area of operations. He's supposed to be some ruthless, killer who has resorted to kidnapping. So I wouldn't be completely sure about Rosarito either...

[David]

I have been going to Rosarito for over 15 years now and let me tell you all, Mexican soldiers have ALWAYS been around. This is how their government works. Seeing a truckload of soldiers on the streets tells you nothing about the safety of the city. This has been a mainstay for years, even when their is little to no violence in the streets. Don't base the safety of a city on the protocol of their military.

[Peter Cassella]

Pete: Your story reminds me when I had some workers at my house in Ramona and a lightning storm rolled through. I asked them to stop working and come inside. They laughed and said the chances of getting struck were over a million to one. Just then a bolt cracked about 100 yards from my house. They quickly put down their tools and we all went inside. I explained the million to one odds were in general, but standing outside in a storm greatly enhanced the odds of getting struck. Playing those lower odds can be dangerous sometimes. The more times you go through that war zone down there, the higher probability something bad will happen.

[Michelle]

My father goes to Mexico twice a month to go fishing. Sometimes Rosarito or all the way to Cabo with his new truck. He travels by himself as well. He's been harrassed by the Federalis couple times. Besides being forced to cough up $ by the Federalis, he said that its been relatively a safe travel. He has always relied on the locals for good fishing knowledge and help when needed.

[Clint - Montreal , Quebec,Canada]

I have lived in Mexico City and Saltillo during the late 80's and all of the 90's. I also know the Baja very well. The only issue is with the Narcotics Trafficers (who have no real interest) in harming tourists, this brings even further poor publicity. Their war is with anyone who attempts to interfere and circumvent their multi-billion dollar a year business.

I have never had any issues or dangers in the Baja, I was just there for the entire fall season.

The USA is the major obstacle, and solution, to the violence in Mexico, the unsatiable appetite for illicit drugs.

USA has 5% of the worlds population and CONSUMES 95% of the illicit narcotics produced. Where is the real problem, Mexico or US?

[Michael Strickland]

Mexican military soldiers patrol the streets because the police are corrupt, and the soldiers are there to do the cops' jobs until the corruption is under control. So the sight of them should make you feel more secure, not vice versa. Better to see them than corrupt cops who are more apt to scam you for $50 than go arrest some criminals. Go to Baja! Get the hell thru TJ as fast as you can, but go to Baja!

[Jim Townes]

Um have you been to baja before? Maybe you should co-write this blog with somebody who has been to baja and tj and then you can compare notes. But driving around and being scared by the sight of a military vehicle doesn't sound like you're going to win any reporting awards. You drove around and were scared -what would have happened if you were walking? I've never been comfortable in TJ walking around at night but scared while you're in your car? That's fine if you're 65 years old getting some discount drugs but for a reporter come on its not Gaza. You should request a new assignment or just report from your desk.

[Delbert]

my wife's relatives live and run a business in TJ and they say that, though it might not be quite as crazy as the newspaper describe, just about every day there is a report of a shooting related in some way to narco trafficing. The in-laws paint a less disturbing picture, but i suspect that they've just become use to the frequency of violency in TJ.

[Lacey]

We've been stopped only once in the past 3 years by a Mexican police officer while going to Rosarito/Ensenada. We never stop in Tijuana and try our best to stay on the freeways. Our relative is building a house on the beach in Rosarito and they have no problems there at all. And from the retirees that live down their permanently, they have recently stopped going into Tijuana, but still completely enjoy the rest of the small Baja cities along the northern coast.

Also, if you haven't heard the Rosarito Mayor just put out a new policy- if you get stopped by an officer for a traffic violation, they legally have to ask you if you prefer a ticket that you can mail in. You do not give the officer money and you do not have to follow them to a courthouse!

You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time anywhere, especially in Los Angeles.

[Bob]

I've been going to Rosarito with my wife for the past three years one to two times a month. I have not had a bad experience in any way. The the people I have interacted with have been very friendly and helpful. Tijuana can be very hectic and unnerving but I have had no problems there. I am very careful and always observe my surroundings while I am in Mexico. There are many areas of Los Angeles I would not go into. I feel comfortable enough with the area I am buying a second home near Rosarito. I am always happy to see the military when I am in Mexico. It shows the government there is committed to maintaining order and cleaning up some of the corruption. We don't have any of that here. Do we?

[Les Matheson]

I go to Rosarito regularly, about once a week. I've never seen anything remotely resembling violence, although I'm intimately aware of the news stories throughout Baja. Some common sense is in order when traveling there: a) don't hang out around the police -- who cares if they sting you for $20... the real problem is only if they get shot at... you don't want to be around. b) Be courteous to everyone on the road, especially cars that are expensive, or have tinted windows and no license plates. The latter identifies most of the cars operated by the drug warriors.

The vast majority of people in Baja are friendly, helpful, and just go on about their lives. The "war" is mostly between the police and the crooks, with a few journalists and bystanders thrown in. Danger to the average tourist is reasonably low.

[wills]

Based on that story, maybe Pete (the author) was kidnapped... or at least his cool handed style. That in no way resembles the typically rich and enjoyable stories I've come to expect from Mr. Thomas. My guess is it must have been a very stressful visit. Why didn't he just share the truth about the dark and depressing vibe? The US economy is in shambles, if we added unchecked violence too? No thanks broham!

[Kathryn]

I think you owe it to your readers to dig a little deeper. Tijuana and Rosarito Beach both have truckloads of soldiers on patrol. I think you fell for some PR guys line that Rosarito is totally different from Tijuana. Both have had high crime rates in recent months, and yet that does not necessarily spell danger to tourists. Phrases l ike "We saw trepidation, even desperation, on the faces of residents" only tell us about your lack of reporting. Did you bother to talk to anyone in Tijuana?

[Pete Thomas]

Kathryn: I did not fall for a PR line. I went there out of curiosity and explained how I felt being in both places for a short period of time--in a blog post, not a story for the paper. That, of course, would have required more research.

I sort of regret suggesting Tijuana was a destination to steer clear of. On the other hand, there reportedly were seven killings the day I was there. True, soldiers patrol both cities, but I did not see any in Rosarito. Nor did I see cops racing around with sirens blaring.

I stand by my claim that there was more of a tenseness in Tijuana. That was my observation, which I shared. Certainly, both cities deserve better, and I wish them the best.

[Kevin]

Cross the border head West, down the Coastal toll road straight to paradise, aka Las Gaviotas. I will make you the deal of a lifetime and am down there every week! www.vrbo.com/50895

[BeSafe]

The fact that the mayor needs body guards and that there was a truck full of armend soldiers should be enough to keep you out of Mexico. If it's not....visit
www.mexicovacationawareness.com

[Eddie]

If you live in Los Angeles, you know that there are some great areas and some you need to stay clear of. I know first hand that if I were to walk around in Compton, I will find trouble. That being said, If I were to walk around in Marina Del Rey, chances are very high I will be fine. This can be said for any city or town. You stay clear of the bad areas and chances are you will be fine. It is no different in Baja. To hear people say "don't go to Mexico" is just ingnorant.

[ABC123]

The fact is you a very UNLIKELY to see any problems. Having lived there (and still do) the media has done a terrible job of reporting. Just 2 weeks ago ABC played a story for the 5th time, letting you the naive public believe it happened yesterday? However thats just what the media wants you to believe, and they are very convencing. On the ground, a different story. Yesterday I was in Rosarito and saw no less the 20 cars of apparently happy Americans wandering around, going to the grocery store, stopping at the curios stands.. Nothing like the media wants you to believe. That was during my 45 minute trip to pick up my kids from school. Things are getting better everyday.. More and more people have put this in perspective. The few controlling the many has got to stop.. Shame that many people dont even realize it...

[Michael Gabriel]

I've traveled extensively in Baja for over 30 years. Sure there's been a tense moment here and there, but all in all I must say that I've enjoyed every minute of it. Mexico is a beautiful country. Both in terms of its geography and its people. Recently I took my 18 year old son, and three of his good friends, down to Rosarita Beach. We had no problems what so ever. We stayed in a 3 bedroom villa that was right on the beach for $135.00 a night. We then headed on down south to Ensanada. We had a great time there as well. Sure, seeing a pick up truck full of Federal Police carying sub machine guns gets your attention pretty quickly. The fact remains that they are present to prevent problems not to create them. I would dearly have loved to have shown my guests around Tijuana, but I felt the risk of getting caught in the cross fire between the narco-elite and the local police to be sadly unacceptable. Maybe in a few years things will change for the better. Perhaps we should legalize drugs here in the US and take the lure of insane profit out of the equation? That'd put an end to the violence in Mexico, (as well as numerous other destinations around the world,) immediately. As for now? Go to Mexico and have a great time! Maybe leave Tijuana off the itinerary for the time being and spend your days and nights safely exploring the many incredible seaside towns that await you as you travel south down the scenic gold coast of the Baja Peninsula. Enjoy!

[Tio Foncho]

Of course there are no visible signs of danger. Perhaps somebody could describe what a visble sign of danger looks like? Is it a yellow diamond-shaped sign with black letters? Since they pick up the bodies right away in Mexico, just like in most places on the planet, the signs are not visible. But the homicide rate in Rosarito and Tijuana is no longer a subject of debate. Now they actually keep track of it and it is reported:

2008 murders in Tijuana: 882
2008 murders in Rosarito: 64

That makes the homicide rate in Tijuana 55 per 100,000 and in Rosarito 45 per 100,000. By contrast the homicide rate in Los Angeles County is 9.8 and in all of California 6.6. Those numbers are not estimates. They are facts. There is no neighborhood in California that even approaches the murder rates in Tijuana or Rosarito.