Baja California crime continues, as does debate about tourist safety

Blood continues to spill in Tijuana and and other border-area communities.

And the debate rages on as to whether it's safe for surfers, campers, fishermen and other tourists to travel in northern Baja California.

First, the latest grim news: Nine human heads were found Sunday in Tijuana, along with a note tying the massacre to the ongoing war between rival drug gangs.

A day later, a report emerged describing November as the deadliest month during President Felipe Calderon's two years in office, with at least 701 killings linked to organized crime occurring throughout Mexico.

Tourists, by and large, have not been victimized.

Now for two voices on the issue of safety in northern Baja:

Serge Dedina, executive director of the conservation group Wildcoast, in an editorial for Voice of San Diego, recalled the recent death of a cousin of one of his Wildcoast colleagues.

The woman was caught in the crossfire "of a narco massacre at a roadside restaurant" in El Rosario, a fishing and agricultural village south of Ensenada. The woman's two children were witness to an ambush that also killed three other diners.

Dedina, who advises against travel into northern Baja, stated: "There are four things to be concerned with: 1) Getting caught in the crossfire of a narco firefight; 2) Being robbed by narco gunmen; 3) Being robbed by corrupt police officers; and 4) Being robbed by drug addicts and criminals in urban areas and more remote areas of the peninsula once perceived to be very safe."

Dedina, a surfer who spends lots of time much farther south on the Baja peninsula, asked, "Do you really need to eat overpriced fish tacos in Tijuana or Rosarito Beach?"

Not related to Dedina's editorial was a letter last week by Jim Gerber, director of the Center for Latin American Studies at San Diego State University, addressed to students and faculty, pertaining specifically to travel into Tijuana, and to a U.S. State Department travel alert issued recently and spread around campus.

Gerber called the drug wars "real" and urged anyone traveling into Tijuana "to exercise the same caution that they exercise when in any major city." Gerber, however, assured that the violence "has been going on for several years" and that the travel alert is merely "a re-issuance of an alert that has been in place for some years."

Gerber stated that the murder rate in Tijuana is less than 40 per 100,000, or between that of Oakland  and St. Louis. "That is high, but less than Baltimore and Detroit (mid-40s) and well below New Orleans (65 to 95, depending on who you talk to)."

Gerber continued, "New Orleans is  a great place to visit, and we have yet to meet anyone who decided not to go due to its murder rate."

Gerber further declared that the violence is between drug gangs and police fighting the drug wars and that life goes on in Tijuana. "We do not want to minimize the reality of the  drug wars," Gerber wrote. "But we also want to point out that, as with our war on terror, paranoia grows in proportion to one's lack of familiarity and understanding.

"We thus caution against allowing fear to manifest in perceived narratives of racism and morality as has occurred far too often in interactions between the United States and Mexico."

Gerber may be a bit late with his cautionary plea, as for many prospective Baja travelers the manifestations of fear have already grabbed deep root.

-- Pete Thomas

Photos: A Mexican soldier, top, stands guard on the streets of Tijuana. Credit: Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times. Above, a turkey vulture keeps watch over the Baja desert from atop a cardon cactus. Credit: Bill Evarts / For The Times

Comments

[Pam]

We used to travel down the Baja to the Sea of Cortez every year. But the last time we went, we were stopped at least 7 or 8 times by the Federales. Each time, they go thru your belongings, help themselves to your sodas or donuts and walk around your RV with AK-47s. It's disconcerting and very, very uncomfortable. We don't go anymore and it's a shame because we love Mexico and we love the Sea of Cortez. The thought of being stopped on the way south by bandits is another scare. I miss Mexico but it's not like Oakland or New Orleans or any other big American city. It's remote and you're out there on your own on those roads. You have no recourse and it can be very scary.

[Serge Dedina]

Pete:
Thanks for the story--here are additional bits from my article on how to stay safe if you do travel. I think the latest violence this weekend (over 30 were killed) in which two children were murdered demonstrates the fallacy of assuming that somehow this only impacts people involved in the drug trade or that dealing with it in a professional manner is somehow racist or about misperceptions of Mexico. That is also an insult to the innocent people who have been killed.

From my article:

As someone who has spent the past 20 years working throughout the Peninsula, things have changed in Baja. The residents of the region are the first to take the issue of security seriously. So here are some tips to help you stay safe:

2. Don't drive anywhere at night. Stay off the Tijuana-Ensenada toll road or Highway 1 after dark.

3. Don't camp in isolated areas alone especially between El Rosario and Tijuana. Stay in campgrounds or with families you know. Crystal meth addiction in rural Baja has caused a crime wave in farming village and fish camps alike.

4. Travel in caravans. Stay safe in numbers if you are heading south of El Rosario.

5. Don't underestimate the danger. It is better to over overcautious than a victim of crime.

It is unfortunate that old Baja California is disappearing. I just hope that for the sake of the amazingly honest, generous and friendly people who inhabit the Peninsula, that this unfortunate situation will change for the better.

Serge Dedina
Executive Director
WiLDCOAST/COSTASALVAjE
Imperial Beach and Ensenada

[Gernot Trolf]

It is about time that someone points out what the true crime rate in Baja California is as compared to the U.S.

Gerber stated that the murder rate in Tijuana is less than 40 per 100,000, or between that of Oakland and St. Louis. "That is high, but less than Baltimore and Detroit (mid-40s) and well below New Orleans (65 to 95, depending on who you talk to)."
So Americans are afraid of going to Baja because of the medias over exposure of murder in the border region.
Nobody is afraid of going to New Orleans or Baltimore or Detroit for a visit or business but Baja is suffering.
It also means more Mexicans are coming illegal or legal to the U.S. because there are no tourists and that means no jobs.
So we are - again - making our own problems.

[Samuel]

I believe this is a dire concern that must be addresed immediately and should not be over looked.
we need to militarize our southern border as soon as possible, as well as upgrade the local law enforcement with newer and better fire arm technology for border states and cities.This will help us keep up and protect us from the onslaught of the over spilling violence in to this nation.

[Dan]

Gerber's numbers are at best outdated. There have been 740 murders so far this year, with still nearly a month to go in 2008. But assuming the murders stopped altogether now, the murder rate in 2008 would be more than 50 per 100,000 -- far worse than Oakland and St. Louis. I'm not saying to avoid Tijuana, because I'd go back in a minute. But I'll be a lot less carefree the next time, and I'm more likely to go further south to a safer place like Ensenada. Gerber's argument about New Orleans is a bit off, because downtown and the French Quarter are safe -- despite the city's overall murder rate. That's where most tourists go. Unlike TJ, you don't get a lot of mass killings in N.O.

[wyo]

I biked solo from lapaz to el centro california almost two years ago-in three weeks. despite the checkpoints and the sporadic anti gringo sentiment it was a great time. beautiful place. don't think i'll be back for a while though. i get harassed as much riding through nebraska and am almost more on alert when in chicago than in baja although definitely tijuana should be avoided-go through the border at tecate-more mellow. don't look like you have and don't have too much money. the border on both sides is sort of a war zone.
btw-the u.s. government funds the military checkpoints. your tax dollars at work. and now rogue outfits set up fake checkpoints to rip people off.

[sdnews]

Unfortunately Northern Baja is more dangerous than it seems from the murder statistics since they don't count kidnapping victims. Many victims simply disappear never to be heard from again. The survivors don't give up hope but so they aren't counted as murder victims. The truth is they are often killed. See this article: http://www.txcn.com/sharedcontent/dws/txcn/houston/stories/khou081202_jj_mexico-kidnapping-hugo-wallace.23dcd204.html

We need to shut down our borders ASAP to reduce the flow of drugs and the corrupting influence of narco profits. It’s in our interest to give Mexico as much aid as possible to help them improve their security situation and economy.

I used to go to Tijuana all the time to visit friends. I stopped going there completely when violence escalated in September. It’s a killing field and the violence is escalating. I will not return until security is restored for 3-6 months.

[Josh Strike]

Says Gerber, the SDSU chair: "we also want to point out that, as with our war on terror, paranoia grows in proportion to one's lack of familiarity and understanding."

Wow. Way to paint anyone who's afraid of going to TJ as racist or reactionary. I hope the chair will be held responsible for his comments when one of his students gets shaken down, or knifed, or worse. I've been living in the third world for some years, and even endured a kidnapping scare in south america, but I've never been anywhere that scared me more at every turn like northern baja; it's a hellhole, and it becomes scarier the MORE you know about it. You don't have bags full of heads turning up in Detroit. You don't have paramilitaries robbing people with AK-47s. I've got no axe to grind, but there's nothing racist about saying that Mexico -- and particularly that part of it -- is a scary, corrupt, dangerous mess.

I'm appalled that Mr. Gerber would try to link a frank assessment of the horrendous security situation there with racist sentiment, as a way of minimizing it; in fact, it's his own relativism -- the implication that somehow, what happens in Mexico isn't as bad because it's done by Mexicans and mostly to Mexicans -- that's racist and dishonest.

[Jon K.]

Where's the debate? In terms of REAL numbers its safer to vacation in Iraq right now. I mean, come on. Do you REALLY want to vacation in Mexico THAT badly? There's plenty of other places to go.

[Jorge A]

The reason I stopped going to Mexico each year is this: I'm not worried about being murdered; i am more worried about being kidnapped. The narcos / police / etc hold your whole family for ransom. Of course only a small portion of Gerber's report is printed here, bit if Gerber doens't see that he's out of touch.

[Besafe]

It's not just the border towns that you need to worry about. To read the tragic stories about what can happen to you even inside of Mexico Resorts visit: WWW.MEXICOVACATIONAWARENESS.COM

[Tomas Garcia]

I think professor Gerber needs to sharpen his pencil before he quotes outdated murder statistics. There were 200 reported murders in Tijuana in November, 2008. That works out to an annual murder rate of 160 per 100,000. By contrast, the murder rate in San Diego County, where Dr. Gerber teaches at SDSU, in only 4 per 100,000. Telling faculty and students that Tijuana is no more dangerous than Detroit, Baltimore or New Orleans seems a little sophomoric when one considers that Tijuana has a murder rate that is 40 times greater than the area from whence these people will be traveling from.

Pulling the race card is really an insult to the intelligence of the reader. Since when are Mexicans a race? Mexican is a nationality, just as American is a nationality.

[Alex K.]

stay within 2-3 miles ON THE MAIN STRIP of the border where there are cops on every corner. If you stop seeing American clubs TURN AROUND!!! DONT TALK TO ANYONE!!! keep your eyes on the ground and ignore everyone. And don't dress like you are rich meaning don't wear your expensive sunglasses with your brand name shirt and your spotless jeans with your untouched bright white hat while showing off your iPhone. I have been going almost every weekend since summer and I still have all ten of my fingers. JUST DON"T BE A STUPID AMERICAN!!! And you'll be fine.

[Jon K.]

Alex K.,

Listen to your description. Does that sound like fun? Why go?

[jake]

I use to go to baja all the time. But they chased out all the high class play. Now I go the other direction, SB,Monterey, SF, Napa, Squaw, Mammoth. The landscape has changed for the worse and no longer the relaxing get away it once was. This chapter of my life is over.

[MATT]

I have been to Baja 15 times in the past 20 years. I always travel smart and have had no mishaps. Is all this news just fear based or are lots of real things happening if you travel "smart"? I need some perspective/advice as I was planning to bring my family down.

[Les Cava]

This Professor sounds like he has a personal agenda in all of this.... he's almost promoting Northern Baja. Has anyone looked into his background? It seems irresponsible for a university professor to "recommend" his students and others leave the safety of their hometown for an area in a foreign country going through a "war" at this time.

Maybe they aren't killing tourists, but would you want to be in a restaurant/hotel/store when a possible crossfire erupts? The possibility of kidnapping tourists is real as it happened 5 times last year....

I love Baja and Mexico, but they are at a crossroads and fighting for their lives, so lets help them anyway we can and pray for them to win.

[A.K.]

WAH WAH WAH!

[here]

October 19, 2008: -The U.S. Military ban personnel from visiting Mexico

"The U.S. Military ban its personnel from visiting Mexico because of the increasing violence there. U.S. Army posts along or near the U.S. Mexican border according to officials, say they've discontinued issuing passes to soldiers who want to travel across the border to Mexico. "If it's not safe for U.S. Soldiers, than it is unsafe for other Americans. Said, John Lutes, who was born in El Paso and served in the military.The new travel alert up-date says "that while millions of U.S. Citizens safely visit Mexico each year, including thousands who cross the land border every day for study, tourism or business, increased levels of violence make it imperative that travelers understand the risks of travel to Mexico, how best to avoid dangerous situations, and whom to contact if one is a victim of crime. Common-sense precautions, such as visiting only legitimate business and tourist areas, avoiding areas where prostitution and drug dealing might occur, and exercising prudence in where one visits during the evening hours and at night, can help ensure that travel to Mexico is safe and enjoyable."

[Billy mills]

I've been going to Baja California for the last 40 years. I would go for 6-8 months at a stretch and camp and fish. It was nice. Now it's a dump. Trash everywhere, sea life raped out of existence and basic food articles way overpriced. Police roadblocks all the time, and now violent as well. There are better places to go. I'll probably never go back.

[Amber]

My sis and I are driving to Rosarito in a couple weeks, staying for a couple days. We are concerned about crossing the border, especially on the way back into the U.S. We will use commonsense, i.e. lock doors, drive in daylight, don't leave valuables, but we want to know if we are crazy to go in the first place? How bad is it really? At the border and in Rosarito?
Thanks in advance-
Amber

[bajaman]

What’s Really HappeningJune 5, 2009
BEWARE OF ROSARITO
do not believe everything written on many of the Baja web Sites as the majority are from those with vested interests(hoteliers,real estaters,restaurateurs, property owners etc)I live here and know of no one who hasn’t been robbed either on the street, in their homes or by the police! Ca. is deporting every criminal it possibly can and the miscreants are all ending up here doing their dirty deeds.If by chance the police are not initially involved you CANNOT count on them for any appreciable assistance in solving your case. Possibly if you are young and pretty or wealthy and you are beheaded or raped by the gangsters someone will pay some attention. Short of that you are simply pushed aside with the dozens of others who have been violated, kidnapped or murdered
.Do yourself a favor and enjoy California