The gentrification of Latin resort towns

Quick, what do these three Latin American cities have in common: 1) San Miguel de Allende, Mexico 2) Antigua, Guatemala 3) Cartagena de Indias, Colombia?

Answer: They're exquisite, colonial-era towns, islands of affluence in the middle of deprivation, that some worry are in danger of becoming private playgrounds for the wealthy and foreign tourists.

San Miguel and Antigua have been grappling with the trade-offs of their soaring popularity for years, and authors like Tony Cohan have written sensitively and perceptively about the delicate social ecosystems of these rare places.

The new kid on the block is Cartagena, a coastal Caribbean port, relatively safe by Colombian standards, with cobbled streets, resplendent architecture and a rich history that has made it a favorite of sight-seers and film makers. But as the Times reported in February, some fear that more cruise liners and soaring real estate prices linked to a construction boom are threatening the unique character of the so-called Heroic City, particularly its beautiful historic center.

Now the Colombian magazine Noventaynueve has weighed in with an editorial, arguing the need for better, more thoughtful planning by city officials in promoting Cartagena as a cultural destination -- and not just a destination for outside visitors. Among other points, the editorial says that the majority of Cartagena's local residents are "ignorant of the festivals that are going on in our house." Further, it says that many of these cultural events occur at times of day, and are priced at levels, that are "little accessible for the majority."

Any recent travelers out there care to comment?

Posted by Reed Johnson in Mexico City

Comments

[Natalie Burdick]

While I agree that 'foreigners' can bring problems, the reality is that things are so black and white. I've been to San Miguel several times, and always see a living, breathing, working colonial town full of locals, AND visiting Mexicans who come from Mexico City to enjoy what is a gem in terms of architecture, weather, culture and history.

The tourista and expat money that goes into the city has done much for the local community, including driving the economy, growing public services and enabling/supporting social institutions -- as with all things, balance is the key.

Over-development is ugly no matter where it happens -- it's just potentially tragic in places where the intrinsic value/beauty gets lost -- something that because of the foreigners in San Miguel, there's much (organized) resistance against in the Centro area.

But for those of you who are looking for another colonial town that is further off of the beaten path, try Patzcuaro about 3 hours away in Michoacan.

[Mike Conboy]

I started visiting Antigua, Guatemala about five years ago. It was magical and still is. However, I have noticed more and more "upscale" accomodations opening behind the Spanish Colonial facades. And the restaurant scene is going upscale as well with cuisine that has more of a nod to "world-class' than regional.

Still, the town fathers are very strict about what gets built and even new, more exclusive housing developments keep a low profile and retain an historic feel.

[Cha]

I was born in Guanajuato, near San Miguel, and have traveled to Cartagena numerous times.
I agree that these places have become (or are becoming) private playgrounds for the wealthy.
San Miguel long ago succumbed to the influx of American retirees and tourists. Renting a house for a month now goes for over a thousand dollars, well above the Mexican average. Near-by towns are following suit.

But I agree with Spencer, Cartagena, on the other hand, still has much of its local charm. It is a beautiful city with tremendously rich history. The people and their variety - Indian, blacks, mixed, Costeños, Paisas and even Cachacos – is amazing. Even with the devalued dollar, you can get a condo on Boca Grande, right on the Caribbean, for $100k. I hope those in power take these recommendations and warnings seriously. They should institute programs and better planning to make the city accessible to all Colombians.

One of the negatives - if Colombia fixes its violence problem, then Cartagena would quickly turn into a dump from the increase in visitors and settlers.

But, of course, I have mixed feelings. I enjoy the comfort and luxury that my dollars buy… but I hope that these places remain accessible to the locals who, in my opinion, make my visits so much more pleasurable and interesting.

p.s. Visit Santa Marta. It’s not the colonial and historical city that Cartagena is, but has much better beaches.

[Spencer]

Well San Miguel is getting crazy. Gringos who cannot speak a word of Spanish and I saw more range rovers than in London! The hippie / yuppie crowd is the pits and they espouse the ugly American attitude.

Cartagena on the other hand still has its charm, probably due to the fact that most Americans are afraid to go there. It has a large vacation population of Italians and Europeans looking for those cute Colombian girls. However, they forget that the beautiful ones are inland in Medellin and aren't necessarily living on the coast. The sheer amount of costruction and high rises is quite amazing. It is a great place as you have sand, sun, caribbean flavour and Colombia all in one.