New-wave surfer stereotypes?

There weren't too many rooms at the Festival of Books where tank-tops and flip-flops were deemed proper attire for the discussions. But with "word up" being tossed around at the "Surf Culture" panel, the attire really did fit the topic.

Steve Hawk, Steven Kotler, Kem Nunn and David Rensin addressed the topic of surf culture to an audience half-filled with readers and half-filled with surfers.

Jokes were made about what exactly surf culture is. Rensin, for example, compared surf culture to the musical styling of Yanni. He took a pause for laughter and then said both have mystical viewing powers. Moderator Antoine Wilson then jumped in and said both can also be embarrassing.

All four addressed the issue of the "Spicoli effect," named after the Sean Penn character in "Fast Times at Ridgemont High"--which refers to the tendency to portray surfers as unintelligent slackers. All four are breathing examples of how unfair that is.

Kotler, for example, spoke about the neurological effects of surfing, noting that more endorphins are released during surfing than in any other sport. Hawk touched heavily on ecological problems that affect oceans and how those factors can be mitigated. Nunn and Rensin used their experiences growing up in the 1960s and 1970s to discuss the transition of how surf culture changed from the ranks of jobless young-adult wave searchers to mainstream, employed surfers ranging in age from 7 to 85.

They all agreed that surf culture is distinct from anything else in the world, and the language and behavior pushes to be unique.

When a member of the audience asked how surf culture can get past negative stereotypes, the four frustrated the questioner when they jokingly responded that they do drugs. But the four are clearly living testaments to the enigmatic surf culture that wants to get past stereotypes--but still wants to be rebellious.

--Joshua Sandoval

(Photo of Kem Nunn by Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)

Comments

[David Rensin]

Nice piece. One note: I said "mystical healing powers,"
as a reference to how surfing healed Steve Kotler. But Yanni, a first rate guy by the way, got a laugh. He always does.