What are you drinking? Vanessa Cinti, Cut in London

Cut in Beverly Hills has one of the best female sommeliers in the business, Dana Farner. And so does Wolfgang Puck’s newish London branch at the luxe hotel 45 Park Lane. She’s Vanessa Cinti, an Italian who worked with Puck at Spago in Bachelor Gulch, Colo.

Cinti grew up in her parent’s restaurant near Torino, but her parents encouraged her to do something else with her life. She went to university in Urbino where she studied sociology. After university, she started traveling “and the passion came up again,” she says simply, as if there was nothing to be done. “And here I am now, working for Wolfgang Puck.”

London was a big change for Cinti. “At the beginning, it was hard because it was completely new territory for me. And I didn’t know how guests would react to my list for Cut. Now, as I understand my guests more, the list is changing and evolving.” It surprised her to find that Cabernet from the United States and Bordeaux are her two biggest sellers. “It’s cold outside and most people ask for a nice full-bodied wine.” 

And what about your beloved Nebbiolo? I couldn’t help asking. 

“That's my wine. That's my land. That's my heart. I do have, of course, a nice selection of Barolo and Barbaresco. And I love them with the meat.”

I was curious, though, as to which California Cabernets Londoners were drinking. “They love Duckhorn Vineyard, Stags Leap Wine Cellars wines, and if you want to go a little higher in price they like Silver Oak all the way up to Harlan Estate.”

And when I asked her what Cabernet had caught her fancy lately, she cited the 2007 O'Shaughnessy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Howell Mountain vineyard in Napa Valley. “I have been there. The view from the vineyard is spectacular and the wines are even more spectacular, elegant and full of fruit with well-integrated tannins. I'm so happy to have this wine on my list!”

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-- S. Irene Virbila

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Photos: Vanessa Cinti, Head Sommelier. Courtesy of Vanessa Cinti.

 

And now for something completely different from Randall Grahm

Randall Grahm has long been known as one of the most curious, iconoclastic, even heroic winemakers around. And so why would we figure he would change when he opened a restaurant? Grahm's new project, called Le Cigare Volant after his first landmark wine, is located on the property of his winery, Bonny Doon Vineyard, just outside Santa Cruz.

Formerly called "The Cellar Door," it re-opened re-dubbed April 1. Make of that date what you will. Ryan Shelton is the chef, and by all accounts it's pretty danged good. But what really makes it something different is -- no surprise -- the wine list. Grahm is a freak about soil. He calls himself a "terroirist" (and even a "vinarchist").

The wine list at Le Cigare Volant is arranged not by "red" and "white," or even by "light" and "heavy" but according to what kind of dirt the grapes' vines grew in. "Gravel" wines, for example, tend to produce wines that have a quality of "dustiness," Grahm says (those familiar with his writings will instantly recognize that he said a whole lot more than that). From that category he recommends a Bordeaux Superieur, a Bourguiel and a Pomerol.

Volcanic soils, Grahm says, produce wines that "possess perhaps the strongest expression of 'minerality.' They are often wines with a preternaturally great life-force, or resistance to oxidation, and will generally require lots of air before they open up." That's more in the nature of a Grahm quote. Oh, yes, there is a footnote too. The wines are a Fiano di Avellino, an Aglianico del Vulture, an Etna Rosso, and a Tinto Malpais from the Canary Islands.

Wine lists are usually fascinating reading only for wine geeks. This one is something special.

328 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, (831) 425-6771.

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Photo: Randall Grahm. Credit Bonny Doon Vineyard

 

What are you drinking? Jeremy Parzen at Sotto

When the Italian restaurant and pizzeria Sotto first opened last year, wine director Jeremy Parzen came over to the table one night to talk wine. My guest that night not only read Parzen's wine blog, Do Bianchi, but recognized him as a bass player and songwriter for the bands Nous Non Plus (recently featured on the new HBO series "Girls") and Les Sans Coulottes” 

Parzen has a fabulously checkered resumé. He used to teach Italian and cinema at UCLA, has a Ph.D. from UCLA in Italian, etcetera, etcetera, and now writes a wine column for Houston Press in Texas. Oh, I should mention that he lives in Austin.

In an email exchange, he explains, “although most in the industry know me as a wine trade marketing consultant, I consider myself first and foremost an Italian wine and food historian and philologist. The scope of my blog, DoBianchi.com, is to give readers a humanist perspective onto the world of Italian food, wine and culture. I believe that ampelography (literally, the writing of grapes) and vinography are exegetic tools that help us to interpret and understand the human condition and experience.”

While that may sound like heady stuff, Parzen is a witty and approachable writer — and enormously curious about wine. He travels all over Italy and has poked around in most wine regions there, even the most obscure. And he brings all that first-hand knowledge to bear on Sotto’s wine list, which he co-curates with wine captain Rory Harrington. Parzen shows up at the restaurant two days a month to taste new wines, lead seminars for the waitstaff and work the floor. His next visit will be Wednesday and Thursday, May 16 and 17.

So what’s a guy from Austin doing as wine director at Sotto? The story goes back to 1987, when Parzen and Sotto co-owner and chef Steve Samson met during their junior year abroad in Italy and became fast friends. "I’ve followed his career as chef since his first years with Piero Selvaggio, and I was thrilled when he and chef Zach Pollack asked me to curate the wine list at Sotto."

Right now Parzen and Harrington are just beginning to add wines to the list for the summer season. One bottle that has Parzen jazzed is the 1997 Cirò Riserva “Ripe del Falco” by Ippolito made from 100% Gaglioppo grapes grown in Cirò, Calabria. That’s way down south. 

Says Parzen, “Cirò and its Gaglioppo are one of the most vibrant categories in southern Italian wine today and I love the fact that we can offer our guests a 15-year-old expression of this noble wine (at $90 a bottle).” 

He’s also a big fan of the Basilicata Bianco by Re Manfredi “made from German-speaking (yes, German-speaking!) grapes grown at high altitude in the foothills of Mt. Vulture (an extinct volcano in Basilicata). It's a blend of Müller-Thurgau and Traminer, grapes traditionally associated with South Tyrol (Alto Adige) but ideal for the high-elevation vineyards in this southern region. It's bright, with great acidity (a must for me), and it has white fruit and white stone fruit on the nose and in the mouth. A clean crisp refreshing, however unusual, wine. It's $14 a glass.”

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-- S. Irene Virbila
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Photos: Jeremy Parzen. Credit: Tracie Parzen.

Wine bags for the crafty set

Sorry, but that brown paper bag doesn’t quite cut it at BYOB restaurants like Black Hogg in Silver Lake. 

Not that you need to go in for an expensive leather wine tote disguised as a man purse. That’s definitely overkill. 

How about these tongue-in-cheek wine bags from the Nest Vintage and Handmade in Anaheim? Made by Nest’s Lisa Rios, they’re suitably crafty for the neighborhood, labeled with wine-friendly words such as HOORAY!, CHEERS!, WINO and, er, LUSH. Which are you?

And for hiking refreshment, they’ve got some winsome whiskey flasks too, emblazoned with mustaches, whales, bicycles, octopi. Claim your preference.

Nest Vintage and Handmade, 423 s. Brookhurst St., Anaheim, (916) 4MY-NEST (469-6378), www.nestvintageandhandmade.com. Wine bags and flasks, $18.

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Photos: Lisa Rios wine bag. Credit: Nest Vintage and Handmade.

What are you drinking? Claudio Blotta at barbrix

At barbrix, owner Claudio Blotta, who owns the Silver Lake wine bar with his wife, Adria Tennor, features 50 wines by the glass, along with an eclectic list of about 80 to 90 labels. His is a wide-ranging palate, hard to peg as he enjoys so many different wines from so many regions around the world. 

But he does have a few areas of focus. Piedmont reds and Austrian whites are a passion for the Argentine native who came here to study aviation in 1981. 

As former manager and wine director at Campanile, Blotta is a longtime fan of Weingut Knoll in the famed Wachau region along the Danube, west of Vienna. Right now he’s enjoying Knoll's 2009 Loibner Riesling federspiel.

“This Riesling has great minerality and because it’s a federspiel, wonderful ripe fruit. It makes a perfect apèritif, but it’s also a great food wine, especially now with the weather getting a little warmer.   

"I like it with fried squash blossoms stuffed with cheese. It also goes well with fava beans — right now our chef Don Dickman has a fava bean salad on the menu. Beets with avocados is another spring dish I like with the Knoll Riesling.”

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-- S. Irene Virbila

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Photo: Claudio Blotta at barbrix. Credit: S. Irene Virbila / Los Angeles Times

 

Loam Baby, a new wine journal

A couple of weeks ago, I checked my mailbox at The Times and found a new wine journal lurking therein. It's called Loam Baby, a Wine Culture Journal, written and published by an anonymous author under the pseudonym R. H. Drexel. 

Given the bare-bones layout and paper quality, I don't think you’d have any problem identifying the 66-page booklet as self-published. The name intrigued me, though, and I opened up the inaugural Santa Barbara County issue to find an interview with winemaker Greg Brewer (Diatom, Brewer-Clifton, Melville) illustrated with a low-tech photo of the lauded winemaker showing off the intricate octopus tattoo that covers his shoulder and arm, more photos of his various tattoos, even one with the winemaker taking a shower (discreetly cropped). Enough to make you feel like a Peeping Tom.

Silly or what? 

But I started reading and liked the meandering nature of the conversation: It seemed real and not much edited, and I got a sense of Brewer that I hadn't gotten from other interviews or profiles I'd read. 

This first journal also includes an interview with Mike Bonaccorsi's widow, Jenne, who has been running Bonaccorsi Wine Company since his death in 2004. The article, though, is mostly about her Labrador retriever, Masseto (with adorable pictures). It seems both woman and dog completely charmed the author.

There’s more: an article on outspoken winemaker Deborah Hall of Gypsy Canyon Winery, who, it turns out, is also a fledgling beekeeper. A story on "Things we love about Santa Barbara," plus a quirky suggested playlist from Rick Longoria of Longoria Winery. Mad for music, he's strung tunes together to play for a trip through the Santa Maria Valley ("Goblin' Girl" from Frank Zappa, "Sittin’ on a Fence" from the Rolling Stones, "Tumblin' Tumbleweeds" from Sons of the Pioneers, to name a few). He got so carried away, he created playlists for the Santa Ynez Valley, the Santa Rita hills and Happy Canyon too.

My favorite story? The tale of Chad Melville's candy apple red 1972 Volkswagen Transporter.

You can read it online at http://loambaby.com/ or buy a hard copy on the site for $11, including shipping.

Questions? Currently, Loam Baby does not tweet, tumble or Facebook, according to the website. But you can contact the author at RH@loambaby.com or by snail mail at 4225 Solano Ave., No. 643, Napa, Calif. 94558, which Google says is a UPS store. But having the address means that if you really, really want to know who's behind this new wine journal, you can hang out in front and make like Raymond Chandler, waiting for someone to pick up the mail from Box 643.

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Photo: Loam Baby cover. Credit: R. H. Drexel

 

What are you drinking? Aldo Vacca, Produttori del Barbaresco

I caught up with Aldo Vacca, director of Produttori del Barbaresco as he made a quick trip to Los Angeles on the way to San Francisco and Portland. It had been raining for the past few days in northern Italy and he was happy to see some sunshine. 

Of course, Vacca drinks Piedmontese wines when he’s at home, and traveling for the Produttori, he pours their Barbaresco, both the straight Barbaresco and the single vineyards. But here in L.A., he seeks out California wine. 

This trip, he was impressed with Kalin Cellars 1997 "Potter Valley" Sauvignon Blanc. Yes, you read that date right: it's Kalin's latest release.

“The wine is aging beautifully,” Vacca says. “It has a nice honeyed character, but at the same time it’s very minerally. I like, too, that it’s not overly sweet or overly oaked, and then very dry on the finish. Very elegant. Very balanced.”  

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Photos: Aldo Vacca. Credit: S. Irene Virbila/Los Angeles Times

Produttori del Barbaresco tasting with director Aldo Vacca

For fans of Piedmontese wines and especially those of Produttori del Barbaresco, the tasting with Produttori’s director Aldo Vacca April 17 at the Wine House should be quite the event. Vacca doesn’t come to California all that often and you’ll find he is a delightful advocate for Barbaresco and all things Piedmontese. 

The Italian winery is right next to the church in Barbaresco and during the harvest, the farmers unload the grapes right in front. A cooperative of 56 grapegrowers originally founded in 1894, the Produttori is that rare thing: a cooperative that values quality over quantity. The members also happen to own some of the top vineyards in Barbaresco, and the wines can stand with the best in the region.

This is the chance to taste nine Produttori del Barbaresco crus from the 2005 and 2007 vintages, including Pora, Rio Sordo, Asili, Paje, Ovello and Montefico. Appetizers are included in the $45 price.

 To reserve a place for the 7:30 p.m. tasting, contact the Wine House, 2311 Cotner Ave., Los Angeles; (310) 479-3731; (800) 626-9464; www.winehouse.com.

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Photos: Harvest at the Produttori in Barbaresco. Credit: John Anthony Rizzo or Produttori del Barbaresco.

Los Angeles wine collector arrested

Jaws dropped around the wine world several years ago over a Los Angeles Times profile of an Indonesian wine collector named Rudy Kurniawan, who bragged about spending millions of dollars a year at wine auctions, including purchases as high as $75,000 for a case of 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc. Thursday, as reported on our LA Now blog, he was arrested by federal officials on suspicion of selling $1.3 million in counterfeit wine.

Kurniawan, the U.S. attorney’s office in New York alleged, claimed he was selling rare vintage French wine at various auctions. The sales occurred between 2007 and 2012.

"He engaged in multiple fraudulent schemes relating to his wine business, including attempting to sell counterfeit wine that, if genuine, would have been worth over $1.3 million," the U.S. attorney said in a statement.

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Photo: Rudy Kurniawan at wine tasting. Credit Ricardo DeAratanha/Los Angeles Times

4 Events: Ray's and Stark, Chaya, Golden Road Brewing, Papilles

Birthday party: On March 5, Ray's and Stark Bar at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art is celebrating its first year with a party. Executive chef Kris Morningstar has devised a menu featuring the best dishes of the year, such as chile with chorizo, dates, local goat cheese and almond sauce; squid ink pasta with garlic, chile, mint, opal basil and bottarga; and crispy pork belly with black vinegar sauce.   Sommelier-barsmith Paul Sanguinetti and general manager Martin Riese will DJ throughout the evening and guests will be able to participate in free screen printing on the patio. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 857-6180, www.raysandstarkbar.com.

Good things come in threes: To commemorate Chaya Downtown's third birthday, the restaurant is featuring a three-course prix-fixe menu ($33 per person) and $3 happy hour specials during March.  The menu will consist of roasted heirloom beets with baked cana de cabra cheese, arugula, fennel and balsamic must, grilled Wagyu flank steak and sweet potato frites, with Belgian chocolate fondant with raspberry coulis and mascarpone ice cream for dessert. For happy hour, guests can savor bar bites such as the spicy tuna hand roll, buttermilk-poached chicken skewers with soy glaze and seven spices, and a flat bread of the day with a chef’s choice of marinara, olives, asiago and arugula.  On March 16, the official anniversary date, Chaya Downtown will host a “Flights and Bites” wine tasting with Chateau Ste. Michelle for $33 per person. 525 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, (213) 236-9577, www.thechaya.com.

Beer for benefit: Golden Road Brewing is teaming up with the Whole Planet Foundation to raise money for the organization by hosting a beer festival on March 11.  Attendees will be able to sample the brewery's signature beers, including the Point the Way IPA, Golden Road Hefeweizen, Either Side of the Hill (strong ale) and Get Up Offa That Brown.  Food will be provided by Whole Foods Market and local vendors.  The foundation is dedicated to alleviating poverty in the developing world by providing families with the tools to expand their home businesses.  Tickets for this event are $20 per person and can be purchased online. 5410 W. San Fernando Road, Los Angeles, (213) 373-4677, www.eventbrite.com, www.goldenroad.la.

"Off the Clock" wine tasting: On Sunday, wine aficionado Santos Uy will be highlighting five wines along with a myriad of sweet and savory bites from his new restaurant, Papilles, at local wine shop Domaine LA.  The featured wines will include a 2010 Batic Pinela and 2000 Lopez de Heredia Rosado. The tasting is capped at 25 guests, with tickets ($15 per person) available for purchase online.  6801 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 932-0280, www.domaine547.com.

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Photo: Chaya Downtown. Credit: Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times