5 Questions for Roberto Berrelleza

Chef Roberto Berrelleza is chef-owner of Babita in San Gabriel. Once a manager maitre’d for the Hollywood Brown Derby, Berrelleza had been cooking up basic Mexican food -- tacos, burritos, menudo and posole -- for some time until he answered an internal culinary calling to feed Angelenos cuisine found in eateries around Mexico City. Leaving former staples behind, he added dishes such as chiles en nogada, mixiote (lamb shank) and chile relleno Oaxaqueno to the menu. On a day off away from the kitchen, you might find him in the Santa Ynez wine country.

What’s coming up next on your menu? Zucchini blossoms -- big, bright yellow -- blanched, shocked and made into a sauce with a white wine reduction, capers, onion, tomato and spicy chiltepin [pepper]. It's finished with a Spanish roux and goes over Mexican bass with a bed of huitlacoche en salsa.

Latest ingredient obsession? Prickly pear and gúamuchil [fruit]. I reduce juice from 20 pears down to one cup for a prickly pear crème brulee. As for the gúamuchil, I make it into a sauce that I use for venison or for filet mignon of pork, stuffed with nogada fruit, Wellington style.

What restaurant do you find yourself going to again and again? I love the shrimp crab omelette at Alcove Cafe on Hillhurst, and I keep going back, again and again, and still order the same thing. It's good and I can’t resist.

The one piece of kitchen equipment you can’t live without, other than your knives? If you promise not to laugh, I will tell you -- my ring molds. I use them in salads, guacamole, desserts, ceviche....

What’s your favorite breakfast? A toss-up between huevos rancheros, done the right way, and steak picado, with two eggs over easy on top.

Babita, 1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 288-7265.

ALSO:

'Sexy' tacos? Pico de Gap truck is rolling 

No need to take a hammer to your piloncillo

Illustrated Guide to Cocktails 

--Caitlin Keller

Photo: Roberto Berrelleza. Credit: Babita Mexicuisine

John Sedlar's new Rivera menu features 300 years' worth of culinary history and the sound bites to prove it [Updated]

John Sedlar, long known for his soulful Latin cooking, is introducing an equally soulful dining experience to his downtown restaurant, Rivera. Inspired by the rich history of Latin cuisine and the diversity of cultures that had a hand in creating it, Sedlar and the other cooks at Rivera embarked on an in-depth exploration of the varied roots of the Latin food that we enjoy in modern-day Los Angeles.

The result is a new menu, just released at Rivera, called "Conexiones." The menu draws culinary connections across 300 years and three continents, linking history with the present in food that draws its inspiration from locales including the Iberian Peninsula, South America, Mexico and California, as well as from cultures including the Moors, the Incas, the Mayans, the Aztecs and Angelenos.

The dishes are presented on special regional menus available in specific Rivera dining areas: Sangre (Iberian roots); Samba (South American, Central American and Caribbean influences); and Playa (mainly seafood that tips its hat to Mexico).

In addition, Sedlar has created a series of audio bites featuring his voice explaining the history, cultural context and preparation methods of particular dishes. The bites can be accessed by dialing a phone number on the menu (310-464-6884) and following the prompts based upon numerical coding beside each dish.

Called "Table Talk," this interactive feature showcases Sedlar's gift of gab--he is a good storyteller. It will also probably make guests aware of how far food has come since the historical times that they are learning about. After all, nothing says "Digital Era" like dialing up a story on your cellphone from your menu.

Hopefully the practice will jump-start conversation among guests at a table rather than end with a cursory Facebook and e-mail check. Don't be that person.

Rivera, 1050 S. Flower St., L.A. (213) 749-1460; www.riverarestaurant.com.

--Jessica Gelt

Photo: Rivera's tamale with braised pork short rib, hedgehog mushrooms and guajillo sauce. Credit: Ringo H.W. Chiu / For The Times

 

A Mexican food quiz, meatless Mondays, Happy Meal hoopla and more

--Even Mario is doing it. Going meatless on Mondays. He'll offer vegetarian friendly items on all his menus. [Huffington Post] 

--Blogspotting: The quarter-pound double chocolate cookies at Dawn Finicane's blog, Vanilla Sugar. Your Twip of the day: Follow Dawn @vanillakitchen

--Celebrate Cinco de Mayo with a margarita and a ... Mexican food quiz. Do you know your pico de gallo from your pozole? [Houston Chronicle]

--As the debate continues to rage over Happy Meals, a new dad pleads for a level playing field: "Given that obesity is leading to insanely skyrocketing healthcare costs which are draining our economy ... it seems we should examine why children need to be bribed with toys to eat food which causes diseases." [Wall Street Cheat Sheet] 

--Sushi at home is simple. Just skip the fish. [New York Times]

--Horticulture professor Jay Scott thinks he's created a variety of tomato that will taste just like a tomato any day of the year. [Washington Post]

--Rene Lynch
On Twitter @renelynch

Photo: The quarter-pound double chocolate cookies. Credit: Used by permission of Dawn Finicane

Sampler Platter: 15-year-old cheddar, pudding cloth, McCall's meat coming to Los Feliz, Google map for food trucks

Old cheese, new butchers, old school Scotch, nouveau tamales and more in today's food news roundup.

-- Foie gras and chanterelle tamales from John Sedlar of Rivera. Los Angeles Times magazine
-- Upscale butcher McCall's Meat & Fish Co. to open in Los Feliz. Food GPS
-- An appreciation of pudding cloth, whatever that is. British Food in America
-- Hook's unveils 15-year-old cheddar. NPR
-- Florida woman allegedly attacks boyfriend with uncooked steak. The Smoking Gun
-- Eggnog martinis at Lola's in West Hollywood. Banana Wonder
-- Food swaps are catching on. The Globe and Mail
-- New Zealand police reward good drivers with licorice logs. Stuff
-- A Google map that tracks food trucks. Finally! Food Maps
-- Win a Scotch whisky aroma nosing and tasting kit from the Balvenie.
-- Pix from the "Eat: Los Angeles" book party at Traveler's Bookcase. Blackburn + Sweetzer

-- Elina Shatkin

Photo: Hook's 15-year-old cheddar cheese. Credit: Mark Hoffman / Associated Press

Green chile blues

Who knew there were so many expat New Mexicans living in Southern California? Wednesday’s California Cook column on cooking with green chile drew almost 50 e-mails and that was just before lunch. Many of them were sharing memories of the Land of Enchantment, and many were sharing cooking tips, but I have to say that most of them were asking for recommendations for restaurants where they could find good New Mexican food around here.

And for that question, I’m afraid I had no good answer. In fact, this is something that makes me crazy: Why is it that every Southwest Airlines flight between here and Albuquerque is jammed to the rafters, yet there isn’t a single place in Southern California where you can get decent green chile? I know someone’s going to bring up that place in Fullerton and the only thing I can say is: Don’t bother. I’m not sure how you can do such simple food so badly, but you’d have to be really hungry for a sopapilla to go there. And I’m writing as someone who, on more than one occasion over the last 20 years, has been just that desperate.

So here’s a deal for some hungry Southern California cook: Open a good New Mexican restaurant and you can have my green chile enchilada recipe; you can have my calabacitas recipe; you can have my posole and green chile stew. And you can have my business on a regular basis. Just open the danged thing.

And judging from the amount of mail I got Wednesday, I probably won’t be the only customer you get.

-- Russ Parsons

Photo: Green chile enchiladas. Credit: Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times

Small Bites: Chichen Itza on 6th Street to close; Philippe plans October opening [U

Farewell to Chichen Itza: Yucatecan restaurant Chichen Itza on 6th Street in Westlake has announced that it is closing. In a send-off celebration, the restaurant will be offering free drinks and appetizers tonight from 6 to 8. For fans of the slow-roasted, achiote-and-Seville-orange-marinated cochinita pibil (and arguably the best habanero salsa in L.A.), all is not lost: The restaurant's original location at the Mercado la Paloma will remain open. Chef-owner Gilberto Cetina is extending hours there and now will be serving dinner. The new hours are 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekdays, and 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Chichen Itza in Westlake: 2501 W. 6th St., Los Angeles, (213) 380-0051. Chichen Itza in the Mercado La Paloma: 3655 S. Grand Ave. No. C6, Los Angeles, (213) 741-1075. www.chichenitzarestaurant.com.

Philippe sets opening date: Philippe Chow plans to open his latest outpost of Philippe -- a chain of upscale Chinese restaurants -- on Oct. 1 in the former Dolce space on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood. Chow recently was hit with a trademark lawsuit by his former employer, Michael Chow (a.k.a. Mr. Chow and no relation). The menu at the 175-seat restaurant will feature dishes such as chicken satay, Peking duck and spicy prawns.  8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 951-1100, www.philippechow.com.

-- Betty Hallock

Photo of Chichen Itza's cochinita pibil by Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times

Henry "Hank" Silva, longtime owner of Bill's Taco House, 1920-2009

Henry M. Silva, who owned South L.A. institution Bill's Taco House on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, died Friday of natural causes at his home in San Pedro.

He was 88. 

Silva bought the Taco House from its original owner in the '50s, and though friends knew him as Hank, customers assumed his name was Bill.

Silva grew up in the Central Valley, picking fruit and cotton. In 1939, he moved to Los Angeles, served in the Navy in World War II, then returned to L.A., working at various jobs. An insurance check after an injury helped him buy the Taco House, about a mile east of USC.

The Taco House taco is a seasoned hamburger patty, grilled and cut into three pieces, with a slice of "yellow" cheese, diced tomatoes, shredded lettuce and a spicy chili gravy in a fried taco shell. Like the tacos, the enchiladas are made with hamburger patties. Noted customers have included Barry White and Wilt Chamberlain.

A 2003 article in the Los Angeles Times revealed the three secrets to Taco House's longevity: "1. Being down with your peeps. 2. Keeping your prices low. 3. Gravy."

Silva sold the Taco House in 1985 but remained an active member of the community. A neighborhood Head Start school on East Martin Luther King Boulevard, the Silva Center, is named in his honor. 

-- Betty Hallock

Photo credit: Kevin P. Casey / Los Angeles Times

Sampler Platter: Brain tacos, badly named drinks, 48 hours in Baja

• Let's all go bananas with this Japanese TV spot! Good Food
• Gustavo Arellano of the OC Weekly wades into the simmering feud involving Deep End Dining blogger Eddie Lin, who accuses Grub Street LA of plagiarizing his earlier post on tacos sesos (brain tacos) at Carnitas Michoacan in Reseda.
• Julia Child's editor says the TV chef would not like "Julie & Julia" author. Slashfood
• Here are some badly named drinks and here are some drinks that are really bad for you.
• File under "Duh!" Apparently, food vendors use Twitter as a marketing tool. New York Times
• It isn't Bistro LQ. It isn't Suzpree. What is it? Blackburn + Sweetzer
• The 99 Cent Chef visits Jasmine Deli in Culver City.
• 48 hours in Baja from a foodie's POV. Street Gourmet LA, (no longer teenage) Glutster, Eating LA, Food GPS, Gourmet Pigs, Mattatouille, Squid Ink and others.
• Taco Bell chihuahua dies. LAT

--Elina Shatkin

Sampler Platter: Pez, caviar, tortas and Tijuana cuisine

Can you catch mad cow from fish? Where can you eat in Tijuana if you're not a drunk weekender? Can mannequins commit indecency? These questions and more answered in today's roundup of food news.

• Pez Candy Inc. sues Pez museum for copyright infringement. Laughing Squid 
• Teenage Glutster revels in Tijuana cuisine: smoked marlin tacos, abalone chorizo sopes, apple-guava tart and more.
• The mascot for an Ohio BBQ restaurant can continue to wear her halter top. Dayton Daily News 
• Petrossian is revived: more than just caviar. Gourmet Pigs
• Whole Foods will submit its private label products to testing for genetically engineered organisms. New Mexico Business Weekly 
• Hudson House: $10-and-under gastropub in Redondo Beach. Caroline On Crack 
• Scientists worry about mad cow disease from farmed fish that are fed cow byproducts. Reuters
• LA.foodblogging visits Cook's Tortas in Monterey Park.
• Obama administration vows to toughen food safety standards. Wall Street Journal

--Elina Shatkin

Photo: Deviled eggs topped with caviar. Credit: Robert Lachman / Los Angeles Times

Nuevo Mexico is open for business in Portland, Ore.

Since writing a story about the convergence of rock music and foodie culture, I've gotten quite a few e-mails pointing me in the direction of further examples of musicians-turned-chefs. And just now a friend sent me a link to an episode of Vendr.TV that chronicles street-food-fanatic host Dan Delaney, testing  the food served at the food cart Nuevo Mexico in downtown Portland, Ore. I mentioned the cart, which was opened by former Shins drummer Jesse Sandoval, in my story but wasn't aware that it was already open.

In the clip, Sandoval appears in the window of his little bright red-and-yellow trailer, handing sopapillas to customers, expounding on the importance of chilies to New Mexican cooking and talking about his newfound understanding of the "food cart subculture."

In a post about the video, the music-news website Pitchfork takes note of the fact that in the clip the Shins is never mentioned. Either Delaney didn't realize how important the band was (not likely), or Sandoval is sensitive about his dismissal from the band (likely).

-- Jessica Gelt

Photo: The Shins, with ex-drummer Jesse Sandoval at right

Credit: Brian Tamborello