Ruth Reichl stunned by Gourmet's end

In his story on Conde Nast's decision to shut down the nation's oldest major food magazine, Russ Parsons quotes the magazine's editor (and former L.A. Times Food editor and restaurant critic) Ruth Reichl as saying she found out the news only this morning.

"I can't talk about it now, it's too raw. I've got to pack up my office," she said.

There had been some recent speculation about the magazine's difficulties, particularly given the fact that Conde Nast also owns Gourmet's chief competitor, Los Angeles-based Bon Appetit. Not only did Bon Appetit have more readers, according to recent statistics from the magazines' media kits, Gourmet had circulation of 950,000 copies while Bon Appetit had 1.3 million readers. Additionally, Gourmet had a reputation of being a very expensive magazine to run, featuring long articles by well-known writers while Bon Appetit was focused on much more economical, recipe-driven content.

But in retrospect, there were clear signs that all was not well when Reichl did a recent radio interview with Larry Mantle on KPCC-FM (89.3). "We're struggling just like everyone else," she said. "It's ironic because our circulation has never been higher. And yet advertising dollars are a challenge."

Still, she put on a hopeful front: "I have to say that in the last week it felt like the recession ended. I mean, suddenly, our advertising picture literally in the last week changed really dramatically and ads started flooding in. It's really very exciting."

But for most of its readers, the idea of a food world without Gourmet to describe it is almost unthinkable.

Gourmet magazine to end its run

 

Magazine empire Conde Nast, home of Vogue and the New Yorker, will announce the closure of Gourmet this morning, according to a report in the New York Times, which calls the move "startling."

Like many other media companies, Conde Nast is facing difficult times. In the not-so-distant past, it shuttered shopping magazine Domino and folded Men's Vogue into a twice-yearly supplement to Vogue. But so far, victims of its contractions have been newer titles.

With Gourmet apparently at the end of its run, that has changed.

Read more at The Times' Jacket Copy blog.

Photo: Gourmet magazine September 2009 issue/Conde Nast.

Kogi truck rides on to more accolades; Viet Noodle Bar makes the Bon Appetit grade

The Kogi truck is one food trend that shows no sign of stalling out.

Kogi truck founders Caroline Shin-Manguera, Mark Manguera, and Roy Choi have been honored with a Bon Appetit award "for being true innovators as grassroots guerrilla restaurateurs."

When it comes to the intersection of food and technology, we love following Kogi, L.A.'s Korean barbecue taco truck; each day, fans are alerted to its location via Twitter and the blog kogibbq.com. Founded by Mark Manguera, Caroline Shin-Manguera, and Roy Choi, Kogi is for the kalbi lover on the go. With the grill helmed by pedigreed executive chef Choi, expect multi-culti innovative weekly specials like Brie-stuffed French toast and kimchi puerco pupusas in addition to stalwarts like short-rib tacos and spicy beef tacos. Not in the mood to track down the truck? Kogi has found a bricks-and-mortar home in Culver City's Alibi Room. But we love Kogi most of all for bringing high-concept, creative cuisine directly to the streets. Find out the rest of the winners of the 12th Annual Bon Appetit Awards here.

Also in the Bon Appetit spotlight: The Viet Noodle Bar tops its list of the nation's Top 10 noodle joints:

For many, their first taste of Vietnamese food is pho. This satisfying soup is made with various meats, seafood, and rice noodles. At this Atwater Village noodle bar, pho comes topped with ingredients like organic chicken and cilantro. 3133 Glendale Boulevard; 323-906-1575; vietnoodlebar.com

--Rene Lynch

Photo: the Kogi truck; credit: Barbara Davidson / Los Angeles Times

Bacon makes everything better. Even bundt cake.

You know we love our bacon around here. Just today, The Times' test kitchen staff was selflessly researching a maple bacon bundt cake -- yes, you read that right, a maple bacon bundt cake -- from Kiss My Bundt* in West Hollwood.

Of course, we are not alone in our bacon obsession. Check out this Time magazine story on this food trend that just won’t go away. (Thank goodness.)

* And check back next week at the Daily Dish for more on this little gem of a bakery.

-- Rene Lynch

Photo credit: Noelle Carter

8 food events you should know about: Summer festival weekend edition

FRIDAY

Wines of the people Join James Beard award-winning wine importer Terry Theise for a tasting of boutique Champagnes made by farmers (he calls them "Farmer Fizz") as well as a selection of Rieslings from a single vineyard. Pourtal Wine Tasting Bar, 104 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica. 5 to 8 p.m. $33 for a flight of three. (310) 393-7693. www.pourtal.com.

Eating downtown Celebrate the downtown renaissance with the "Taste of dtownLA" festival. A feast cooked by downtown restaurants Magnolia, Provecho, Remedy, Maria's Italian Kitchen, Urth Caffe, the Daily Grill, Takami, Rock 'n Fish, Gram and Papas and Wokano will help celebrate the launch of dtownLA.com, which dubs itself "the only online fashion and lifestyle publication catering to downtown residents." There will also be cocktails and a silent auction benefiting the Midnight Mission. Brunswick Studio, 843 S. Los Angeles St., L.A. Food tasting, 6 to 9:30 p.m., tickets $40. Launch party, 10:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. $40, alcohol included. www.dtownla.com.

SATURDAY

Deepak thoughts If you've wondered what kind of mystical calm Deepak Chopra lives in, you can find out at a dinner hosted at his 2-acre Palos Verdes estate, which is fashioned after a Tuscan villa. "Dancing With the Stars" dancer Jonathan Roberts will show off his moves and chef Enrico Glaudo of Frascati Ristorante in Rolling Hills Estates will prepare an Italian-themed menu of pizza, quiche, pork medallions, caprese salad and more. Proceeds benefit the nonprofit Palos Verdes Art Center. Time and address provided with reservation. (310) 541-2479. www.pvartcenter.org.

Cajun fun It's time for the 16th-annual Long Beach Crawfish festival featuring dancing, live Cajun, Brazilian and Zydeco music as well as plenty of delicious crawfish, red baby potatoes, corn on the cob and remoulade dipping sauce. Rainbow Lagoon, 400-403 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach. Sat. noon to 11 p.m.; Sun. noon to 10 p.m. $13 in advance, $15 at the gate. www.longbeachcrawfishfestival.com.

Tasting San Pedro Another festival is upon us: the 21st-annual Taste in San Pedro, which features food and drink from many of the area's favorite restaurants as well as live music, dancing, fireworks, face painting, photo booths and a Ferris wheel with gorgeous ocean views. Point Fermin Park at Gaffey and Paseo del Mar, San Pedro. Sat. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. $10, adults; $7 seniors; $5 children 6 to 17. (310) 832-7272. www.tasteinsanpedro.com.

Sharpest knife in the drawer Get your knives, scissors and garden tools professionally sharpened while you shop at Red Carpet Wine & Spirits Merchants. They'll have a pro on hand in the parking lot and during that time you'll also get 10% off your purchases. Red Carpet Wine & Spirit Merchants, 400 E. Glenoaks Blvd., Glendale. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Knives $5, scissors $8, gardening tools $6 to $9. (818) 247-5544.

Cooking at the market Join JoAnn Cianciulli, the author of "L.A.'s Original Farmers Market Cookbook," for a showcase of her summer grilling recipes. She'll heat up the grill to make grilled barbecue chicken pizza, skirt steak tacos and avocado-corn salsa. Samples will go out to the crowd and she'll sign copies of her new book "Barbecues Galore." Farmers Market Plaza, 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A. 5 to 7 p.m. Free.

SUNDAY

Brunch for singles If you're looking for Mr. or Ms. Right, you may enjoy the "Stylish & Single in the City" brunch at Catherine Malandrino Cafe. Celebrity stylist Marcella Reynolds will be there to dish out advice on appearance so wear or bring a photo of your favorite outfit for dates, and "dating expert" Evan Marc Katz will provide mini-consultations to the first 15 RSVPs. A complimentary 100-calorie TY KU cocktail will be served with brunch, so you can get boozy and watch your figure all at once. Catherine Malandrino Cafe, 651-653 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. $30. (310) 652-0078.

-- Jessica Gelt

Photo: A pile of shellfish rubble sits on the table where seafood lovers spend the evening shucking crawfish, crab and shrimp at the Boiling Crab, a popular Little Saigon eatery. Credit: Los Angeles Times  

Oxymoron department: Healthful fast food?

Last week I ran across this interesting, albeit baffling, "restaurant report card" in Men's Health magazine. (I read it for the pictures.) The report card grades America's most popular fast-food chains according to how healthful their food is. Huh? Apparently my long-held belief that fast food is, by its very nature, unhealthful, isn't exactly accurate.

According to Matt Goulding, the report card's author and the man partially behind last year's zeitgeisty non-diet diet book, "Eat This, Not That," certain chains actually deliver food that won't send your blood pressure to Mars, and your thighs to the local big-and-tall shop. The catch being that you need to know what to order.

Goulding breaks down the restaurants accordingly:

Cook's Illustrated: Vanilla smackdown

Cook's Illustrated is a favorite among cooks for its practical, no-fuss, no-muss approach to food. For one, there are no ads. Also, with the exception of soft, natural colors on the front and back covers, the magazine is completely black and white. Inside, recipes are deconstructed and reconstructed to make them as fast and easy as possible, but without sacrificing taste (Kinda like a Consumer Reports for food and recipes). Another popular feature is the taste tests that, not surprisingly, often result in the blue ribbon going to a brand or product that is the least expensive one out there.

But the latest taste test, in the March/April issue, seemed almost sacrilegious: Cook's Illustrated found that there was no discernible difference between real or imitation vanilla when used for baking. Here's the article, which would normally be found behind Cook's Illustrated's pay wall, but they kindly agreed to let us use it here temporarily.

Read it and tell us what you think.

Can you tell the difference between real and imitation vanilla? Do you keep one, or both, on hand? If you're looking to conduct your own taste test at home -- in the interest of research! -- here are some dessert recipes to choose from, including two L.A. Times test kitchen recipes that call for vanilla extract: Tall and creamy cheesecake and Auntie Em's coconut cupcakes.

-- Rene Lynch

FOR THE RECORD: An earlier version of this post said that all the images in the magazine were drawn. Wrong! They are black-and-white photos.

Photo credit: Los Angeles Times