The team behind cozy Bar Covell in Los Feliz has opened a new craft beer-and-wine bar in Highland Park called the Hermosillo. The new addition to the neighborhood, which is located in the former Hermosillo Club and is just a stone's throw from York Boulevard's other trendy bars, the York and Johnny's, makes for a trifecta of gentrified cool in the area. (I know, I know ... it just keeps spreading.)
The new Hermosillo kept the old Hermosillo's sign, which features a smokin' hottie in minimal clothing. It's a canny decision that adds a bit of grit to the bar, which is otherwise pretty sleek with polished concrete floors; mustard-colored banquettes; a flat screen TV turned to sports; a sparse bar and a smattering of old Mexican movie posters.
The bartenders are friendly and knowledgeable and happy to dole out a few tastes from the list of 18 red wines (mostly from Mexico, South America, Spain and California) and a comparable amount of white varieties.
The beer list is small but good (Eagle Rock, Stone and North Coast Brewing Co.'s are all represented) and projected behind the bar by a blurry old-school projector.
There's no food at this point, but when I was there (with my mom -- yes, you can!) the Grilled Cheese Truck was parked beside the wide-open windows out front and the bartenders circulated menus to every customer.
The Hermosillo, 5125 York Blvd., Highland Park. (323) 739-6459; www.facebook.com/thehermosillo.
Photo: Jessica Gelt / Los Angeles Times