Daily Dish

The inside scoop on food in Los Angeles

Category: Cookware

Online warehouse sale at Cube Marketplace

Bev_hisey_ant_picnic_blanket._2__18056_stdOn the Cube Marketplace website, now is the time for their second annual online warehouse sale with most items 40% off. That means a quirky Biv Hisey picnic blanket embroidered with ants (the back has spaces to zip in three cushions). Originally $300, it's now $180. But also aged balsamic vinegars at a steep discount, wood cutting boards, hand-printed tea towels, special salts (applewood-smoked sea salt, pink Peruvian ancient ocean salt, whole spices, ceramics, Pantelleria capers, and more.

I'm partial to the FUZ grey felt egg flat or their "winepocket." Ah, but here's some of that terrificly fragrant dried oregano from Sicily reduced to $8.40 from $14. And if you're in dire need of asparagus vinegar or beer vinegar from Lower Austria, they've got it. Good for stumping pretentious self-described gourmets. Who would guess what went into your vinaigrette?

A line of spices from Le Sanctuaire, which had a posh Santa Monica store before the Espresso-spoons__31175_std owners moved the business to San Francisco, are on sale, too, including saffron from Iran. A set of six Maarten Baptist espresso spoons from the Netherlands is now $20.40, marked down from $34.

And get this, Rancho Gordo beans are on sale, too. Never seen that. Borlotti, limas, cattle beans, pebble beans, quinoa, etc. for $3.30 instead of $5.50. Time to stock up.

I could use everything and anything. But what do I really need? Carnaroli rice. They've got that, too. And some of Robert Lambert's white ginger or yuzu syrup. 

Done.

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For making quesadillas: a black clay comal

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Fried chicken, five ways

-- S. Irene Virbila

Twitter.com/sirenevirbila

Photos: picnic blanket and espresso spoons. Courtesy of Cube Marketplace.

For making quesadillas: a black clay comal

A black clay comalWhen I ordered my La Chamba black clay bean pot a few weeks ago, I also ordered a comal in the same all-natural clay. That has turned out to be a beauty for heating tortillas.

They come in two sizes, 12- or 13-inch diameter. I went with the larger and I’m glad I did, because I can fit three or four tortillas on its slightly curved surface at a time. Though it’s only made of clay, this comal can take the heat of my gas burner.

I’ve also discovered it makes beautiful quesadillas. I generally give one side of the tortilla a light spritz of olive oil, then lay it on the comal and add the fillings.

For lunch today, it was Making a quesadilla in a clay comal Monterey Jack cheese with thinly sliced squash blossom, epazote and a roasted tomatillo salsa. The tortilla cooks to a deep, crisp gold. And if you spray on the oil, it’s never greasy.

The comal is also great for roasting chiles or tomatillos too. Because of its concave shape, though, it’s best used on gas stoves.

The comal is available from Toque Blanche in Half Moon Bay at www.MyToque.com; (650) 726-2898. The 12-inch Chamba comal is on sale right now for $29.95, the 13-inch, which I bought, for $39.95.

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-- S. Irene Virbila
Twitter.com/sirenevirbila

Photos: Comal, top, and squash blossom quesadilla. Credit: S. Irene Virbila / Los Angeles Times

For summer sandwiches: Shun Classic U2 Ultimate Utility Knife

Shun knife (1 of 1)My husband was in Sur La Table the other day, looking at knives, his big weakness in the cookware category. He overheard a French chef raving to the clerk about a Japanese knife on special. "This is a fantastic knife," he told her. "Everywhere else, it’s over $150 -- and you’re selling it for $79.95? How many have you got?”

My husband, of course, sidled over to inspect the knife. Made by Shun, the renowned Japanese knife company, the Classic U2 Ultimate Utility Knife, has a serrated curved blade, the better to rock against the cutting board.

He couldn’t resist the bargain and brought one home. This is the perfect sandwich knife. It cuts right through thick crusts and won’t rip up the sandwich or the tomatoes in the process. It can also slice and dice with the best of them. Use the broad tip to spread on mayonnaise or mustard. 

The 6-inch steel blade is clad in Damascus stainless steel and it has an ebony handle made of a resin and hardwood fusion. Technically, it’s dishwasher safe, but with a knife of this quality hand washing is preferable.

Normally, $155 at Sur La Table, it's on special now in the stores and online (with free shipping) for $79.95. (Elsewhere, the price ranges from $99.95 to $175.)

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-- S. Irene Virbila

Twitter.com/sirenevirbila

Photos: The Shun Classic U2 Ultimate Utility Knife. Credit: S. Irene Virbila / Los Angeles Times

Readers weigh in on my vintage Proctor-Silex JuicIt

Juicit ONE (1 of 1)Who knew that the Proctor-Silex JuicIt I found on eBay was such a cult item? After I wrote about my hunt for one these vintage juicers, emails and even a snail mail or two kept coming to expound further on the virtues of the Juicit.

“A new Proctor Silex Juicit was one of the first things we purchased 23 years ago when we moved from L.A. to northern San Diego County and our new home set amidst 400 orange trees. I have personally squeezed about two pitchers per week for the past two decades -- and still it performs well.  That's about 2,300 pitchers,” writes one reader.

A reader from Pacific Palisades tells me: “Mine was a wedding gift in 1976. It's beat-up looking and a bit corroded, but still works well. This time of year it gets a workout taking care of the profusion of oranges on my backyard tree (two months' worth of fresh-squeezed joy). “

Another in Santa Barbara, writes: “I had a JuicIt back in the '70s, one that I used to make my daily fresh orange juice without ever a hitch. I remember juicing a crate of oranges in one sitting for a brunch party during which I was going to serve Mimosas.  

Anyway, over time and with moving, I lost my JuicIt.... And then, about two years ago, I found a JuicIt at a garage sale. I found another one, but without the porcelain reamer. I bought it anyway so I would have a spare in case the first motor ever ran down.... I continue to go to garage sales, hoping to find at least one or two more of these treasures, not to hoard them, but to make sure that I will have at least one more spare, and hopefully to be able to give one to each of my kids when they establish their own households. “ 

He has a bone to pick with me, though. “You have now told the world what a treasure the JuicIt truly is.  What this means is that people will hold on to their JuicIts, not put them up at garage sales, or charge exorbitant prices to get them off of the Internet. Though all that you said is true, perhaps you could retract your column, claim that the JuicIt is old technology, and tout the benefits of electronic-based plastic juicers. At least until I can find just two more.”

Sorry, no can do.

Someone else sent in this testimonial: “I have been using the same model for decades and love it.  I started having trouble with it 15 years ago, so I took it apart and put in new grease and all was fine.  The motor is very big, and that is why it works so well. I, like you, picked up a spare one on eBay about 9 years ago just in case mine ever stopped working, but so far I haven't needed it.”

I’m stunned at the number of passionate JuicIt devotees out there. Sorry, holding on to mine now that I’ve got it. (And looking for a spare.)

A couple of readers, though, had backup juicers to recommend, namely the Black & Decker Citrus Mate Plus and the Waring Pro.

The most recent letter is from a reader seconding my championing of the JuicIt, but wondering how to solve the problem of juicing pomegranate?

Anybody out there have the perfect juicer for that?

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-- S. Irene Virbila
Twitter.com/sirenevirbila

Photos: vintage Proctor-Silex juicer. Credit: S. Irene Virbila/Los Angeles Times.

All natural: La Chamba black clay pots

La ChambaThis is where the Internet leads you. I saw these great looking black clay mugs on a design site, I truly can't remember where, but more than one place. I loved the rustic hand-built shape and the sheen of the black, burnished clay. I found out they were made in Colombia in a way that dates back 700 years. The pottery is all natural -- unglazed and with no lead in the clay. The handmade pottery can be used on the stovetop, in the oven and the microwave. But shouldn't go into the dishwasher.

And while I didn’t turn up those exact mugs (the closest cost $30 apiece, which I am not going to spend for a mug), I did come across a site, Toque Blanche, selling all sorts of La Chamba cookware, including comals for heating tortillas, handsome casseroles and soup and bean pots. The next thing I knew I was ordering a soup pot, standing in the kitchen with a measuring tape and a couple of likely bowls in order to visualize the size of each model.

When confronted with a choice, I always go for the largest. My husband tried to interject some sense. Just how many beans are you going to cook at a time? Not for me the mini, or even the small versions. They felt, well, stingy in size. In the end, I went with the medium, which purportedly held 3 1/2 quarts. 

I liked its fat belly and the handles like stubby wings.

The pot came yesterday and the medium is big, as in BIG. The site’s measurements seem to be that of the opening, not the diameter of the full-bellied pot. It’s quite handsome and I’m thinking perfect as a soup tureen, and because both husband and I are under the weather, he decided to make a pot of soup. I’ll let you know how that goes.

La Chamba Soup pot, medium, $59.95 from La Toque online. They also have beautiful little salsa dishes, salad and fruit bowls, and an array of other black clay cookware.

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-- S. Irene Virbila

twitter.com/sirenevirbila

Photos: La Chamba bean pot. Credit: S. Irene Virbila / Los Angeles Times

 

La ChambaThis is where the Internet leads you. I saw these great looking black clay mugs on a design site, I truly can't remember where, but more than one place. I loved the rustic hand-built shape and the sheen of the black, burnished clay. I found out they were made in Colombia in a way that dates back 700 years. The pottery is all natural -- unglazed and with no lead in the clay. The handmade pottery can be used on the stovetop, in the oven and the microwave. But shouldn't go into the dishwasher.

And while I didn’t turn up those exact mugs (the closest cost $30 apiece, which I am not going to spend for a mug), I did come across a site, Toque Blanche, selling all sorts of La Chamba cookware, including comals for heating tortillas, handsome casseroles and soup and bean pots. The next thing I knew I was ordering a soup pot, standing in the kitchen with a measuring tape and a couple of likely bowls in order to visualize the size of each model.

When confronted with a choice, I always go for the largest. My husband tried to interject some sense. Just how many beans are you going to cook at a time? Not for me the mini, or even the small versions. They felt, well, stingy in size. In the end, I went with the medium, which purportedly held 3 1/2 quarts. 

I liked its fat belly and the handles like stubby wings.

The pot came yesterday and the medium is big, as in BIG. The site’s measurements seem to be that of the opening, not the diameter of the full-bellied pot. It’s quite handsome and I’m thinking perfect as a soup tureen, and because both husband and I are under the weather, he decided to make a pot of soup. I’ll let you know how that goes.

La Chamba Soup pot, medium, $59.95 from La Toque online. They also have beautiful little salsa dishes, salad and fruit bowls, and an array of other black clay cookware.

ALSO:

Chat with Mr. Gold

Found! Vintage juicer

First Impression: End of Communism at Rivera

-- S. Irene Virbila

twitter.com/sirenevirbila

Photos: La Chamba bean pot. Credit: S. Irene Virbila / Los Angeles Times

 

Golden State-shaped cutting boards

Cutting board 600

A Brooklyn-based husband-and-wife design duo made state-shaped cutting boards for their wedding last year and, after lots of oohs and aahs, decided to turn their craft into a business venture on Etsy.

The cutting boards are made from Plyboo, a butcher block architectural plywood made from 100% rapidly renewable bamboo. They can be cut to resemble any state -- even Maryland (see below) -- featuring a heart engraved over wherever you call home. Sold for $40 each, the boards can be purchased at etsy.com/shop/AHeirloom. Maryland

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-- Caitlin Keller

Photo credits: Amy Stringer-Mowat

Canning It: Working under pressure

Pressure Canner by Rachael Narins
When most people think of canning, they think of boiling water canning; taking food that has been placed in jars and boiling it for a recommended amount of time to make it last.

When you make fruit jam or pickles that way, you have something to eat and perhaps some handsome gifts to give away. But there are limitations to what can be boiling water processed and you can’t really feed your family on jelly and pickles. This is where pressure canning comes in.

Pressure canners (which are different than pressure cookers) are huge industrial-looking pots that have clamps and gauges, weights and valves and 12-page instruction manuals that are downright intimidating.  But don’t let that stop you. It’s simpler thank you think. All you have to do is follow the directions.

Continue reading »

Which tagines are best for cooking?

Ourika_cooking_tagineI’ve been on a Moroccan tear in my cooking lately and coveting one of the traditional Moroccan tagine pots from a source I found on Paula Wolfert’s website, www.paula-wolfert.com.

Tagines, both the Moroccan dish and the vessel it’s cooked in, have become fashionable of late. And frankly, I’ve seen some awkward contemporary renditions of the traditional conical-lidded casserole. Even in Morocco, there’s a distinction between tagines used for cooking and those fancier ones reserved for serving the fragrant stews of chicken or lamb.

Tagines by BTC has the pots in many different styles, some typical of a certain region and all quite reasonably priced. Their glazes are all lead-free. I’ve got my eye on the Ourika cooking tagine, described as “the preferred tagine in the souks of Marrakesh.” I’m wondering about the size, though: it’s 9 inches wide and serves two ($24, plus shipping). Hmm.

Then maybe the wonky, hand-formed Rifi cooking tagine, “our preferred unglazed tagine of Northern Morocco and Spain,” which is a little bigger at 11 inches wide. There’s one even larger from the Middle Atlas mountains called the Mellali tagine. Both are $28 each, plus shipping. The site also has four styles of decorated tagines that are used only as serving dishes.

Continue reading »

Slow cooking, Zimbabwe-style

Hotbox1

Last week's slow cooker article garnered a lot of reader response, and my e-mail in-box was flooded with a ton of letters (still wading through all of them, sorry if I haven't responded yet!).

Hotbox2 One of the letters was from Mike White in Zimbabwe. He writes about using what he calls a slow cooking "hot box," pictured above. He uses a cardboard box (or the large enameled bowl pictured) in which he places a large pillow. In a separate lidded cooking pot, food is brought to a boil for maybe 10 minutes, depending on what is being prepared. It is then placed on a mat over the pillow (the place mat keeps the pillow from scorching, he says.) A tea towel goes over the lidded pot, which is then topped off by another pillow to retain heat while the contents slowly cook. Mike says the pot will still steam after three or four hours, cooking everything from beans to tough meat stews beautifully.

And he notes the practicality of using the hot box:

Continue reading »

Freeze! It's a challenge from Egullet

What's in your freezer?

When a challenge from Egullet to go cold-turkey on grocery shopping landed in my in-box, I found myself answering the culinary call-to-arms out loud:

"Do you spend $100 a week on groceries?" YES!! "If so, we have a plan to put that $100 back in your pocket quicker than you can say 'stimulus.' " ALL RIGHT!! "Join me in a week without shopping, as we feast on the bounty of our refrigerators, freezers and pantries." I WILL!!

The idea is to forgo your grocery shopping for one week and pocket the savings. Instead, forage in your pantry, freezer and refrigerator to piece together meals from the long-forgotten bounty: the hodgepodge of frozen pork parts, the half-empty box of macaroni, the unopened jar of salsa.

Think of it as the ultimate Top Chef quick-fire challenge with Rice-a-Roni and canned tuna. I’m a bit of a freezer junkie myself. Right now mine is home to several dozen stray cookies (household baking rule: half the batch must be saved for later), homemade pasta sauces (re-warming instructions included should my husband feel the sudden urge for spaghetti), and a growing collection of chicken livers (I suppose for last-minute Tuscan chicken liver crostini, but I’m not really sure).

Full steam ahead for a week of shortbread crostini a la Bolognese!

And be sure to check out Egullet's post regarding "some simple rules” to abide by. Hmmm. Could they be concerned I might eat that frozen brisket from 2002?

--Jenn Garbee

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