Santa's feeling crabby!

I'm a sucker for Christmas traditions, but my all-time favorite is my family's Christmas Eve Dungeness crab feast. Somehow there's nothing that better expresses the simple pleasures of Christmas in California than a big pot of crabs and many bottles of champagne.

We keep it to just immediate family -- my daughter and her boyfriend, my brother- and sister-in-law and my wife and me. And we keep the menu simple -- when you've got great crab, all you need is a little something to nibble on first (sliced sausage, toasted almonds and Okie b-i-l's Rotel cheese dip), a good green salad and lots of Christmas cookies, persimmons and Kishu mandarins after.

One of my favorite parts of the meal is the shopping. This year, I went to the 99 Ranch in Gardena that's fairly near me. The scene was a panorama of California's Christmas celebrations -- the guy in line before me was a Nigerian buying live tilapia (to steam with red peppers, he told me); the Asian guy behind me was negotiating with his cute little boy, Giovanni, about whether to buy two crabs and two lobsters, or all crab, or all lobsters (oddly, Dungeness crab and Maine lobsters were exactly the same price this year); and the lady in front of me in the checkout line was an Australian buying oysters and lobster to make some kind of ceviche -- she wasn't quite sure exactly how but said she'd "follow the inspiration."

And a merry Cali Christmas to you too!

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-- Russ Parsons

Photo credit: Russ Parsons / Los Angeles Times

Holiday restaurant roundup: Even more

Last week we listed several restaurants around L.A. that are keeping their doors open for anyone wanting to dine out this holiday season. Whether you're looking to keep it laid back with Chinese food and a movie or jazz it up with a prix-fixe menu, there's something for everyone. Here are even more restaurants to add to our previously posted restaurant roundup:

Ink: On New Year's Eve, Michael Voltaggio's recently opened restaurant is offering a five-course tasting menu for $125, with the option of beverage pairings for an additional $75. For more information call (323) 651-5866. 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 651-5866, mvink.com.

The Foundry on Melrose: The restaurant is celebrating Christmas Eve differently than most, with Chinese food and movies. Get your fix of egg rolls, chicken mu shu, empress soup and Chinese broccoli while feasting your eyes on two films that will be chosen by diners who vote via Facebook beforehand. (In the running are "The Goonies," "Indiana Jones" and "Trading Places.") Christmas Eve dinner and a movie costs $39 per person. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 651-0915, thefoundryonmelrose.com.

Rustic Canyon: The wine bar and seasonal kitchen will be closed Christmas Eve and day but will be open New Year's Eve. Diners will choose eight of fifteen menu options to be shared, family-style, by the table at $85 per person. A warm lobster salad and pork belly confit with crispy collard greens and Anson Mills grits are among the offerings. 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 393-7050, rusticcanyonwinebar.com.

Terranea Resort: The oceanfront hotel in Rancho Palos Verdes has three options for dining this New Year's Eve. Its signature restaurant, Mar'sel, will offer a prix-fixe menu with selections like truffle-poached oysters and terrine of Sonoma foie gras, while those looking for dancing and music can head to the ballroom, which will be stocked with food and bar stations, not to mention champagne. Families celebrating together can fill up on butter-poached Maine lobster and a roasted rack of lamb, among other dishes, at Catalina Kitchen's buffet. The price for Mar'sel's first seating is $95 per person, and for the second, $145; the ballroom celebration is $50 per person; and the buffet is $89 per person. 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, (310) 265-2836, terranea.com.

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-- Caitlin Keller

Photo credit: Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times

Christmas and New Year's restaurant roundup

Looking to celebrate Christmas and New Year's out on the town? Whether you're in the mood for caviar and truffles, prime rib, roasted leg of lamb, crab salad, sushi or a pizza party, several restaurants are here to help with the festivities: 

Bäco Mercat: The new downtown restaurant from chef Josef Centeno is celebrating Christmas Eve and New York's Eve with family-style dinners. On Christmas Eve, braised beef shank comes with a stack of bäco flatbreads, salad and sides for $75 and serves two to four people. On the New Year's Eve menu is suckling pig with bäco breads, salad and sides for $80 and serves two. Call for reservations. 408 S. Main St., Los Angeles, (213) 687-8808, www.bacomercat.com.

BOA Steakhouse: The Sunset Strip steakhouse will feature menu specials such as prime rib and whole branzino on Christmas Eve. For New Year’s Eve, the restaurant will have live entertainment with a DJ,four-course prix-fixe menu and two seatings: 6:30 ($95) and 9:30 p.m. ($165). The Santa Monica location offeres a “surf & turf” NYE menu ($75) including dishes such as pan-seared scallops with truffled foie gras risotto with a wild mushroom demi-glace, smoked chipotle, coffee-braised prime short ribs with snow crab cluster and strawberry honey biscuit shortcake with white chocolate cream. 9200 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 278-2050, 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 899-4466,  boasteak.com.

Border Grill: Celebrate New Year's Mexican style at Border Grill. For $55 per person, a four-course dinner includes spicy crab taco, smoked mussel ceviche tostadita, coriander-roasted leg of lamb and more. Optional margarita and wine pairings. The a la carte menu will also be available. 445 S. Figueroa St.,  Los Angeles, (213) 486-5171, and 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1655; bordergrill.com.

Cafe del Rey: Ring in 2012 seaside at Café del Rey with a three-course prix-fixe menu centered on fresh seafood. Some menu highlights include lobster thermidor with brandy and hollandaise sauce, and Wagyu beef tartare with black currants and olives. Additional New Year’s Eve specials such as duck confit crostini and truffle risotto will also be available. The first seating begins at 5:30 ($65 per person), and the second at 8:30 p.m. ($95 per person, including a glass of sparkling wine). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, (310) 823-6395, www.cafedelreymarina.com.

Cecconi's: Dinner at Cecconi's this New Year's Eve is a black-tie affair. The restaurant is serving an elegant four-course dinner at $235 per person. For the first course, diners can choose between cream of parsnip soup with white truffle, corn Madeleine with crème fraîche and caviar, or hamachi tartare in a plantain cone. The next courses range from smoked ahi tuna carpaccio with blood orange and wild fennel pollen to wood-roast spicy rock lobster, clams and saffron guazzetto. For dessert, chocolate fondant with coconut gelato, panettone delizia with warm Moscato zabaglione or torrone semifreddo with pistachio sauce.  Reservations are available for 8 p.m. and will secure your table for dinner and DJ until 2012. 8764 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (310) 432-2000, www.cecconiswesthollywood.com.

Chaya: Chaya's three restaurants -- in Beverly Hills, downtown L.A. and Venice -- are hosting themed New Year's Eve soirées that include "Midnight in Paris," "New York Nights" and "Mardi Gras Carnival." Each destination will feature prix-fixe menus, live entertainment and midnight toasts. In downtown L.A., experience New York with live jazz and Chaya's signature Euro-Asian cuisine with a "bonsai box" of big-eye tuna sushi, Kumamoto oyster and sea urchin shooter and a Moroccan-spiced maple leaf duck salad. 525 S. Flower St., L.A., (213) 236-9577, thechaya.com.

City Tavern: This craft beer bar in Culver City will be hosting “Brew Year's Eve.” From 10 p.m. to 1:30 a.m., patrons can drink unlimited beer, wine and Champagne for $68 per person. A reduced price of $56 is extended to guests with a dinner reservation. In addition, booths accommodating six to eight people can be reserved for $100 per person. 9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, (310) 838-9739, www.citytavernculvercity.com.

Drago Centro: On Christmas Eve, Drago Centro is celebrating with the feast of seven fishes. The seven- course menu is $70 per person with optional wine pairings for an additional $40. Dishes include Blue Point oyster with red currant pearls, crab salad with fennel and pomegranate seeds, Maine lobster cappuccino and more. 525 S. Flower St., Suite 120, Los Angeles, www.dragocentro.com.

Fig and Olive: New Year's Eve dinner is meant to evoke the French Riviera with Fig and Olive’s four-course prix-fixe menu at $150 per person. Each guest will be greeted with a complimentary glass of Moët & Chandon Champagne and a set of white and gold party favors to celebrate the New Year. Diners can savor grilled langoustine de San Sebastian with artichoke tapenade and smoked pimentón olive oil and fig foie gras terrine with pear chutney and Pedro Ximenez reduction. After dinner, dance in the restaurant until 2 a.m. with DJ Julien Nolan. 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, (310) 360-9100, figandolive.com.

Jar: Executive chef Suzanne Tracht will be serving up her signature dishes as well as some New Year's Eve specials at Jar. The a la carte menu will include truffled celery root soup with braised celery hearts, oxtail consommé with oxtail pumpkin dumplings, and gnocchi with chanterelles and lobster. In addition, guests will be given party favors to celebrate the coming of 2012. 8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-6566, www.thejar.com. 

Locanda Del Lago: On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, chef Gianfranco Minuz is cooking a meal showcasing Italian winter ingredients. Diners can choose between a $55 three-course menu or a $68 four-course menu.  Diners can add optional wine pairings ($25) and a seasonal dessert ($11). The holiday menu includes Scottish salmon marinated with pomegranate and spiced wine reduction, capon chicken tortellini with chicken consommé and Grana Padano, and roasted veal tenderloin with morel mushroom and chestnut sauce. On New Year’s Eve, the restaurant will be offering a five-course prix-fixe menu for $89 per person or $139 per person, which includes endless Pommery Champagne. There will be a live DJ and dancing. Overnight parking is available to diners for $15 (with next-day pickup from 5 to 10 p.m.). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 451-3525, lagosantamonica.com.

Lucques: This New Year's Eve at Lucques, diners will be transported to the canals of Venice with a meal inspired by the famous Harry's Bar. The five-course prix-fixe menu is $110 for the first seating and $150 for the second seating. The menu includes a Venetian antipasto of grisini with prosciutto di Parma, fagioli and winter squash in saor, fried artichokes in bagna cauda and burrata with pesto. Following the antipasto will be warm scallop and squid salad, tagliolini with lobster and herb-roasted rack of lamb with radicchio risotto. To end the feast, torta di zabaglione for dessert. 

 8474 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 655-6277, lucques.com.

Marino's: A classic Italian restaurant, Marino's is serving up the traditional southern Italian feast of seven fishes family-style. The four-course meal is $60 per person, including dishes such as spaghetti with baby clams, cod cakes and poached branzino. For dessert, guests can enjoy ricotta cheescake, panettone souffle or roasted chestnuts. 6001 Melrose Ave, Hollywood, (323) 466-8812, www.marinorestaurant.net. 

Mélisse: Michelin-starred chef Josiah Citrin is preparing a five-course Christmas Eve menu priced at $150 per guest. Options include seared foie gras and glazed pear; smoked salmon "pavé" with potato, green apple, caviar and sauce gribiche; Maine lobster and scallop “pot au feu”; or prime filet of beef with bulb onions. Guests will have a choice of fig and apple tart or a Valhrona chocolate crunch cake for dessert. Mélisse's New Year's Eve dinner has two options: an early seating beginning at 5:30 with a four-course menu ($140) or a late seating at 8:30 p.m. for six courses ($250). Highlights of the menu include the restaurant's signature caviar with poached egg and lemon crème fraîche, lemon-crusted Dover sole and olive-crusted lamb. Reservations are advised. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 385-0881, melisse.com.

Mozza's Scuola di Pizza: Nancy Silverton's Scuola di Pizza at Mozza offers Saturday night family-style dinners, and Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve are no exception. Christmas Eve is the annual feast of seven fishes for $75 at 7 p.m. And on New Year's Eve, a multi-course dinner celebrating truffle season will be served with wines for $250 per person at 8 p.m. Seating is limited. Call the event line at (323) 297-1133. 6602 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, www.mozza-la.com. 

Stocking Stuffer: Sqirl

Los Angeles-based company Sqirl makes some pretty tasty preserves -- jams, jellies and marmalades -- for stuffing inside stockings this year. Jam maker Jessica Koslow playfully displays her products for purchase alongside eccentric props and colorful backdrops on the company's website. Made with local produce from family-owned farms no more than 200 miles from her kitchen, Koslow's jams incorporate flavorful fruits -- some of which are on the Ark of Taste.

Among Sqirl's preserves is a strawberry and rose jam, made with McGrath Family Farms Seascape strawberries, Rancho Del Sol Sorrento lemons and Earthtrine Farms rose geranium. Another favorite is the Santa Rosa plums and flowering thyme jam made with plums from Flora Bella Farm, Sorrento lemon juice from Rancho Del Sol and Shear Rock Farm flowering thyme.

Sqirl's preserves range in price from $12 to $14 and can be purchased online or at Proof Bakery in Atwater Village.

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Something’s fishy at Providence and Drago Centro

One fish, two fish … seven fish. Providence and Drago Centro have created special menus celebrating La Vigilia, the Italian feast of seven fish courses for Christmas Eve. Drago's highlights include a Maine lobster cappuccino and branzino with wild mushrooms and pancetta for $70, while Providence is featuring scallops with black truffles and striped bass livornese among its seven courses for $115. Set for the night of Dec. 24, expect the meal to provide a surplus of omega-3s. It's on you to bring the holiday spirit.

Providence, 5955 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 460-4170; www.providencela.com.

Drago Centro, 525 S. Flower St., Suite #120, Los Angeles; (213)-228-8998; www.dragocentro.com.

FOR MORE HOLIDAY EATING-OUT OPTIONS, CLICK HERE. 

-- Max Diamond

Photo: a prawn dish (not on the La Vigilia menu) at Providence. Credit: Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times

How many fruitcakes are there in the world?

Fruitcake? Bring it on. The lovely pale fruitcakes made with sherry and the best dried fruits. The creepiest ones full of red and green colored things that might once have been fruit. The nutty ones that hardly deserve the name. I love them all.

If I'm not alone, it seems like I'm close.

Fruitcake is fair game for the cruelest of jokes, like the one that plays on the idea that there is just one fruitcake in the world, and it gets passed around endlessly. But perhaps PayPal can be forgiven: It has turned that joke into a way to raise money for a couple dozen charities during the holiday season.

Its "Regift the Fruitcake" campaign asks people to make a virtual fruitcake and pass it on to friends in an effort to get them to donate to one of the charities -- through PayPal, of course. The recipients include Kiva, Operation Smile and Architecture for Humanity, and donors can see what their money buys on the website.

"Our goal is to turn a gift that no one wants into a gift for a good cause,” says Jamie Patricio of PayPal.

Hmmm. I'll try to be magnanimous; it is after all the holiday season.

-- Mary MacVean

Photo by Ken Hively / Los Angeles Times

 

Gifts for Cooks: 'Get Cooking'

Mollie Katzen’s new book is aimed at young people who know precious little about how to cook – which doesn’t mean they’re ignorant about food. Quite the contrary.

“They know what spaghetti carbonara is but they don’t know how to get the scrambled eggs into the pasta,” she said.

“Get Cooking”speaks to people who “have grown up without seeing their mom in the kitchen or their dad making dinner” and who now want to cook, Katzen said in a telephone interview.

There could hardly be a more understanding guide to the kitchen basics than Katzen, who as a young person herself decoded the world of vegetarian cooking with her iconic Moosewood books.

“Get Cooking 150 Simple Recipes to Get You Started in the Kitchen” (the title is longer than some of the ingredient lists) was inspired in part by her 25-year-old son and his friends who are living on their own and trying to eat well and on the cheap.

“’You should write a book for me and my friends,’” he told her.