Michel Richard exits Social Hollywood; Alain Giraud to take reins

 

Michel Richard has left the building. The French chef who last year returned his landmark restaurant Citrus to Los Angeles in a new incarnation -- Citrus at Social Hollywood -- has stepped down. Alain Giraud, chef-partner at Anisette Brasserie in Santa Monica and Richard's protege at the original Citrus on Melrose Avenue in the '90s, is expected to take over the restaurant, which will be operating under a new, still-to-be-determined name.

Richard says: "I want to spend more time on the East Coast," where he has been running his flagship restaurant Citronelle in Washington, D.C., while visiting Social Hollywood on a semi-regular basis. "I have loved being back in Los Angeles with Citrus, but now I am very confident with Alain and feel that I can let go and refocus myself here in Washington."

Richard was recruited by restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow to relaunch the restaurant, located at the former Hollywood Athletic Club, and Citrus at Social Hollywood opened in January 2008. But the restaurant never seemed to gain its footing, despite receiving three stars from Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila. That rave notwithstanding, Richard's whimsical hits -- carpaccio of "surf, turf and earth" and "scallop scramble not 'eggsactly' " -- didn't draw the expected crowds.

Citrus at Social Hollywood chef de cuisine Remi Lauvand departed in August 2008. His replacement, Omri Aflalo, left earlier this year. The restaurant currently is open only three days a week, Thursday to Saturday.

Chef changes: Who's cooking at the new Hotel Shangri-La, BLT Steak, the Cabbage Patch

Noah Rosen, formerly of Wilshire and BLT Steak, is behind the stoves in the restaurant at the newly renovated Hotel Shangri-La, set to open May 1. Meanwhile, Brian Moyers is the new chef de cuisine at BLT Steak. Moyers was most recently at the BLVD at the Regent Beverly Wilshire. And Roxana Jullapat, who was the pastry chef at Lucques and AOC, is now pastry chef at Samir Mohajer's Cabbage Patch. 

-- Betty Hallock 

Small Bites: Casa gets a new chef, chocolate (and cheese) is everywhere [UPDATE]

Casa gets a new chef: It seems like just last week that we interviewed Kris Morningstar about the opening of Casa; and like only yesterday that he quickly left the modern Mexican restaurant for greener kitchens. Now, Casa is announcing the appointment of a shiny new chef -- Nick Albrecht. Albrecht hails from Seattle's Brasa Restaurant and will reportedly place a strong premium (along with seemingly every other chef in the city) on seasonal farmers market produce. This week, under Albrecht's guidance, Casa is introducing new dinner and cocktail menus for spring. Also, according to Eater L.A., the restaurant's outdoor bar and patio are now fully functional; to celebrate, Casa will host an "all day and night fiesta," on Thursday from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. 350 S. Grand Ave., L.A. (213) 621-2249.

'Tis the chocolate season: Two chocolate-errific options loom on the culinary horizon. Up first, Luna Park's new Sunday Chocolate Brunch menu. Served from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., everything on the decadent menu is delivered to your table alongside a basket of chocolate banana bread. The options (which would overwhelm even Veruca Salt) include chocolate chip pancakes with chocolate maple syrup, chocolate banana French toast, chocolate strawberry crepes with chocolate sauce and dark chocolate mojitos. (OMG, I just got totally dizzy writing that, and weirdly sick and hungry and hot-flashy all at once.) 627 S. La Brea, L.A. (323) 934-2110.

Next up, the Langham Huntington Hotel & Spa is serving a Chocolate Afternoon Tea on Sundays from noon to 4 p.m. The relaxed and decidedly classy experience includes a selection of savory sandwiches, scones, tarts, torts and crème brûlées, all sassed up with various chocolate essences. The center of the scene is dominated by a lavish chocolate fountain flanked by sculpted chocolate art. 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena. (626) 568-3900.  [Update: A previous version of this post said that the Chocolate Afternoon tea begins at 1 p.m. It actually begins at noon.]

Monday is for cheese: Join cheese magnate Andrew Steiner of Andrew's Cheese Shop; everybody's favorite, sprightly pastry chef Zoe Nathan; and chef Evan Funke at Rustic Canyon for a very special evening of cheese worship. The Local Artisan Cheese Dinner features crispy, cheese-stuffed morels, roasted baby beets with sheep's milk ricotta, goat cheese ravioli, braised Niman Ranch short-rib gratin with blue cheese and brown sugar crème fraîche trifle. Monday. $55. 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 393-7050.

-- Jessica Gelt

Photo: David Sprague / For The Times

Chef change at the French Laundry

Thomas Keller's French Laundry announced this week that Timothy Hollingsworth will succeed Corey Lee as chef de cuisine when Lee departs this summer to open his own restaurant in San Francisco.

In January, Hollingsworth, 29, represented the U.S. at the Bocuse d'Or in Lyon, France, where he placed sixth. Hollingsworth started at the French Laundry as a 21-year-old commis, scaling the kitchen ranks to sous chef. 

Of his promotion, Hollingsworth says: "It’s something that I had been talking about with Thomas and Corey. Thomas is very supportive of a natural evolution and presenting opportunities for his employees. I'm really excited — and excited for Corey. I know he's going to do something great."

Lee is expected to leave the French Laundry in August.

— Betty Hallock

Photo: Timothy Hollingsworth, far right, with Paul Bocuse, far left, Daniel Boulud and Jerome Bocuse, preparing for the Bocuse d'Or.

Credit: Dave Getzschman / For The Times

Small Bites: John O'Groats to expand, Matteo's reinvents itself (again), Monday night oyster roasts at the Hungry Cat

      

The new new Matteo's? Old-school Italian restaurant Matteo's had been all but forgotten up until a few years ago, when new owners installed Don Dickman (of erstwhile Rocca) as executive chef, who expunged dishes such as chicken Beckerman from the menu. But Dickman didn't stick around long (he's expected to man the stoves at Claudio Blotta's forthcoming Barbrix, according to Food GPS), and the new Matteo's never seemed to take off. But now a new chef, Antonio Orlando from Fresco in Glendale, is serving his own twists on classic dishes from his hometown of Salerno, Italy. And Murder Mystery Dinner Theater has been added every Saturday night. There's also happy hour -- 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. and 9 to 11 p.m. Tuesday to Friday -- with half-off well drinks. Hopefully, the Red Skelton clown painting is still hanging. 2321 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 475-4521.

T.G.I.M.: Next week (April 6), the Hungry Cat kicks off its Monday Night Oyster Roasts, with Low Country roasted oysters (by the dozen or half-dozen), sausages, pork belly and Hungry Cat potato salad. There will be the requisite beer and cocktail specials. 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, (323) 462-2155.  www.thehungrycat.com

JOG for the Valley: Paul Tyler, owner of John O'Groats -- the West L.A. restaurant that draws weekend brunchers in droves, says he will open a second restaurant in Encino in September. (JOG recently was featured in Esquire magazine's "Best Breakfasts in America" issue.) JOG's Valley sibling will be located in the newly constructed Sorrento Building, with a breakfast-lunch-dinner menu similar to the 27-year-old Pico Boulevard flagship (omelets, pancakes, fish & chips, fried chicken, meat loaf...). There will also be a full bar. 16120 Ventura Blvd., Encino (coming fall).

-- Betty Hallock

Photo: Matteo's. Credit: Ken Hively / Los Angeles Times

This Just In: Jared Levy named exec chef at BottleRock

When BottleRock downtown opens in March, it will be with a new executive chef, Jared Levy, who will continue the wine bar's menu of "restrained fine dining." Levy, who has worked with chef Michael Cimarusti (Providence) and Kris Morningstar (lately of Casa) will head the kitchen at the downtown spot while overseeing the existing Culver City location. Viet Pham, who trained at Blue Velvet and Bouchon, will join BottleRock as sous chef.

Random Chef Fact: Levy taught English in Japan, where he honed his culinary chops working at a small izakaya called Bei in Ise. The focus was "traditional Japanese ingredients prepared using French techniques."

-- Elina Shatkin

Photo: Carlos Chavez / Los Angeles Times

Kris Morningstar says adios to Casa

In early January, chef Kris Morningstar was all sunshine and roses about newly opened Casa, but barely a month later, he has left the upscale Mexican restaurant "to start a new project" (per the official press release). Both he and and owner Mario Del Pero insist it was a friendly split, but given how integral Morningstar was to Casa's menu and how prominently his name was splashed across every press release about the restaurant, one has to wonder. Per Metromix:

When asked to about his reasons for leaving, Morningstar said: "It's really the friendliest split. I have other things I'm working on."

What, pray tell, are these other projects? Morningstar is jumping on board with George Abou-Daoud (owner of the Bowery, Delancey, Mission Cantina and Tamarind Deli) for a new project at Sunset and Seward. He may be overseeing a few of Abou-Daoud's other locations as well, although it is certain he will not be running Mission Cantina due to legal bindings with Casa.

Casa, which opened in late December, is the last of a trinity of upscale Latin-themed restaurants that have recently sprung up downtown. The other two are Provecho, which opened in late November, and Rivera,  which opened in early December. 

-- Elina Shatkin

Photo: Courtesy of Casa

Small Bites: Latkes at the Foundry on Melrose; Sona's gingerbread house; All'Angelo, post-Mirko, and Mirko, post-Morton's

 

Persimmon-stuffed doughnuts and latkes in lots of flavors: Eric Greenspan of the Foundry on Melrose is offering a Hanukkah tasting menu on the first night of Hanukkah only — that's this Sunday, in case you didn't know. On the menu: chicken consommé with kreplach, carrots and truffle; beet latke with smoked salmon and caraway creme fraiche; beef brisket with Brussels sprouts and mustard; and persimmon-stuffed spiced doughnuts. It's $49 per person. There will also be three different specialty latkes — beet and carrot latkes with caraway creme fraiche, potato latkes with pear and black pepper marmalade and hazelnut creme fraiche, and celery root and red onion latkes with green tomato marmalade and horseradish creme fraiche — and sugared doughnuts, available for $9 each, through Dec. 27. 7465 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 651-0915, thefoundryonmelrose.com

Don't throw stones at gingerbread houses: So maybe you haven't gotten around to building your gingerbread house yet. We all have the best intentions. But unlike many of the rest of us, Sona pastry chef Ramon Perez didn't slack. He made a gingerbread house that's an exact replica of Sona, on display at the restaurant, complete with chocolate tiles and a snowman. The Langham, Huntington Hotel & Spa, Pasadena also has its annual gingerbread house on display in the lobby lounge through Christmas. Sona, 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 659-7708, sonarestaurant.com. The Langham, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave. Pasadena, (626) 568-3900, pasadena.langhamhotels.com

Mirko moves on; so does All'Angelo: There are no more white tablecloths or fine crystal at All'Angelo, and owner Stefano Ongaro has reformatted the menu — he's going trattoria (less formal than a ristorante), with casual service, wines by the glass and carafe, and lower prices. The new menu features rustic dishes from executive chef Ezio Puccioni, all priced at $20 or less. Meanwhile, former All'Angelo chef Mirko Paderno has landed as executive chef at the coming Cecconi's, scheduled to open in late February in West Hollywood where Morton's used to be. Cecconi's is focusing on relaxed Italian too. All'Angelo, 7166 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 933-9540.

Photo: Eric Greenspan's persimmon-stuffed doughnuts (foreground) and beet latkes. Credit: Los Angeles Times

Update: Bond Street names Brian Redzikowski as new executive chef

Brian Redzikowski has been named executive chef at the year-old Beverly Hills sushi restaurant Bond Street. The 27-year-old Long Island native has spent his career shifting gears between Japanese and French cuisine, with stints as executive chef at Matsuhisa in Aspen, Colo.; as sous-chef at Joel Robuchon at the Mansion in Las Vegas; and as executive sous-chef to chef Akira Back (who once worked at the Aspen Matsuhisa as well) at Yellowtail at the Bellagio. He promises an emphasis on new sashimi dishes.

IN ADDITION: Hiroshi Nakahara, who came from the New York City Bond Street to open the Beverly Hills outpost will stay on as the the sushi chef for Bond Street Beverly Hills.

-- Elina Shatkin

Photo : Lori Sheppler / Los Angeles Times