Daily Dish

The inside scoop on food in Los Angeles

Category: British

Make ahead dessert: April Bloomfield's rhubarb fool

RhubarbA couple of Sundays ago, I was invited to a glorious run-through of the contemporary music pianist Gloria Cheng would be playing at a concert on the East Coast the next week. It began at 6 p.m. at the new Steinway Piano Gallery in Pasadena and I’d invited friends to dinner after the concert. Since I had no idea when we’d be finished, I had to make everything ahead — fried chicken, coleslaw, succotash — and for dessert, rhubarb fool.

I’d bought some rhubarb at the farmers market intending to make a strawberry-rhubarb pie. But in the end, felt like trying something new, namely this recipe from April Bloomfield (Spotted Pig, the Breslin Bar & Dining Room and the John Dory Oyster Bar in New York). The Brits really know how to do these kinds of desserts, and this recipe from her new cookbook is a keeper — easy, meant to be prepared ahead and delicious.

You can make the rhubarb the day before and then layer it in the glasses with the cardamom cream and pistachios hours before you’ll be eating to give it all a good chill. The cardamom is brilliant with the rhubarb (which is also dosed with a little rose water), giving the sweet a Middle Eastern harem vibe.

One note: I divided the recipe into six servings and still had half the cream left over. No matter, I served it the next day with ripe fresh figs.

You might want to halve the amount of rose water, too, depending on your taste. 

Rhubarb Fool with Cardamom Cream and Pistachios (adapted from “A Girl and Her Pig: Recipes and Stories” by April Bloomfield, Ecco Press, 2012, 333 pgs, $29.99). Follow the jump for the recipe.

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Cooking with: Ross-on-Wye Perry

PerryWorking my way through British food writer Nigel Slater's "Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard," I came across a recipe for pork shoulder roasted in perry.

Perry? Made from fermented pears, perry's common in Britain, especially in Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Worcestershire. Commercial perry recently also has been called "pear cider," but some still make a distinction between the two. Traditionally, they're produced slightly differently. Specific varieties of pears are grown for perry (with names such as Mumblehead and Red Huffcap). 

My corner wine shop happened to carry Ross-on-Wye Perry. From the little town of Ross-on-Wye, it's a traditional rustic perry made by cidermaker Mike Johnson, fermented in barrels with naturally-occurring, wild yeasts. Ross-on-Wye is known for experimenting with a variety of barrels, such as rum, whiskey and brandy, for fermenting its pear juice. 

The Ross-on-Wye Medium Dry Still Perry isn't carbonated and no sugar is added, so it isn't bubbly and isn't much sweet. It recalls mead or a dry white port. It's suited for cooking. "Perry is an astonishing drink -- refreshing, dry and fruity," Slater writes. "A small bottle upended into a pot roast will ensure a moist result and leave you with a decent amount of fruity pot juices to spoon over." And it did.  

Ross-on-Wye Perry, about $9 for 500ml, available at Buzz, 460 S. Spring St., Los Angeles, (213) 622-2222, www.buzzwinebeershop.com. 

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-- Betty Hallock

Photo: Betty Hallock / Los Angeles Times

Royal Clayton's Pub to reopen in downtown LA

Beer

Royal Clayton’s, a favorite downtown watering hole that served chilled pints and traditional fish and chips, just reached a deal to reopen at the Spring Arcade Building at 6th and Spring streets.

The pub closed its doors in 2010 after being open for four years in the Arts District.  The new Royal Clayton’s will be replacing an electronics store on the Spring Street side of the space.  According to co-owner Tony Gower in the Los Angeles Downtown News, the company is hoping to reopen the pub by the end of the year although the official timeline is still undecided. 

The owners would like the new Royal Clayton's to be as close as possible to the original.  However, if the city permits, they would like to add outdoor seating.

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--Leah Rodrigues

twitter.com/ LeahRodrigues24

Photo Credit: Beatrice de Gea/ Los Angeles Times

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