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Cooks County is open on Beverly Boulevard

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Cooks County is officially open today in the former Bistro LQ space on Beverly Boulevard. Owner Claudio Blotta of Barbrix in Silver Lake has tapped chefs Daniel Mattern and Roxana Jullapat, most recently of Ammo in Hollywood, who are turning out ‘a very California menu,’ says Mattern. ‘We’ve set our goal to be as self-sufficient as possible,’ which means making their own cured meats, preserves, condiments and in-house bread. ‘This is the most yeast I’ve ever used,’ says Jullapat, who is the pastry chef -- though Mattern also refers to her as co-chef. ‘We riff off each other a lot.’

The menu, which changes daily, features snacks such as cast-iron bread and farmhouse butter, chicken liver crostini and fried Washington oysters; appetizers such as pork rillettes with cranberry mostarda; mains such as wood-grilled duck breast with kabocha and Santa Barbara pistachios. On the dessert menu are sweet focaccia with roasted grapes and muscat zabaglione and chocolate ale cake with hot fudge and broken toffee.

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8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 653-8009, www.cookscountyrestaurant.com.

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