Cookbook Watch: 'Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden'
Midwesterner Bradley Ogden (Lark Creek in Larkspur, One Market in San Francisco, Route 246 in Solvang, and many more) is a great American cook. I can still remember fondly his astonishing breakfasts at Campton Place in San Francisco years ago and years before anybody else was giving breakfast its due respect. I still make his chicken pot pie recipe from a previous cookbook with the turkey leftovers every year.
If you’re in the midst of planning your holiday menus, his new book, "Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden," is worth a look, especially if your family goes for the traditional. Here’s his sage-butter-roasted turkey—and for the next day: leftover turkey hash. (Oh no, now I may have to cook two turkeys in order to have enough leftovers for turkey pot pie and turkey hash.)
First courses that appeal to me include endive salad with tangerines and kumquats or a green bean and persimmon salad. For sides, he’s got buttered Brussels sprouts and chestnuts, celery root and pear puree, and a chestnut and oyster gratin. His corn and sage stuffing is a classic, too. The secret to his turkey gravy is a spoonful of sherry vinegar, which he promises gives the gravy a rich balanced flavor.
For sweets, he does a three-layer pumpkin pie in a sour cream pie crust and a persimmon walnut upside-down-cake.
When it comes to Christmas, he lays out four different menus including a traditional party menu and an intimate Christmas dinner for two. New Year’s brings blood orange mimosas, black-eyed peas with smoked bacon and spinach and an additional two dozen or so dishes, all slotted into appropriate menus.
A holiday resource you’re sure to consult year after year.
"Holiday Dinners With Bradley Ogden: 150 Festive Recipes to Bring Family & Friends Together" by Bradley Ogden with Lydia Scott (Running Press, 279 pages, $30).
-- S. Irene Virbila
Photo: Book cover from Running Press.