Test Kitchen tips: What makes a ‘cooking’ apple?

The world of apples is supposedly divided cleanly in two: cookers and eaters. But does that mean you can’t eat a cooker? Or cook an eater? And what makes a ‘cooking’ apple anyway? Generally, the apples that cook or bake best are those that are notably tart (because you’re going to add sugar anyway) and that hold together through cooking. In my experience, the best apples for cooking are Granny Smith, Golden Delicious and Jonathan. But I’ve also had good luck with Gala, Braeburn, Pink Lady and Fuji. As for the older varieties, there are so many, you’re best off asking the farmer.