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Wine of the Week: 2009 Cantine Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino 'Lunae'

Vermentinot As summer edges closer, crisp white wines are what's needed.

Break out the wine buckets and the galvanized pails, stick in a few bottles and it's party time. Paolo Bosoni at Cantine Lunae, an estate in Liguria that goes back five centuries, makes a stunning Vermentino called "Lunae." Note: We're talking the etichetta nera, or black label reserve, wine. The regular label, also very good, is half the price.

I wouldn't serve this to just anybody: It needs an audience that will appreciate its lovely subtleties. Straw yellow with greenish glints, it is 100% Vermentino, made from grapes sourced from two hillside vineyards. Though the scent is wildflowers and honey, the wine is dry and fresh, with a hint of apple and almond.

It's a perfect match for seafood, particularly grilled fish, lobster or spot prawns, squid and seafood pasta dishes.

Region: Liguria Price: About $25 Style: Dry and aromatic

What it goes with: Grilled fish or prawns, squid, seafood pasta dishes

Where to find it: Cube Marketplace in Los Angeles, (323) 939-1148; http://www.cubemarketplace.com and Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454, http://www.winex.com.

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