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Jambon beurre sandwich

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In France, on a road trip, lunch is usually jambon beurre (literally, ‘ham butter’), a crusty baguette spread with good sweet butter with some thinly sliced pink ham laid between the two halves. If you find a great example -- made with excellent bread, quality ham and good butter -- there’s no better travel companion.

Americans sometimes have a hard time wrapping their heads around the idea. What, no tomato? No lettuce? No mustard? Non. Its beauty is in its simplicity. Admittedly, it’s a long way away from the sub or hero sandwich, but I love it.

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Lately, I’ve been making a pit stop at Cookbook in Echo Park for baguettes (some of the best in town). One Sunday I got there early (it opens at 8 a.m.), and the woman behind the counter was making up what looked very like a jambon beurre. ‘Yes, it is,’ she said. But made on the most slender ficelle (super-skinny baguette).

On Monday, I picked up a sandwich for lunch. The ficelle is wonderful, slathered with sweet butter and enclosing a single slice of prosciutto. Perfect if you’re headed for a hike in Elysian Park.

It didn’t get that far. I ate it in my car.

Cookbook, 1549 Echo Park Ave, Los Angeles; (213) 250-1900; www.cookbookla.com. Jambon beurre sandwich, $5.

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