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Thai meets Laotian at Tom Yum Koong

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Here’s an early look at what’s cooking in this week’s Food section:

Traffic flows past Tom Yum Koong in a stream of steel and rubber, pouring off the nearby freeway into the concrete delta of Westminster strip malls and suburban churches. The restaurant is looked at and looked over. To some, it may look like just another neighborhood Thai restaurant: salads sluiced with lime juice and chiles, broad rice noodles snaking through puddles of soy sauce. But the kitchen maintains a distinct duality, capable in Thai and Laotian cooking. That’s just one of the reasons why it’s our ‘find’ of the week. Read more: ‘The Find: Tom Yum Koong.’

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