The Review: One juicy, medium-rare star for Umami Burger

America is full of contradictions. At a time when Michael Pollan's "Omnivore's Dilemma" is a bestseller, novelist Jonathan Safran Foer has just written an exhortation against the eating of meat ("Eating Animals"), and vegans are clamoring for chefs to accommodate them at top restaurants, the country is also becoming even more burger-obsessed than it already was.

In-N-Out Burger, Southern California's own classic drive-in burger chain, appears on many foodies' Top 10 lists. Mozza's Nancy Silverton and chef Amy Pressman are bringing their burgers to the Farmers Market. And just about every top-tier restaurant has a burger -- with or without short ribs, with or without foie gras -- on the menu.

Earlier this year, Adam Fleischman, a former partner in Culver City's Bottle Rock, opened Umami Burger on La Brea Boulevard. It's a tiny place with only a handful of tables, a modest menu of burgers and a few sides -- and no wine-and-beer license, the better to bring your own. With most burgers, including the signature Umami Burger, under $10, hand-cut fries and homemade ketchup, it's no surprise the place caught fire with L.A.'s dedicated burger hounds.

To read the rest of S. Irene Virbila's review, click here.

Photo: Umami's Manly Burger. Credit: Ringo H.W. Chiu / For The Times

Comments

[rickytick simms]

3 visits to the La Brea locale-first one amazingly good, the following 2 were rushed, stress -laden waits, with the owner trying to slide in another party ahead of us, and the burgers soggy, droll and really just ho-hum. I'll go elsewhere now
for a $15 meal of this "comfort" level.

They just put a third location on Ivar/Cahuenga next to Hennessey & Ingalls. I don't think the $9-12 burger price, with no sides, will work in this neighborhood of cost-conscious working people...not a destination location.

[Lee]

My family & friends stopped by the loz feliz location 2 and 1/2 weeks ago - the wednesday evening before thanksgiving actually, right after a movie - we were a mixed group, 14 yr. old to 57 yr. old, an angeleno, an east coast transplant, a german, a mid westerner & a visiting new yorker - we were blown away by how amazingly good our burgers were - we liked the various sides ( esp. sweet potato fries, but also skinny & fat fries,and onion rings....all seemed like delicate tempura fried food) - we have been there FOUR times in 2 and 1/2 weeks - we (guilty as charged) are major burger/steak fanatics (though none of us would normally ever be eating this many burgers in that time frame) - we think they've slip something like crack in 'em..they are addictive!

[LA Eater]

Umami has a burger very similar to the "Office Burger" at Santa Monica's "Father's Office". Being a big fan of the Office Burger, I had to try this. They will tell you at Umami that their burger is better than FO, but it is not. It is almost as good, but smaller, more expensive, and the fries are basically potato wedges. A bad fry:potato ratio (twice as big as a steak fry). While the truffle burger was great, I wouldn't rush back there. Especially because I'd be dealing with the crazy parking situation even to get into the valet, which is basically required due to the limitation of parking on the street. The portions are small and the place is pretty pretentious, just like more and more LA restaurants are becoming these days.

[raj brandston]

it was very good but it is not nearly as good as the happy hour burger at beacon
the french fries where very pretty but i like the taste of well done and better colored french fries better

[Ace Deuce]

As an Angeleno of 13 years and a burger aficionado, I agree wholeheartedly (and in a positive way) regarding the concept and food. HOWEVER, the service is terrible (I'm not the only one who thinks this, reading reviews on Citysearch and Yelp) and Adam Fleischman is quite possibly the rudest owner of a restaurant I have ever encountered. My basis for saying this is that I frequented the La Brea Umami a number times beginning several after it opened and in fact recommended it to many people. On my last visit, after enduring a nearly one hour wait for a waiter either get either my check, more water or a dessert menu, I got Mr. Fleischman's attention about the lackluster service of the waiter, he proceed to very sarcastically tell me "What do you want me to do, reprimand him?" Suffice it so say, I haven't been back. I am an extraordinarily forgiving customer when it comes to bad service but once thing I cannot abide is an owner being rude to me when confronted with overtly bad service by their staff. And I'm not speaking of snotty owners, I'm talking caustically rude to a regular customer. I just thought LA should be aware.

[EvaDestruction]

Delicious burgers and sides... but... ridiculously small portions. I left hungry.

[JC]

Check out this informative and inspiring video on why people choose vegan: http://veganvideo.org/

Also see Gary Yourofsky: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bagt5L9wXGo