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The Review: Marche in Sherman Oaks scores 2.5 bright stars

November 11, 2009 |  5:57 pm

It's back to the Boulevard for Gary Menes, who first made a splash when he was cooking Moroccan-accented dishes at the then-newly opened Firefly on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City. Last year, he landed as chef de cuisine at Octavio Becerra's Palate Food + Wine in Glendale, where he did some of the best cooking in his career. And now he's joined up with André Guerrero as chef and partner at Marché L.A. on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks.

The space, in fact, was formerly Guerrero's Max Restaurant. (Guerrero is plenty busy these days with his slow "fast food" concept the Oinkster in Eagle Rock and with BoHo in Hollywood.)

Since Max already had a bistro decor, no big redo was required. To my eye, the place looks exactly the same. What's changed is the format and the food, which is now very much in the style of Palate. If you're going to be influenced by something, you might as well pick something good. Besides, who's to say exactly how much input Menes had into the menu there? However it came about, the result at Marché is delicious eating.

To read the rest of S. Irene Virbila's review, click here.

Photo: Romey salad with Romey Coleman arugula with speck and chocolate persimmons. Credit: Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times