Ruth Reichl stunned by Gourmet's end

In his story on Conde Nast's decision to shut down the nation's oldest major food magazine, Russ Parsons quotes the magazine's editor (and former L.A. Times Food editor and restaurant critic) Ruth Reichl as saying she found out the news only this morning.

"I can't talk about it now, it's too raw. I've got to pack up my office," she said.

There had been some recent speculation about the magazine's difficulties, particularly given the fact that Conde Nast also owns Gourmet's chief competitor, Los Angeles-based Bon Appetit. Not only did Bon Appetit have more readers, according to recent statistics from the magazines' media kits, Gourmet had circulation of 950,000 copies while Bon Appetit had 1.3 million readers. Additionally, Gourmet had a reputation of being a very expensive magazine to run, featuring long articles by well-known writers while Bon Appetit was focused on much more economical, recipe-driven content.

But in retrospect, there were clear signs that all was not well when Reichl did a recent radio interview with Larry Mantle on KPCC-FM (89.3). "We're struggling just like everyone else," she said. "It's ironic because our circulation has never been higher. And yet advertising dollars are a challenge."

Still, she put on a hopeful front: "I have to say that in the last week it felt like the recession ended. I mean, suddenly, our advertising picture literally in the last week changed really dramatically and ads started flooding in. It's really very exciting."

But for most of its readers, the idea of a food world without Gourmet to describe it is almost unthinkable.

Comments

[Stefani F]

I am sorry, but comparing Gourment to Bon A. is just not viable. Ruth Reichl is a national treasure and I adore the articles and all her books. I too will follow Ruth wherever she "travels" and am sorry that an updated format or bi-monthly issue was not introduced. After losing my job of 15yrs, I am constanly saddened by the humanity (ha) of American-based companies with inventive, intelligent, hard-working employees that get shoved out the door without due kindness and consideration. Shame, shame Conde Nast!

[TG Benios]

Few people can understand how special Ruth Reichl is. It must be difficult, if not impossible, for a consulting company and a corporation to understand.

[rick]

Having rediscovered Gourmet, I was proud to have a subscription to a US publication that could stand up to the likes of the British and Australian food mags. No we will be lacking once again. And yes, Bon Appetit nowhere near measures up. Sad, sad.

[Michelle]

I was simply stunned to hear the news this morning, London time. Is there nothing to be done? Will Conde Nast not consider publishing Gourmet six times per year or quarterly?

More immediately, is there a petition that can be signed to entreat Conde Nast to reconsider and come up with a solution that allows Gourmet to continue?

[april]

Ruth - Write another book please. I've bought them all and I'll buy another...long live Ruth Reichl

-april
nyc

[Luisa]

I have fond memories of poring over recipes at my mother-in-law's house. And even now watching my daughter stockpile them over the last few years in her room, in our living room, oh heck, in every corner of the house. We found the best chocolate walnut pie recipe in Gourmet back in the early 80's. I think that was my first attempt at a fancy dessert recipe. It was delicious!

[Marcia Pilgeram]

Not Gourmet.

Stunned. And in protest, I am cancelling every Conde Nast publication to which I currently subscribe. Even Vanity Fair - ouch.

And I will continue to ban anything remotely related to Rachel Ray from my kitchen.

I will wait for the next incarnation of Ruth, knowing it won't be long.

[Cynthia Silva]

Gourmet has been in my house and an important member of our household, all of my 57 years. My father loved the magazine, as have I. I'm sad and sickened by this news. What will I cook for dinner?
Ruth where are you going? I will follow.

[Rich H]

How can Conde Nast continue at all as a premium publisher if the consultant destroys the company to save a penny.

Ms. Reichl is a national treasure without whom the world would be a less friendly and interesting place. We all love the romance, personality, and excitement she brings to food writing. The love of food and her outright love for it and sharing it has made her a friend and mentor to people around the world.

I hope a publisher who knows how to run a publication for the readers and advertisers, in that order,who will start a magazine specifically for Ruth Reichl and the clever quirky compatriots who now find themselves at loose ends.

[JC Tomas]

@Athos "Evolve or die" - I thought gourmet.com made one of the best uses of the online medium - beautiful IA, provoking content and editorially a great compliment to the print issue I subscribed to.

I'd have subscribed to that site too, if I could. Vale Gourmet.

[Michael Hevel]

This sentence doesn't make sense: "Not only did Bon Appetit have more readers, according to recent statistics from the magazines' media kits, Gourmet had circulation of 950,000 copies while Bon Appetit had 1.3 million readers."

[Jesse]

Whats happening in America? while other nations sophistication with food is rising. Here we are going back to Rachel Ray type cheap and mass produced food. Its sad.

[Valerie Smith]

"What a loss, what a loss, what a loss!" This was a remark made years ago by the then-head of the Baha'i community in response to the sudden passing of a notable Baha'i, but I feel it applies equally to the all too sudden demise of this notable magazine. Gourmet has been part of our family's household for as long as I can remember, along with National Geographic and Reader's Digest. So many of our family's recipes came from those pages; even I got brave enough to try one! It seems hard to believe that I will no longer see any more stunning front covers, or read Sugar and Spice, You Asked for It, London Journal, and New York Journal - just to name a few familiar titles.

My condolences and thanks to Ruth Reichl and all of her talented staff, and indeed to all those who served at this illustrious magazine for so many decades.

Sincerely,

Valerie Smith
Old Saybrook, CT

[Carolyn]

I have every copy of Gourmet since 1978; I can't believe the run is over. I thought it was the best food/lifestyle magazine ever. I miss the lengthy erudite travel articles from year's past but I remained committed to this wonderful publication because of their commitment to sustainable agriculture and the importance of eating seasonally and locally. You will all be missed! It's truly the end of an era.

[jodie]

It is startling to imagine no more Gourmet - I learned to cook and appreciate food in the 70's by reading it - and some of my most frequently used receipes are from the magazine: Parker house rolls, clams in broth with linguine, oh so many! But the truth is that in the last 10 (or 15 years?) the tone of the magazine was more like - something new for the sake of newness, rather than quality. Expensive ingredients and over the top presentations, not just great food well done. But, I am sorry to see it go.

[Jill B]

Through Gourmet I learned how to roast a chicken, to throw a casual dinner party where the guests left in awe, and the best places to go when I traveled abroad for a unique time. To say I will it will be an understatement. Gourmet was not a magazine, it was an experience.

[Y ZHANG]

I am so sad Gourmet is closing. Among other things, I love the video podcast it produced in the past. I really think Conde Nast is being stupid, hiring consultants to close down one magazine after another. I thought Portfolio's closing was unfortunate, but now Gourmet? Will New Yorker and Vanity Fair also have to go???? Why not UP the subscription price if there are no ads? I am so sad....

[Brian]

I'm a consummate foodie and while I do mourn the loss of Gourmet magazine, I'm not all together surprised at its demise. Having been a long time subscriber to various food oriented magazines I will admit that I’ve moved away from Gourmet over the years. Gourmet offered lush exposes on food, travel and the new and now of the restaurant industry but it lacked the recipes and practical expertise I found in Bon Appetit magazine. I loved reading about a wonderful café in a place I will likely never travel, but I would have liked a recipe so I can taste a little more of what I’m missing. Bringing cooking back into the home while still providing a touch of the exotic is something Bon Appetit does much better.

[Katie]

This is an incredible loss to all serious cooks. I am in shock as so many others. Gourmet never failed to deliver, from BBQ to sit-down dinners for eight, from travel to finding the best of the best restaurants. Like others I have saved many issues.

About 20 years ago I found three years of Gourmet at a church rummage sale all from the 50s. You would have thought I found a million dollars. Do I still have them? Of course, as you might have guessed.

Thank you Gourmet for over 30 years of personal reading enjoyment, cooking lesions, forever treasured recipes and menus, and of course, the superior writers, photographers and editors who produced the most respected cooking magazine of all time.

[Kim]

Incredibly sad news. Gourmet has been my fav or years. No one writes about food the way Ruth does. I am so very sad.

[Alexandro Zevahc]

I am saddened by this. The passing of Gourmet feels like loosing a member of my staff and family. I don't know how else to put it into words.......

[Athos]

Evolve or die.

[Patrick Dieli]

This did not come as a surprise. The magazine contained too many fluff pieces, steering its readership from the core message of guiding the novice cook through the difficult kitchen creations, and spending time "talking" to its readers instead of at them. Though many issues were lovely to page through, trying to find the practical between the glossy pages became more difficult with each issue. Still, I am sorry to see it fold.

[Leslie smith]

I too am sad. I had just started a subscription to Gourmet and I will miss the pictures, articles and especially sitting with a magazine that inspired me to make things that I wouldn't have considered.

[Mark Boxshus]

This nonsense has got to stop. This is the GOLD standard for everything food, and to think it is being eliminated is almost sacrilege.

[angela]

what a loss this is. I subscribe to just about all the food mags out there and Gourmet is consistently one of the best. I agree with the previous poster who said "Gourmet had both
intellect AND a conscience, and their travel articles were astounding". The mag will be sorely missed by thousands of fans. and what a way to end the magazine; 69 years established and the staff find out about the demise via memo on the day they are closing. There must have been a better way to treat your staff, Conde Naste. Shame shame.

[Peter J. Evans III]

Gourmet magazine always produced a treasure trove of family fun centered around a winning meal. Unfortunately, nearly all articles were targeting well-educated but materialistic affluent lacking in good reasoning. The last few years of my subscription are piled in the corner, mostly unread, filled with articles that "those that already have most everything they need" would enjoy. Advertisers finally figured this out and stop buying into "subscription rates" and "readership rates", two of the most useless ways of measuring the buying habits needed by possible advertisers. The magazines own sloppyiness in recognizing this is their downfall.

[Mimi Hiller]

I was shocked to read about Gourmet this morning. There are some things that appear to be among life's anchors, and in the food (and foodie) world, Gourmet Magazine earned its place. Several years ago, I had started to feel less and less inclined to read it, and even let my subscription lapse, but when Ruth Reichl took over as editor-in-chief, I was sure she was the answer, to provide a facelift and add new spark to the publication. Though we never met in person, I worked with her briefly as a free-lance food writer just before she left the Los Angeles Times, and found her enthusiasm invigorating.

Life has its changes, and I'm sure that there will be something great in Ruth's future. I wish her well.

[John D Farr]

The reality is that this field has gotten very crowded and the Food Net Work, their web sites, and their magazines have had a giant impact on the cooking business in America. They have real impact people that have become part of our lives and jargon and made food fun. Emeril, Bobby Flay, Rachael Ray, and several others are the food icons of today.
In addition they have attracted thousands of new viewer/readers and many men watch the shows. They are a fresh way of looking at food for family, fun, enjoyment and profit.

[S. Shepard]

I am thankful for the many recipes that I discovered in the pages of Gourmet magazine, so many have become family favorites. I will miss Gourmet magazine, as an avid reader and cook, the long articles were a joy to read!

[Chris]

As someone who started subscribing to Gourmet in the 1970's it is hard to accept the end of the magazine. I stopped subscribing to it in the 1990's because the format became more eye candy and less informative on travel and food. Perhaps it brought in younger readers but it also lost many of its long time subscribers. One can only hope that it will be revived in better economic times

[Nina Sventitsky]

Regarding circulation statistics above, Gourmet has never had a readership that exceeded that of Bon Appetit. Pure circulation does not dictate profitability in the magazine business, or we would be stuck with only 50 magazines from which to choose, including TV Guide and Time. Gourmet magazine was always Conde's "lifestyle and travel" title - it filled that niche long before the company launched Conde Nast Traveler, "re-launched" Vanity Fair and before it purchased Bon Appetit/Architectural Digest from Knapp Communications (late 80's?) Gourmet's demographics (more affluent than BA's demos) automatically limited the reach of it's circulation and readership (readership = circulation X readers per copy, or 'passalong readers." ) It is a consumer magazine publishing basic that the more stratospheric your demographics, the more limited the readership will be - but ad page rates are based partly on editorial value as well as sheer numbers, which is why Vanity Fair's ad pages are very expensive and larger circulation/less prestigious titles often have lower ad page rates. Bon Appetit was the magazine you read if you wanted very practical advice on how to roast a chicken, host a themed cocktail party, emulate Greek Island cooking and such. Regular columns focused on cooking at home, rather than going out. The Thanksgiving issue always sold out - it was about making it yourself, albeit with an upscale spin. Gourmet was a combination restaurant review/travel/luxury title, which is why Ruth Reichl was hired in the first place - re-energize a stodgy thing with an editor who knows the scene that was Gourmet's dna. What's unfortunately true about Conde Nast is that their formula proscribes duplication instead of innovation, and that inevitably their titles cannibalize one another. In this economy, with smaller luxury ad dollars and so many other Conde titles competing for their share, this was bound to happen.

[Becky Leach]

I'm
so bummed I feel downright cranky! Gourmet wasn't just pictures of food, and recipes: it was poetry and fine prose, beautiful travel essays and culinary history. It was artistic excellence and philosophical depth.

Bon Appetit is just shallow picture
spreads of Beautiful People eating. Food and Wine is too directed
towards the food industry. Saveur is full of itself. Gourmet had both
intellect AND a conscience, and their travel articles were astounding.

[Stephanie S.]

I'm heartbroken. Here's my own post, lamenting the loss:

http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/gourmet-ill-miss-you/