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The Review: With three shiny new stars, RH at the Andaz is a hidden gem

September 2, 2009 |  6:22 pm


Hotel restaurants don't have much of a local audience, with good reason: Not that many are truly compelling. That's by way of explaining why I didn't rush right out to try the new restaurant in the revamped Hyatt (now called the Andaz West Hollywood) on the Sunset Strip. I did take a look at the menu, and passed.

But a couple of months ago, the chef at RH at the Andaz rewrote his menu to reflect his roots in Périgord. And that got my attention because the cooking of southwest France is so underrepresented in L.A.

The hotel at the corner of Sunset Boulevard and Kings Road no longer looks like your garden-variety Hyatt. The lobby has a kind of Goth thing going with steampunk lamps, and the check-in desk is so minimal it looks like somewhere to check your e-mail. Its oh-so-courant look may be enough to satisfy guests on the prowl for the hipster haunt of the moment. But then they had to go and put in a pretty great restaurant to boot. Except nobody seems to know about it, and whenever I ate at RH, even on weekends, only a handful of tables were occupied, most by hotel guests.

For the rest of S. Irene Virbila's review, click here.

Photo: Alex Koester / For The Times