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The Review: Petrossian Paris Boutique and Cafe nets a star and a half

July 15, 2009 | 11:15 am


This week Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila weighs in on Petrossian Paris Boutique and Cafe, which has reopened after undergoing a four-month remodel and now has a cafe that is open for most of the day. Obviously caviar is a staple on the menu (with one variety, Persicus Imperial special reserve from the Caspian Sea, priced at $769 for 30 grams), but it's not necessarily the focus.

The restaurant, writes Virbila, is "going for casual elegance and for the most part pulls it off with a menu of updated French cafe classics from a young French chef." She adds, "Despite the amiable service and haute presentation, the menu falters with some too-sweet dishes and a liberal dose of truffle oil." Still the review is positive for the most part, with compliments paid to the "beautiful soup" and "dreamy" creme brulee.

The conclusion? "Petrossian Cafe is a class act that despite a few missteps fits right into the neighborhood. The menu is flexible and contemporary. And if you focus on the caviar, smoked salmon and such, you'll be fine."

For the full review and a tasty photo gallery, click here.

-- Jessica Gelt

Photo: The croque madame at Petrossian Paris Boutique and Cafe. Credit: Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times