Sam Nazarian’s SBE to manage Gladstone’s of Malibu
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Sam Nazarian’s SBE restaurant/nightlife/hotel conglomerate said it has been tapped to take over longstanding Malibu seafood restaurant Gladstone’s. Well known for its stunning view of the Pacific Ocean and sculptural foil-wrapped leftovers, Gladstone’s hasn’t done as well with its food. From Leslie Brenner’s June 2008 review of the restaurant:
‘The most important reason there are so many leftovers at Gladstone’s is that the food, for the most part, is abominable.’
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‘It’s not easy to find great chowder, nor is Gladstone’s the place to seek it. Is it clam chowder? Fish chowder? Who knows ... The overriding impression is of library paste.’
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‘The iced seafood tower lands on our table ... The shrimp have a terrible off-taste, which makes me nervous that I ate an oyster.’
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‘This is among the worst menus I’ve ever seen. Parmesan halibut. Salmon pesto pasta ... Memo to chef: With few exceptions, fish doesn’t go with cheese.’
Perhaps SBE, which currently owns and operates seven Los Angeles-area restaurants including XIV by Michael Mina, The Bazaar by Jose Andres, The Abbey and four Katsuya locations, will bring the joint up a bit.
--Elina Shatkin