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The California Cook: Frozen souffle

Souffle Think about homemade ice cream, creamy and cold and full of fresh fruit flavor. Think about ice cream so light it seems to float off the spoon. Think about ice cream that comes to the table not in cute little scoops but a good 5 inches deep, so tall it towers above the dish.

You’re not thinking about ice cream at all; you’re thinking about a frozen soufflé.

Now you’re never going to catch me saying anything bad about ice cream, particularly the homemade kind. But ice cream has a certain aesthetic. It’s homespun, like summer evenings on the porch with an old-fashioned wood-slatted churn and a box of rock salt.

A frozen soufflé offers a decidedly different approach, sheer as chiffon and drop-dead elegant.

— Russ Parsons

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