Pioneer Chicken kicks the bucket
This week, Echo Park locals mourn the loss of the original Pioneer Chicken on Echo Park Boulevard, just north of Sunset Boulevard. Blogosphere lamentations over the grease bucket's closure are plenty, from the Eastsider to Eater L.A. I live a wishbone's throw away from what was once Pioneer Market (now a Walgreens that I call "the great beige blight"). Pioneer Chicken, which was open for nearly 40 years, was apparently named after that market.
In the year and a half that I've lived within sight of the corner, I swear I have never seen anybody set foot in the place. However, I have spotted a run-down pickup truck or two in the drive-through. Most of the action surrounding the restaurant took place in the parking lot next to it, where neighborhood kids on skateboards popped ollies and scraped their knees. My Daily Dish gustatory adventures never included a trip through its doors, probably to the benefit of my arteries but also to the detriment of this postmortem.
However, thanks to my copy of Linda Ronstadt's "Simple Dreams" LP (I have a soft spot for Mom-rock), I've spent many a contentedly mournful hour listening to "Carmelita" (which references Pioneer Chicken, heroin, Alvarado Street and Echo Park), staring out my window and pondering the vanishing, endearing vintage Echo Park griminess that the stand represented. It'll probably become a vegan burrito stand or a pet massage clinic or something, but for today, I'll pour out 40 ounces of transfats for you, Pioneer Chicken.
-- Jessica Gelt
Photo courtesy of The Guide








I just found out my local Pioneer chicken closed down 2 days ago, due to an eviction. Off of Sunset and Fountain. I BLAME ALL THE VEGANS MOVING IN!
Posted by: Vic | November 13, 2009 at 04:59 PM
Yeah I remember these and I live in nor-cal, there used to be one by my Grannies house....My Gramps would get Chicken for there as well as my Pops(R.I.P.),in the El debarge video you also see how cheap gas was-0.89cents.....they turned ours into a Pollo Supremo chiken house....it's ok....miss Pioneer though!
Posted by: MiStErRaY | May 22, 2009 at 06:37 AM
I used to live in an apartment back in 1969 in Echo Park. I ate at the pioneer chicken back then. I loved it.
Posted by: rocco | April 05, 2009 at 12:36 PM
Pioneer Chicken is in El DeBarge's Rhythm of the Night video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF02_AwBrPg
Posted by: Ken | March 25, 2009 at 11:41 PM
NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
Posted by: Luis | March 25, 2009 at 12:37 PM
If you ever feel the need to clog your arteries properly, there's a Pioneer near Olympic and Fairfax. The best way to enjoy Pioneer is to gather some friends, a few towels, a couple umbrellas, head to the beach and enjoy all that greasy goodness washed down with an ice cold soda (made with cane sugar, preferably).
Posted by: Sue | March 25, 2009 at 09:48 AM
I didn't even know there was still one around or I would driven out there!!! Transfat counting is for wimps! Give me some big fat pieces of friend chicken!
RIP Pioneer Chicken...you will live on forever in my and my co-workers waistlines, but we don't hate you - we still love you :o)
Posted by: Helena | March 25, 2009 at 09:24 AM
I no longer live in California, but I do remember eating Pioneer chicken as a kid. I have been past this location a a couple of times. Never went in because I knew it would not be the Pioneer Chicken of my childhood. A pretty dark orange crust, huge pieces and enough grease to clog your arteries for a very long time. Oh well so long my friend. I will miss the smell of the chicken,the generic strawberry shortcake, and the orange whip that match the chicken (well kind of)
Posted by: Rissa | March 25, 2009 at 09:16 AM
I grew up in Echo Park, when it was gang infested and littered with graffiti, but it had soul. Now my great Echo Park is a trendy hangout for geek hipster phonies. I knew Echo Park was doomed once an overpriced coffe shop was opened on Echo Park Ave. As Al Pachino says in Carlito Way, "Mi Barrio, ya no existe".
Posted by: Lopez | March 25, 2009 at 09:02 AM
Let's give credit where credit is due: "Carmelita" was written and originally recorded by Warren Zevon. His version is darker than Ronstadt's. The writer who is "strung out on heroin" pawns his Smith Corona--the tool of his trade--and goes to meet his pusher, "who hangs out down on Alvarado Street, by the Pioneer Chicken Stand." Ronstadt changed Smith Corona to "Smith & Wesson," which I could never figure out, unless she thought her fans couldn't figure out what a Smith Corona typewriter was.
Posted by: David DeKok | March 25, 2009 at 08:55 AM
"Carmelita" was originally written and recorded by the late great Warren Zevon.
Posted by: jbunniii | March 25, 2009 at 08:07 AM
What galls me is, no matter where the eatery was, it will be replaced by a franchise...and not always a creative one. Today Pioneer...tomorrow, Jack in the Box?
Posted by: Jeff | March 25, 2009 at 04:37 AM
Uh, what about the Pioneer Chicken joint on Olympic/ San Vicente near Midway Hospital?
Posted by: Dudley Dawson | March 24, 2009 at 09:28 PM
Jessica, I just wanted to let you know I'm a big fan of your Daily Dish posts. Linda Ronstadt and a 40 of transfats -- who could ask for a better eulogy?
Posted by: Anjali | March 24, 2009 at 05:32 PM
Transfats, heroin and fried chicken are all in short supply in Echo Park these days.
Posted by: Food GPS | March 24, 2009 at 04:04 PM