The Review: Talesai in WeHo

Talesai has been serving owner Prakas Yenbamroong’s mother Vilai’s homey Thai cooking in a modest low-slung building at the end of the Sunset Strip for 25 years, drawing music industry insiders, the foodie faithful and anybody looking for a quiet, civilized spot for dinner. The restaurant reopened in November with a new menu that is shorter and more focused. The new owner and chef -- Yenbamroong’s son, Chris -- has also introduced some of the rustic regional dishes he came to love when he was living in Thailand. He’s also putting a new emphasis on the quality of the ingredients. But like his grandmother’s, his cooking is refined and much more subtle than the typical Los Angeles Thai restaurant’s. If you’re looking for nothing more than a mouth-numbing chile burn, this may not be your place.