Charlie Trotter on ‘Ma Gastronomie’
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I wrote a Cookbook Watch this week about the book ‘Ma Gastronomie.’ I had tried to get in touch with chef Charlie Trotter to talk with him about the book because he’s quoted on the back cover and I wanted to hear firsthand why chefs love this book so much and so revere Fernand Point (the chef who is subject of the book). But I didn’t hear from him until yesterday after the section had already gone to print, when he left me a long, articulate voice mail message:
‘Hi, it’s Charlie Trotter calling. I do appreciate you reaching out to me to talk about my most favorite book of all time, ‘Ma Gastronomie.’ It’s a book that has meant so much to me over all these years. I’ve actually purchased probably about 200 copies over the years just to give out to my team members. I remember back in 1983, spring of ‘83, when I was leaving my very first cooking job and the chef de cuisine at the restaurant there -- a gal named Carrie Nahabedian, who runs a lovely restaurant called Naha in Chicago these days -- gave me an original copy of ‘Ma Gastronomie’ -- first time I ever saw it. It was in French. Didn’t know French that well, but I kind of deciphered the book, a few years later got an English copy.
But long story short, Fernand Point, to me the greatest culinarian of the 20th century -- there are other legends like Frédy Girardet and Mr. [Paul] Bocuse and some others, but Fernand Point was the guy who epitomized generosity and generosity of spirit.
I’ve long been a massive proponent and advocate of that book not just because of the recipes -- although those are interesting and great recipes -- but it’s more about the message that’s delivered, and that is if you’re going to be in this line of work, you’re going to give and give deeply and give from the bottom of your heart. So I’m delighted there’s a new edition.’
Trotter, the chef who can sway a nation over matters of foie gras, never attended culinary school and is self-taught. On his website, it says that ‘the figure who most impressed Trotter during his culinary development was Fernand Point.’ Obviously, it has been an impression that serves him well; Trotter’s Chicago restaurant has been open for 21 years.
-- Betty Hallock
