White truffles, a controversy at Craft

White truffles have landed on the menu at Craft in Century City, and people just can't fathom it. White truffles in August? "Preposterous," says one naysayer. "Nothing until October at best."

Better believe it, says Craft chef Matt Accarrino. He says it's the earliest he's gotten them. "They are coming from Tuscany [not Alba], I'm told.... very fragrant." On the menu, there's Fontina and mushroom raviolo with an egg yolk and white truffle; Yukon potato pierogi with white truffle, Gruyere and cabbage; scrambled duck eggs with white truffle brioche buns. "I even made a truffle icing," Accarrino says.

Last year, a more-than-3-pound white truffle (what Brillat-Savarin called "the diamond of the kitchen") was dug up in Tuscany in November, the world's record. Macao casino owner Stanley Ho shelled out $330,000 for it.

By the way, because of repairs being made to its floors, Craft will be closed beginning Saturday, Aug. 30, and will reopen for dinner at 6 p.m. Friday, Sept. 5. Reservation lines will remain open, except for Sunday, Aug. 31, and Monday, Sept. 1, for the Labor Day holiday.

Craft, 10100 Constellation Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 279-4180.

-- Betty Hallock

Photo of white truffles in Italy from the Associated Press