Moments in burgers: Stick to your buns

Step No. 1 on the menu at the Counter (the build-your-own-burger chain's newest location opened in Marina del Rey this month) is to "choose a burger." And one of the options under "choose a burger" is the "burger in a bowl." Nothing about a burger in a bowl seems right.

It's a bed of greens -- "lettuce blend" or "mixed baby greens" -- with your choice of meat patty and toppings, served in a shallow bowl, like a salad. (At least the "protein style" In-N-Out burger -- also no bun -- is wrapped the same way a regular burger in a bun is wrapped, and eaten the same way a burger with a bun is eaten. There's still some burger experience there.)

At the new BLT Burger in Las Vegas, "The Stripper" is a stack of a 7-ounce beef patty with lettuce, onion, bell pepper and avocado. No buns. (Kids, cover your eyes!)

Early on, there were bun complaints at Govind Armstrong's new 8 oz. burger bar on Melrose -- as in a bun too large for the burger; others thought the bun a good juice-sopping size. But no bunless options on the menu.

-- Betty Hallock

Photo of the Counter's "burger in a bowl" by Betty Hallock