Goodbye to an old friend

When I started at the Times Food section, it ran on Thursdays, it was regularly more than 70 pages long, I had a full head of hair, and Donna Deane was the backbone of the Times Test Kitchen. The ensuing 20 years have changed many things, but until recently, not Donna Deane. And now, she’s gone, too — one of the 150 editorial casualties of the last round of budget cutting.

It’s impossible to overstate how much Donna has brought to the section and through how many changes she has kept the kitchen sailing smoothly. Just one measure: She outlasted six different Food editors, including Betsy Balsley, Ruth Reichl, Laurie Ochoa, me, Michalene Busico and Leslie Brenner.

Noelle Carter remains in the kitchen and is extremely capable. As ever, we’ll continue to test, refine, retest and perfect every recipe before it runs in the newspaper. That’s an obligation that too few newspapers (and even cookbooks) honor  these days. But it won’t be the same without Donna Deane.

If you’d like to post your appreciation for the 28 years Donna worked at the Test Kitchen, please post them here. If you’d prefer to keep them private, send them to food@latimes.com.

— Russ Parsons

Comments

[Jan Siechert]

Donna,
I've always enjoyed reading your articles in the LA Times and trying your recipes. You have such a nack for making tastee recipes that don't add up to pounds on my hips.
Hugs!
Jan Siechert
Pasadena

[Russ Parsons]

Just for the record, the Times Test Kitchen is alive and well (though considerably more stressed when we still had Donna!). We test all recipes that run in the section, not just the ones we develop.

[Bart]

While it's always sad to see people lose their jobs, did the LAT really need a test kitchen? I trust the editors of Keller's cookbook more than I trust the LAT versions.

I'd rather see the Great Home Cooks feature come back than more recipes created in-house.

[Cyndy Ufkes]

I, too, had the tremendous pleasure of working with Donna in the Times Test Kitchen. I echo all of the above sentiments. It is hard to imagine the test kitchen without Donna and her amazing ability. It was always a fun place to work, thanks to Donna. She is an amazing and generous teacher and I know the next step will be her best!

[Jenn Garbee]

Donna, I will miss you! I have yet to know anyone else as calm in the face of a storm - so much that I always sensed you were happily humming to yourself while the rest of us were gnawing at our toes. Thank you for the guidance, good humor, and never ending smile. How many times it put a smile on my face.

[Janet McCracken]

I also was fortunate enough to work with Donna Deane at the Times. I started about 10 years ago as an intern fresh out of culinary school. A kinder, gentler, and, most importantly, knowledgeable and creative mentor you could never ask for. She launched me into the world of recipe testing and recipe developing, and is hugely responsible for my career now as an associate food editor at Bon Appetit magazine. Thanks Donna! I'm looking forward to seeing where you land next - whoever gets you is lucky, indeed.

[Cindy Dorn]

I had the profound joy of working with Donna Deane for almost 10 years. Almost every useful thing I know about cooking I learned from her. She is always so generous with her vast knowledge, and she is such a kind friend.
I second all the tributes above and agree with all except I'm having a hard time believing that Russ ever had a full head of hair.
Donna: I can't wait to see what you do next!

[Mary Ellen Rae]

I had the pleasure and good fortune of working with Donna in the Test Kitchen. Russ Parsons was Food Editor when I started as an intern out of culinary school. For three amazing months we worked side by side testing Thomas Keller's recipes for his column, cookbook and other food writer's recipes making sure the home cook could replicate them perfectly. When my time was over I couldn't believe I had to leave, I felt like I had found a home. Several years later the "recipe tester position" opened up and Donna called to see if I was interested. For the next 4 years we had a ball creating recipes and exploring all types of cuisines. Donna, I wish you the best and want you to know that there is life after the Times!!!

[jonathan gold]

It is impossible to overstate Donna's contributions to the Times and to Los Angeles in general over the last 28 years. She saved all of our bacon on too many occasions to count (as well as saving us some actual bacon every so often), and is both a fine technical cook and a profoundly original thinker about food. I'm proud to have been able to work with her.

Perhaps it's time for her to make her fortune with her knack for delicious low-fat baking!