Sliders, of the black cod variety

Sliders -- tiny burgers on tiny buns -- what's not to adore? There are your Krystals and your White Castles -- but a black cod slider on a mini brioche Breadbar bun dotted with sesame seeds and served with house-made ketchup and cornichons (mini pickles!) -- this one really called to me. (Others might not have been so enamored. Can a slider be indifferent?) It's from Breadbar guest chef Noriyuki Sugie, formerly of Tetsuya in Sydney and Asiate in New York. It has great proportions; it's diminutive, but it has stature -- tall with fried black cod, held together with a long, fringe-topped toothpick. That house-made ketchup is nicely tangy, great with the sweet black cod. Sugie's menu is available until May 15, after which he and his slider (and truffle-salted scallops, and crab guacamole with Meyer lemon puree, and medallions of foie gras and ankimo ... ) are gone.

Breadbar, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 277-3770. 

-- Betty Hallock

Photo by Ling Hung