Finding fragrant fruit

As citrus season starts kicking into full swing, check out Japanese groceries for some pretty rare fruit. Yuzu (on the right), which has attracted a cult following among chefs, is showing up and so is an even more obscure example called sudachi (left). Normally available only in bottled liquid or dried peel form, they are most familiar mixed with soy, mirin, rice vinegar and shaved bonito flakes in ponzu sauce. The fresh fruit, of course, offers much more nuance.

The two fruits are similar, though they are different colors (yuzu is green, turning to yellow when ripe; sudachi is green, turning to orange). Both are tiny, typically smaller than a ping-pong ball. Both are extremely tart and very seedy. As a result, both are appreciated more for their peel than for the fruit itself. It’s in the zest that the real complexity of their aromas comes through.

It’s hard to define those unique fragrances. They are similar in many respects -- tart and somewhat lemony, of course. There are also overtones of grapefruit or tangerine and even some floral notes.

Supplies of fresh yuzu and sudachi are very limited, so availability tends to be somewhat erratic. They are also expensive, costing up to $30 per pound, though a little does go a long way.

Fresh yuzu and sudachi are available at Mitsuwa and Marukai markets. Yuzu is also available at Peter Schaner's stand at the Wednesday Santa Monica farmers market.

-- Russ Parsons