Persian mulberries

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Persian mulberry season lasts only a few heavenly weeks, but when it comes it’s easy to find the astonishingly flavored, deep-purple berries: Just follow the crowds at the Wednesday Santa Monica farmers market. Be prepared to scramble to get them, and to shell out as much as $10 for a little plastic box. But it’s worth it. If you do get your hands on them -- and they’ll only be around for another week or so -- you’ll want to eat them as soon as you can. (Not that this should be a problem.) And to take a minimalist’s approach. At Lucques and Campanile, you’ll find the berries accompanied only by a bowlful of cream. Mélisse chef Josiah Citrin says he doesn’t even put them on his menu; when he finds mulberries, he just takes them home and gives them to his kids. If you do manage to get them home without eating them, just tumble the delicate, juicy berries into a bowl and top with a spoonful of crème fraîche whipped cream (crème fraîche lightened up with a little whipped cream). And plan on getting in line again next week.

Persian mulberries, $8 to $10 a box, from Garcia Organic Farm and Weiser Family Farms.

-- Amy Scattergood