IRAQ: A pilgrimage of hope

By Saad Fakhrildeen in Samarra

It was the place where Iraq’s sectarian war began. This week, the city of Samarra and its ruined shrine once again became a place of peaceful pilgrimage for thousands of Shiite Muslims.

A bombing on Feb. 22, 2006, destroyed Al Askari shrine’s famous golden dome and unleashed a cycle of revenge killings between Shiites and Sunnis in which countless numbers perished. Another bombing on June 13, 2007, collapsed the two minarets.

But with security improving, I took my place Monday on one of more than 100 buses carrying worshipers from the southern holy city of Najaf north to Samarra to commemorate the death of the 9th century imam Ali Hadi, who is buried there with his son, Hassan Askari.

Each bus had room for 50 passengers, in addition to those who stood in the aisles for the five-hour journey, so eager were they to participate in the pilgrimage.

"We haven't witnessed such a procession for a long time," civil servant Abdul-Kareem Ali told me along the way. "The former regime banned them, and then they were banned by the terrorists."

Since U.S.-led forces toppled Saddam Hussein’s Sunni-dominated regime in 2003, pilgrimages have resumed in the overwhelmingly Shiite south. But Samarra is a mostly Sunni city, and the way is full of danger for Shiites.

Our route was secured by the Iraqi army, National Police and Sunni tribesmen hired by the U.S. military to help protect major roads. Traffic police on motorcycles led the procession through Baghdad, where roads were sealed off for our protection.

In Balad, 50 miles north of the capital, dozens of people joined the procession on foot, many of them women and children. Others set up tents by the side of the road to offer the pilgrims food and water.

Ten miles farther north, hundreds of cars and buses were crowded at the entrance to Samarra, waiting for permission to enter the city. That's when we noticed the gaping hole in the skyline.

"I cried when we arrived," said bus driver Mohammed Hadrawi. "I was looking for the dome and minarets, but I didn't see them.... We used to see them from a long distance.... Now the city is in ruins."

Our vehicle pulled up in front of the police directorate to be searched, and from there we continued on foot. Policeman Ibrahim Bazi kept an eye on the throngs from behind the wheel of his car.

"We haven't slept for four days because of the preparations for this pilgrimage," he said. The Sunni militant group Al Qaeda in Iraq "banned pilgrims from coming and prevented city residents from receiving them from 2004. Now we are happy, because life is returning to normal. Even we [policemen] ... were banned from entering under the reign of those bad people. We will return, and the golden shrine will shine in the skies of Samarra."

The streets leading to the shrine were lined with concrete barricades. It felt like walking through a maze.

Signs of violence were everywhere, the result of clashes between the security forces and the Sunni gunmen who until recently controlled the city. It looked like a city from a vanished civilization. The streets were filled with bomb craters, shop doors and pavement slabs were broken, and everywhere appeared deserted. Along every wall, graffiti praising Hussein had been crossed out and replaced with slogans in support of the Iraqi army.

Inside Samarra, I met a man who had returned to the city for the first time since fleeing his home after Hussein was toppled in 2003.

"I checked on my house and found that it was locked," said the man, who asked to be identified by a traditional nickname, Abu Mohammed. "The neighbors told me that a Sunni family displaced from Baghdad was living there. It's all right.... It's the end of terror and disunity. The occupant of my house will return home, and I'll go back to my dear city of Samarra. It's just a matter of time."

As we approached the shrine, pilgrims were reciting poems commemorating the imam’s death and beating their chests in mourning.

"The vows of allegiance won’t be broken," they chanted. "Hadi, we haven't forgotten the day when your shrine was demolished."

When we saw the shrine for the first time, we all started weeping and slapping our heads in shock.

"The devastation is more than we had seen in the [TV] footage," said Muneer Ali Fadhl, a photographer from Najaf. "The sun’s rays beamed onto the floor through the broken dome.... It's a disaster."

Reconstruction began at the end of last year, but it will take years to complete. An engineer told us that stone blocs were being manufactured that will be exact replicas of those used to build the shrine. Experts are also studying the Koranic verses on the walls in order to complete the missing parts.

When we left the shrine, city residents opened their doors to receive us and offer us refreshments.

"It's a joyful scene to see the pilgrims coming back to our city," said Hafith Salman, a Samarra resident who makes a living driving a pickup truck. "We depend on religious tourism like the other holy cities. What the criminals did here has turned the city into a miserable one."

The next day, we returned home without incident.

As difficult as it was to see the shrine in this state, those who went found hope and meaning in the experience.

"It's a renewal of the vows of obedience to the imam and also a message that Iraq has become strong and united," said Ali, the civil servant. "No place will shelter terror any more, and most importantly, we have turned our backs on fear. If we had given in to fear, then we would never be able to develop the country"

As for me, I am left with a tremendous sense of accomplishment and hope that things are getting better in my country. It's a feeling I won't easily forget: I now have a picture of myself in front of the shrine as the background on my computer."

Photos: Pilgrims arrive at the ruined shrine in Samarra. Credit: Saad Fakhrildeen / Los Angeles Times

Comments

[Zeena Kareem]

Hello Saad,

Great story as always, Saad. Keep it up man. And God help us, Shiites and Sunnis, to be where we should be. Long live Iraq.

Zeena

[Mujhi]

The real reason for America to invade Iraq is to remove threat for Israel. Everyone know that Iraq under Saddam Hussein is the strong enemy for Israel. Only Saddam has the courage to stand up against Israel.
If the reason to invade Iraq is to liberate Iraqis from tyrann, why don't America invade Arab Saudi as well ? The answer is : Saudi's goverment is allready becoming American's dog than will do what it's master said.
Poor Iraqis, you are all so stupid by accepting America as your liberator. The Yankee will suck all your oil till dry.

[Danny Lelekele]

Thank you Mr Fakh for u're moving story. Pls Iraqies try & understand...its so simple.....why we in other parts of the world enjoy peaceful atmosphere while you are facing hardship. If you stop and think for a moment you will understand. The point is respect the rights of others and don't be greedy.
We christain believe in freedom of consince and respect the fundamental rights and freedom of others.

"Do unto others as you would want others do unto you.
May God bless Iraq.

[Laurie de Nuccio]

Mega dittos to John B. Hanchey's comments!

[Willie]

I'm glad to see rebuilding efforts to restore a shrine that is a key symbol of hope, peace and universal right to religious worship that all men & women should be able to have.

[ahmed]

iraqis now understand that their real enemy in the radical islam and iraq neighbours. They wanted Iraqis to stay under the grip of the Brutal dictator Saddam or the Fascist AlQaida an a like. They wage a a barbaric war against Iraqis who wanted freedom and democracy. Iraqi poeple emerged at the end as winners and the radicals and iraq neighbor failed. Iraqi poeple and the subsequent generations with never forget and honour the secrifices of our only friend (the united states and it's heroic military). Thank you for all who stand tough for iraq freedom.

[John B. Hanchey]

Hey Saad, very touching story. How about a word of thanks for the more than 4000 U.S. servicemen who have died freeing you from Sunni oppression? Not one gracious word for America in your entire article. You can call me a racist and a hater, a biggot ... whatever you like, but in my opinion you and yours are some of the most selfish people in the world. It's all about you isn't it? Your lives are so awful, so painful, we westerners simply can't imagine the horror you have had to endure. Yet when we liberate Iraq from Saddam's nightmare, bad decision or not, you are the last to offer a simple thank you. Your article implies that the Iraqi Army has made the country safe for you aided of course by Sunni thugs on the U.S. payroll. Why don't you grow up?

[DOUG]

In 2nd to last paragraph, is Iraq "untied" or united?

[Douglas]

A wonderful story. All democrats, all over the world, regardless of their religion or political beliefs, will be cheered to see Iraq beginning to turn the corner towards stability and democracy.

I believe Iraq is destined to lead the Muslim world into modernity and democracy, and will someday take its place among the great nations of the earth.

[Administrator]

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[TC]

Mr. Fakhrildeen
Thank you for your story. I have spent the last five years in Iraq and one year in the holy cities of Najaf and Karbala. I love the people of this region and I have many that are still good friends and we stay in communication even though I have returned to the United States. Several of these friends I have helped patriot to the United States because of their support of the Iraqi people and freedom from oppression.
What is disturbing are comments like Shanak above who obviously has a short memory of history. It was not the United States that began the Iran Iraq war with Shiites fighting Sunnis. Nor should the Muslims feel they can dominate the world with their religion if we are to live in harmony. Peace only comes from acceptance of differences without that acceptance comes domination and bloodshed. None of the forces in Iraq be them American, British, Polish wish to interfere with your religions we accept religions of all kinds in our countries and that is why you try to immigrate to our countries. Learn to comfort and accept your neighbors as the non militants of Iraq do and prosperity will follow.

[gman]

You guys are liberal and biased at the LA Times. This is why my patriotic comment is not displayed. Go to hell! This country will be a communist, terrorist hotbed if you guys get your way. Go back to bashing conservatives and Republicans regardless of what's good for the country.

[Juan A Morales]

Mr. Fakhrildeen,
I revel in the success of your country. As Iraq looks to the future I believe you are destined for greatness. Those that believe that the US wants Iraq to fail lack Education. Looking at US History alone will tell you that the US cannot afford to lose our grip on Iraq's success to radical Islamist like Al Qaeda. As a Marine and as a Catholic I proudly stood with many proud Iraqi Muslims who want nothing but defend, protect and push Iraq into the future. Again thank you for your story.

[Ishaque shaikh]

The destruction of Iraq is the enemy of Islam. It is eye opening for the Muslims of the world to unite. The world belongs to Muslim, time has spoken earlier and also will speak in future. The enemy of Islam has shortened their life.

[Landon Valentine]

I am much encouraged to see such an article by a member of the Iraqi press; I only hope the current security situation continues to improve for all Iraqis and their families.

I am hoping and looking forward to the successful resolution of this conflict, in the near future. May God bless us all.

[Shanak]

Dictator Bush tried to destroy iraq, created rift between sunnies and shiites... its US undercover agents who destroyed Minarates in samaara and created hatred among peace loving people of iraq. its the policy of US.. divide and rule. Iraqi people open your eyes your common enemy is americans not sunnis and shiites. forget past and work for peaceful and united iraq.

[Aaron]

A very moving story Mr. Fakhrildeen. Thank you for sharing your experiences. It is good to hear something at least somewhat positive for a change. At least some hope has returned to the region.