IRAQ: A trip to the Baghdad Zoo

Each day, my wife passes the Baghdad Zoo on her way to work. When the weather is nice, crowds of people are there, so a few days ago, she suggested we take our 20-month-old daughter for a visit.

The last time I had visited the zoo was 15 years ago, when my sister, brother and I begged our mother to take us there so we could see a real live lion. When we finally saw the zoo's only lion, we could not believe how skinny it was. We didn't think this was a real lion from Africa. We thought our mother was trying to trick us.

So on a recent afternoon, my wife, our daughter and I went. I was curious to see how it had changed.

The tickets were cheap — about 25 cents per person. Like father, like daughter: my toddler asked first to see the lion.

The zoo was not very crowded, because most Iraqis were out of town for a religious celebration. But as with most places in Baghdad, the zoo was full of police searching people for weapons or bombs. They even searched children and women's handbags.

We wandered around, looking at the bears, birds, antelopes, foxes, cheetahs and other creatures. Because it was late in the afternoon, most of the animals were snoozing.

The enclosures were better than I had expected, and many of the animals had company in their cages. But some, such as a little fox, were alone and looked sad.

After about half an hour of wandering, we still had not seen a lion. We asked a zoo worker where we could find one. "Are you kidding?" he said. "We have 22 lions!" Then he pointed toward the lion enclosure, which is not a cage but a large area surrounded by a moat and two fences.

My little girl was thrilled to see them. The zoo worker told us that U.S. forces, which have worked to rehabilitate the zoo, return every week or so and deliver half a ton of meat for the lions. But he said the lions were always hungry, so the zoo keeps a supply of donkeys on hand to serve as extra meat for the big cats.

We had a great trip. I never imagined we would find a nice place to visit just 15 minutes from my house, and we've decided to go back there every once in a while. Although the zoo is not great compared with zoos in other parts of the world, it is much better than it was on my last visit 15 years ago.

— Saif Rasheed in Baghdad

Photos: Saif Rasheed.

Comments

[JLMEAL]

All wars are bad, but some are necessary. This war was thought to be necessary when the US invaded and regardless of wmd being found (as they were; chemicals, radioactive material, etc for dirty bombs, things that kill people in mass), this war was and is about liberating the Iraqii people from a tyrant. Little did we know that when the tyrant was dead and gone, all of the animals wanted a piece of the action. Al Quida being the biggest animal of all. NOW, we must secure this new gov't and keep it secure or the terrorists will have a base to turn the world to Islam from. That has always been the goal of Islam, kill the infidels.
We, as a free nation, must not surrender in Iraq or we surrender in America and kickt he world below the belt by allowing Iraq to be run by Iran and other Islamic terrorists. This is not some political game to be used by the hype it down and shame on America candidates who are either friends of Islam or total idiots. We need a leader to complete the process with securing a free Iraq, and we need a leader with a game plan on our economy.
We need John McCain. Even if you're one of those peace nics who want to turnt he other cheek or just leave it all undone, surely you can see that, that is an impossible act if we want any sort of real freedom in America. We must have John McCain to lead the way.

[Savvy]

U want to say that after US invasion IRAQ's condition has iproved, means more invasion;more betterment for IRAQ.

[John]

Saif,

I am an american soldier and I was stationed in the green zone in 2006. My fellow soldiers and I used to do foot patrols through Zora Park (Baghdad Zoo). I remember feeling completely out of place every time we would patrol there. I always remember seeing husbands and wives holding hands, and little children laughing and playing on the grassy knolls and bridges that scatter throughout the zoo. I remember bringing extra candy with me to hand out because it was the only place where you could see more children than adults. It was one of the few places everyone could go and enjoy life. In a place that was full of violence and sadness, Zora park was always an island of peace and calm. Thanks for highlighting this in your article.

Captain John Zazenski

[Stan]

I'm glad the Baghdad lions are now being fed meat and not live people like Udday and Saddam reportedly did. America's gift here is descency.

[Jackie]

Thank you, Mr. Rasheed, for the nice story.

Could we possibly allow the gentlemen's words to stand on thier own, as he meant them, without twisting them with our own personal beliefs?

[common sense]

although this story is full of feel good propaganda,i guess its nice for iraqi famalies too visit the zoo after say visiting the food bank(if there is one) or say the cemetary.Then they can go home too there bombed out homes and sleep soundly under the perpetual hum of automatic gunfire.People,im afraid there is alot more important things too discuss then fucking camels and lions in iraq.Your country is involved in an illegal 700 billion dollar a year war for oil and all we can talk about is the fucking zoo.fuck the zoo.70-80 percent of americans are brainwashed idiots living in a no culture society.your tax dollars line the pockets of rich business elites who will step over the same citizens babies to get into their golden limos.wake up and defend the same constitution that your great great grandfathers died for and impeach your neo con fascist president.god help us and those poor iraqi people.glad too live in canada.thank the heavens(figure of speech).

[usvets]

Nice story, thanks.

[Janet]

First of all, thank you for the inspiring story about a country most Americans won't see...also, it is an incredible accomplishment for the Iraqi people to bring the zoo back (if I remember correctly, it re-opened less than a year ago). These people need something that brings them hope.I'm sure that keeping wild animals alive in a war zone is not the easiest job. I'm deployed to Baghdad right now and I see how these people suffer. Americans should be glad that they wake up in a quiet, safe neighborhood and don't worry about where the next car bomb goes off. I thank my lucky stars every day that I too will return to the comforts of home...

[Mohamed]

Just how easily an American mind been bought off...a zoo and how "his" daughter liked to see lions.
Anyway nice to know that not all.

[Rick]

Thank you for some good news from Baghdad. I have great hopes for a unified Iraq and wish the best to the Iraqi people. I hope you and your family enjoy many happy visits to the zoo!

[John]

I am well aware of the sadness and strife that runs rampent throughout Iraq. It is played for us all day long on every media outlet imaginable. Yes it is a change to see something "good" for once come out of Baghdad. The zoo and surrounding park, for those of you who have never set foot in Baghdad, let alone Iraq, is literally an oasis from much of the turmoil. Once we secured it from the insurgent mortar teams, it was not uncommon to see young couples walking together, children playing, and the animals being taken care of. That was 2004, I was on the CA team responsible for the zoo having taken that responsibility from the original Americans that, do I dare say, liberated it in 2003. Whenever we had a mission to the zoo it was a nice change from Haifa st and Sheik Marouf circle and the rest of "little falluja". I hope the park and zoo thrives as I hope the people of Baghdad and Iraq someday find a way to thrive.
Thanks again for the article and photos, by the way your photos remind me of my own, I never did it but I have pictures of my men in the cage with the leopard taking care of it.
Thanks again

[George Paris]

Wow, a zoo, that's great. Those Iraqi's who have lost a loved one, been made homeless, have lost their jobs, have seen rotting corpses on the streets, have been tortured, have no electricity or running water, have had loved ones kidnapped, have had their doors kicked down, have been shot at, etc. should just visit the zoo and it will make everything better.

[mike e]

Thank you for the story, I hope and pray for peace in your country. When is the Dinar going to reval?

[Anon. Patriotic American]

Mr. Rasheed,
I appologize for all my bigoted countrymen who really have no concept of life in your country. I would be very interested to hear views on this war from people in YOUR nation, not just ours.
I think your article was beautiful, well written and gives us a view of your nation we don't get from our media. Keep it up, please!

[Anon Realist]

975 Iraqi civilians were killed in February, up from 767 in January (Iraq Body Count). In perspective, 209 murders were recorded in New Orleans in all of 2007. Iraq remains insanely violent outside the green zone and feel good stories like this only detract from reality. I am happy that US Americans are ecstatic with the progress being made in Iraq. Apparently Iraqi civilians arent getting the message however since 2.5 million civilians remain displaced, too terrified to return to their homes.

On behalf of the Iraqi public I want to take this moment and thank the American people for bringing their war to Iraq! The Iraqi people are happy to die for the American cause.

[Shawna]

I really don't understand how people can post such negative comments about our US troops whose serving Iraq. Do you all not know how much of us has died to help that country! No our soilders does not eat their animals there!! They do get served meals everyday. Many American families are greatly effected by this war, the sacrafice and hardships that our people go through for the Iraqis!! I have many family members serving there, in different locations, and during different operations. There is some positive changes in particular areas, and the same ol' same ol' in other areas of Iraq. Be greatful that you are safely sleeping in your beds at night and not dodging bullets. If you don't have anything nice to say about our troops keep your comments to yourself!!!

[Haider Kareem]

hello i visted the baghdad zoo before one month .i feelt there optimistic about my country because there is wish from all vistors to see all the anomals healthy thats mean we are going to rebuild our country

[1LT J. Fishman]

Hi Saif- Thank you for the outstanding blog post. If you could, perhaps take pictures just from your daily life in Baghdad. This could help show the truth of what is happening on the ground in Iraq today. Perhaps some of the markets, the new businesses opening up, the Iraqi Army doing their jobs. Just so Americans can see that Baghdad is a functioning city once again..

[Ray T]

Simply amazing, a graet story like this and all some people like mark can do is take a chance at a cheap and very uniformed shot at the same us military that keeps them safe and sound from people that would like nothing more then to slit his hippie throat and watch him bleed. nice going mark, maybe you can go pose by some anti-aircraft cannons with the enemy and get your I hate america fix.Keep up the anti-us remarks to look like you fit in with the "hip crowd" and get some more americans killed. Thank you for the story Saif and good luck to your people taht have a future thats many times brighter than it was no matter how painful the change. I am not saying war in your country is good or that we went into your country as Knights on white horses, but your more free than you have been for decades, take it and run with it despite what hippies with hidden agendas say and slef loathing americans try to twist into jagged edges for cutting the guilt they feel for whatever insane reasons. Good job so far and hug your children tight, they have a better day ahead than you have behind, God bless.

[Mark D.]

Wow, 4.5M Iraqi's deposed from their homes. Littered throughout Iraq, Syria and Jordan in camps...Basically a recreation of the disposal of the Palestinians from their homes when the Israeli state was created...Wonder if the Iraqi camps will last for decades like the West Bank?

But hey, the animals have a home...

FYI, "post of hope" commentor...200,000 Iraqi civilians have been killed since the invasion, along with the millions who have fled their home. These numbers reflect the same attrocities attributed to Saddam...Replacing a killer with a killer is not the foundation for Hope.