IRAQ: A trip to the Baghdad Zoo

Each day, my wife passes the Baghdad Zoo on her way to work. When the weather is nice, crowds of people are there, so a few days ago, she suggested we take our 20-month-old daughter for a visit.

The last time I had visited the zoo was 15 years ago, when my sister, brother and I begged our mother to take us there so we could see a real live lion. When we finally saw the zoo's only lion, we could not believe how skinny it was. We didn't think this was a real lion from Africa. We thought our mother was trying to trick us.

So on a recent afternoon, my wife, our daughter and I went. I was curious to see how it had changed.

The tickets were cheap — about 25 cents per person. Like father, like daughter: my toddler asked first to see the lion.

The zoo was not very crowded, because most Iraqis were out of town for a religious celebration. But as with most places in Baghdad, the zoo was full of police searching people for weapons or bombs. They even searched children and women's handbags.

We wandered around, looking at the bears, birds, antelopes, foxes, cheetahs and other creatures. Because it was late in the afternoon, most of the animals were snoozing.

The enclosures were better than I had expected, and many of the animals had company in their cages. But some, such as a little fox, were alone and looked sad.

After about half an hour of wandering, we still had not seen a lion. We asked a zoo worker where we could find one. "Are you kidding?" he said. "We have 22 lions!" Then he pointed toward the lion enclosure, which is not a cage but a large area surrounded by a moat and two fences.

My little girl was thrilled to see them. The zoo worker told us that U.S. forces, which have worked to rehabilitate the zoo, return every week or so and deliver half a ton of meat for the lions. But he said the lions were always hungry, so the zoo keeps a supply of donkeys on hand to serve as extra meat for the big cats.

We had a great trip. I never imagined we would find a nice place to visit just 15 minutes from my house, and we've decided to go back there every once in a while. Although the zoo is not great compared with zoos in other parts of the world, it is much better than it was on my last visit 15 years ago.

— Saif Rasheed in Baghdad

Photos: Saif Rasheed.

Comments

[soldier]

Nice article. This is my second go around in Iraq and the zoo is my area that i foot patrol for 6 hours everyday and night. as well as the markets, bus station, ect. last tour all i did was kick in doors, detain people and get blown up daily. ive been here on this tour for 4 months now and havent seen a lick of any of that i had last tour. there is improvement in iraq, starting at its heart. i recently escorted my commander through the zoo and it was the most at home and peacefull ive felt in a while. if you dont know what youre talking about or havent been here to tell about it, you have no opinion. you want to know what its about?? join the armed forces and give your fellow countrymen a break from multiple tours in iraq. some of us are going on 4 tours. but sorry to use this as a rant. nice article and go to the zoo if you get a chance, its an oasis in the middle of a crap hole.

[Abu Lujain]

Very Nice Story Abu Sara,

I wish we could do this trip together; I have visited this park last November and it is better than before. More Animals, more Artif. lakes, cleaner and more games.

Thanx for this nice story Saif; we need to show the people that Iraq is not a country of killing only.

we will do it together next time my friend

[Steve N]

What is very strange and bizarre are those folks posting here who claim we have to "win" in Iraq. Win? There is nothing to "win". This is an occupation. Not a "war". The American forces are just trying to impose control on Iraq through a puppet "government" on the other side of the globe.

Through a combination of force, and bribery, to competing sides (giving money and guns to Sunnis, Shites and Kurds and others) the US thinks that they can win the PR war and keep us in Iraq for decades to come. They have brainwashed some people into believing that "progress" is happening in Iraq. Just like they did with WMD before this all started. But most people aren't buying it anymore.

And who pays for all of this arming and bribery in Iraq? We average citizens do. While many of us can't afford the basics of life.

The most stupid comments come from those who claim that if we weren't occupying Iraq, that Muslims would then come to the United States and take us over. Does anyone actually believe anything this idiotic? Is there anyone dumb enough to truly believe that if we leave Iraq that Arabs will then conquer America?

Anyone who truly believes this nonsense needs to come see me: I have a great deal on a big bridge for a gullible sucker like you.

[Ali]

hehe, last time I visited this zoo was about 7 years before the war, and it was miserable, all animals looked sad except the lion, and the bear was stuffed into small cage, the monkies were surrounded by dirt and kids threw Orange covers at them, one monkey was standing in the window wondering turning his back to us. but even the lion was used to getting hauled with stones from kids . I'm glad to hear the zoo is not much better after Saddam has gone. hopefully things will be better.

[pres32ley]

All this is great that we get to see some of the animals. however, these animals do not look all that happy. I mean where are the trees, grass, and anything they would have in their natural habitat. they need room to roam and explore. Those cages look way to small.

[Greg]

I also read where the Baghdad Aquarioum is coming on line. So are some of the Museums. In 2004 there was a Sergeant who was working in getting the Arabian Horses back and on display. I do not know what had happened to that program for it was with pure Arabian Horses that were apparently descindent of some famous lines. Perahps that might be worth an article or two?

[Levi]

I love it in America. It's the only place in the world where I've had the opportunity to work from home and from the internet. God Bless You America!!
Levi
levimanners.com

[spoonido]

The war costs Americans $12,000,000,000 per month, but the zoo costs only 25 cents to get in? I'd say the zoo is a better deal.

[Jose]

well, that's de USA way, take lovely care of animals and oil except humans beings. that is plain and pure hipocrasy, yes I believe USA is not interested in IRAQ oil....while pushing hard to get those oil contracts from IRAQ

[Mike]

I lived and worked in Iraq for almost two years. When I was there, violence was a daily occurrence. Security was only a dream. I am glad to see things are beginning to improve.

The entire nation of Iraq has suffered tremendously since our invasion. This includes animals and people. If conditions are starting to improve, that is great! We can't just run out on the Iraqi people. We toppled a tyrant and gave the Iraqis their freedom, but we stirred up a mess there. Now, like it or not we have an obligation to set things right. Hooray for the Baghdad Zoo! If only we could do more to help the Iraqi people.

[James Benoit]

I spent a year in Iraq. 2006-2007, I love the Iraqi People and the culture. I was assigned to several Army Units, I had a unique job. Yes, their was a great deal of carnage. At no time while I was assigned to the Army units did I see an Iraqi national abused. I am witness of the great risk our troops took to protect the Iraqi's. So to the bloggers such as Kit & the Realist I can bet a weeks pay that you have never been to this part of the world. You have no clue what it is about. And know this you could never have sent a blog or email during Saddams rule in Iraq.

This is a story about a family and a Zoo in Iraq.(This is not about carnage and our troops kicking in doors) I loved the report on the Zoo and it kinda brought tears to my eyes. I would go back to Iraq or anywhere in the world where I could help an oppressed people. To my Iraqi brothers from another mother, I say go to the Zoo and have a nice day with your family.

March 9,2008 JB.....

[Wake Up]

I spent 2 1/2 years in Iraq. Most of you have no idea where Iraq is or what the country is like or the people are like, except for what you hear in the news. I made many friends with Iraqi people, even married a beautiful woman I met there. Through my friends and my wife, I have learned a lot about what is going on in that country. You, most of you, have no idea of what you speak about. Just repeat the crap you hear others say. Let me tell you one thing and don't ever forget it. If we do not win the war in Iraq, you better purchase a prayer rug, a copy of the Koran, and learn where Mecca is. The stated goal of the extremists and terrorists is to convert you or kill you. They prove every day that they are willing to die for what they believe in. Are you? If not, they win! It is ugly, horrible, and thousands are suffering to stop this. Wake up and smell the roses. This is not and never was about oil. Iraq produces less oil today than it did in the time of Saddam. Oh, one last thing....We found the killed the worst WMD to come out of Iraq, Saddam. He murdered 10's of thousands and if that is not a WMD, what is? You better pray that whoever is in the White House next understands what I am telling you and stays the course and wins this horrible war. To all you service men and women, and their families....all I can say is Thank You.

[SGT A. Ronquillo]

I spent many nights in that tower behind the camel and watching and patrolling through that zoo. It was and still is a very comforting place for me. Even though it isnt the best zoo in the world or even close it has stedily improved and always provided me with a few minutes of forgetting about being homesick.

[rbdodson]

I am hoping that peace will exist in this country soon.I hoping that the whole world will be peaceful.The Almighty God can do where human failed miserably.Please take a moment to ask God to gives us peace.If all of us will pray I am sure He will speed up the help.Thank you for sharing an uplifting story.

[Geotge T]

Mark D; 3/3/08

Israel was a nation long before you, or I, were even thought of; and Bush is pushing them to give up THEIR land 'for the sake of peace'. Yea, right; Scripture says there can NEVER be peace between Israel and her arch enemies, the Arabs, as a whole!!! Scripture, also, says that any who coerce Israel to give up THEIR land, will face HIS wrath! Like it-or not-WE are in for BIG trouble, folks; and sooner than any of you can know!!! Everything works out in HIS time-not ours!!!

If you even think otherwise; please SHOW ME!!!!

[romom]

I'm glad to see this kind of story... most of the media only wants us to see the bad side of Iraq. And I will concede that there is definitely a bad side to the situation over there. HOWEVER, my sons (yes, plural) have served there with the US military several times each, and I tend to believe their assessment of what's happening there than that of folks who sit behind their computers and gripe about things. And their assessment is.... things are getting better there. There are areas where people can move safely today that haven't been safe in a long time. I do think the Iraqi's need to step up to the plate and figure out how to make theirs an independently functioning country, but until they figure that out..... if you haven't actually had boots in the sand, I really don't put a whole lot of importance on what you have to say about "what is really happening there."

[olmalinda]

Saif! I just loved your article and the pictures. It is very nice and refreshing and made me think of the days my dad took me to our own local zoo. Those were magical moments for me as a child and still linger in my mind.
Its great knowing that animals are being taken care of, despite all the sufferings and violence in that part of the world. May God bless Irak and may peace and prosperity soon return to all of them. Thanks for putting a smile on my face.

[Justin]

For the residents of Iraq that complain about this story and about the occupation. The lesson is, stand up for yourselves, bond together and reject dictatorship. If you had been able to do this 30 years ago, you would not be in this situation. Any country worth a damn will liberate themselves from corruption. Its what the American's did, its what the French did, its what YOU should have done. The people united are always stronger then any government. If you feel you are being mistreated, get your act together, unify your government and make us leave. I dont like seeing my countrymen dying due to your lack of organization.

[Matt Orion]

Whose the llama endorsing mccain in here? John mccain represents the same old and evil thinking that got us into this mess.Your msg is proof you cant talk to conservatives because they refuse to accept that the world wants to improve itself or is in itself "good" they think only the elitist see this and its not true, everyone see's it. Just like everyone saw us invade a country where people still use rickshaw's and old toyota's to get around, instead of protecting civilian lives or museums in iraq we guarded oil refineries and banks and let the bombs fall over Bahgdad, America is deciding whether we want to stay true to our way of life or not, electing a prez whose endorsed and in bed w/bush is not the way forward -Hillary or Obama 08!!!!!!!!!!!!

[JLMEAL]

All wars are bad, but some are necessary. This war was thought to be necessary when the US invaded and regardless of wmd being found (as they were; chemicals, radioactive material, etc for dirty bombs, things that kill people in mass), this war was and is about liberating the Iraqii people from a tyrant. Little did we know that when the tyrant was dead and gone, all of the animals wanted a piece of the action. Al Quida being the biggest animal of all. NOW, we must secure this new gov't and keep it secure or the terrorists will have a base to turn the world to Islam from. That has always been the goal of Islam, kill the infidels.
We, as a free nation, must not surrender in Iraq or we surrender in America and kickt he world below the belt by allowing Iraq to be run by Iran and other Islamic terrorists. This is not some political game to be used by the hype it down and shame on America candidates who are either friends of Islam or total idiots. We need a leader to complete the process with securing a free Iraq, and we need a leader with a game plan on our economy.
We need John McCain. Even if you're one of those peace nics who want to turnt he other cheek or just leave it all undone, surely you can see that, that is an impossible act if we want any sort of real freedom in America. We must have John McCain to lead the way.

[Savvy]

U want to say that after US invasion IRAQ's condition has iproved, means more invasion;more betterment for IRAQ.

[John]

Saif,

I am an american soldier and I was stationed in the green zone in 2006. My fellow soldiers and I used to do foot patrols through Zora Park (Baghdad Zoo). I remember feeling completely out of place every time we would patrol there. I always remember seeing husbands and wives holding hands, and little children laughing and playing on the grassy knolls and bridges that scatter throughout the zoo. I remember bringing extra candy with me to hand out because it was the only place where you could see more children than adults. It was one of the few places everyone could go and enjoy life. In a place that was full of violence and sadness, Zora park was always an island of peace and calm. Thanks for highlighting this in your article.

Captain John Zazenski

[Stan]

I'm glad the Baghdad lions are now being fed meat and not live people like Udday and Saddam reportedly did. America's gift here is descency.

[Jackie]

Thank you, Mr. Rasheed, for the nice story.

Could we possibly allow the gentlemen's words to stand on thier own, as he meant them, without twisting them with our own personal beliefs?

[common sense]

although this story is full of feel good propaganda,i guess its nice for iraqi famalies too visit the zoo after say visiting the food bank(if there is one) or say the cemetary.Then they can go home too there bombed out homes and sleep soundly under the perpetual hum of automatic gunfire.People,im afraid there is alot more important things too discuss then fucking camels and lions in iraq.Your country is involved in an illegal 700 billion dollar a year war for oil and all we can talk about is the fucking zoo.fuck the zoo.70-80 percent of americans are brainwashed idiots living in a no culture society.your tax dollars line the pockets of rich business elites who will step over the same citizens babies to get into their golden limos.wake up and defend the same constitution that your great great grandfathers died for and impeach your neo con fascist president.god help us and those poor iraqi people.glad too live in canada.thank the heavens(figure of speech).

[usvets]

Nice story, thanks.

[Janet]

First of all, thank you for the inspiring story about a country most Americans won't see...also, it is an incredible accomplishment for the Iraqi people to bring the zoo back (if I remember correctly, it re-opened less than a year ago). These people need something that brings them hope.I'm sure that keeping wild animals alive in a war zone is not the easiest job. I'm deployed to Baghdad right now and I see how these people suffer. Americans should be glad that they wake up in a quiet, safe neighborhood and don't worry about where the next car bomb goes off. I thank my lucky stars every day that I too will return to the comforts of home...

[Mohamed]

Just how easily an American mind been bought off...a zoo and how "his" daughter liked to see lions.
Anyway nice to know that not all.

[Rick]

Thank you for some good news from Baghdad. I have great hopes for a unified Iraq and wish the best to the Iraqi people. I hope you and your family enjoy many happy visits to the zoo!

[John]

I am well aware of the sadness and strife that runs rampent throughout Iraq. It is played for us all day long on every media outlet imaginable. Yes it is a change to see something "good" for once come out of Baghdad. The zoo and surrounding park, for those of you who have never set foot in Baghdad, let alone Iraq, is literally an oasis from much of the turmoil. Once we secured it from the insurgent mortar teams, it was not uncommon to see young couples walking together, children playing, and the animals being taken care of. That was 2004, I was on the CA team responsible for the zoo having taken that responsibility from the original Americans that, do I dare say, liberated it in 2003. Whenever we had a mission to the zoo it was a nice change from Haifa st and Sheik Marouf circle and the rest of "little falluja". I hope the park and zoo thrives as I hope the people of Baghdad and Iraq someday find a way to thrive.
Thanks again for the article and photos, by the way your photos remind me of my own, I never did it but I have pictures of my men in the cage with the leopard taking care of it.
Thanks again

[George Paris]

Wow, a zoo, that's great. Those Iraqi's who have lost a loved one, been made homeless, have lost their jobs, have seen rotting corpses on the streets, have been tortured, have no electricity or running water, have had loved ones kidnapped, have had their doors kicked down, have been shot at, etc. should just visit the zoo and it will make everything better.

[mike e]

Thank you for the story, I hope and pray for peace in your country. When is the Dinar going to reval?

[Anon. Patriotic American]

Mr. Rasheed,
I appologize for all my bigoted countrymen who really have no concept of life in your country. I would be very interested to hear views on this war from people in YOUR nation, not just ours.
I think your article was beautiful, well written and gives us a view of your nation we don't get from our media. Keep it up, please!

[Anon Realist]

975 Iraqi civilians were killed in February, up from 767 in January (Iraq Body Count). In perspective, 209 murders were recorded in New Orleans in all of 2007. Iraq remains insanely violent outside the green zone and feel good stories like this only detract from reality. I am happy that US Americans are ecstatic with the progress being made in Iraq. Apparently Iraqi civilians arent getting the message however since 2.5 million civilians remain displaced, too terrified to return to their homes.

On behalf of the Iraqi public I want to take this moment and thank the American people for bringing their war to Iraq! The Iraqi people are happy to die for the American cause.

[Shawna]

I really don't understand how people can post such negative comments about our US troops whose serving Iraq. Do you all not know how much of us has died to help that country! No our soilders does not eat their animals there!! They do get served meals everyday. Many American families are greatly effected by this war, the sacrafice and hardships that our people go through for the Iraqis!! I have many family members serving there, in different locations, and during different operations. There is some positive changes in particular areas, and the same ol' same ol' in other areas of Iraq. Be greatful that you are safely sleeping in your beds at night and not dodging bullets. If you don't have anything nice to say about our troops keep your comments to yourself!!!

[Haider Kareem]

hello i visted the baghdad zoo before one month .i feelt there optimistic about my country because there is wish from all vistors to see all the anomals healthy thats mean we are going to rebuild our country

[1LT J. Fishman]

Hi Saif- Thank you for the outstanding blog post. If you could, perhaps take pictures just from your daily life in Baghdad. This could help show the truth of what is happening on the ground in Iraq today. Perhaps some of the markets, the new businesses opening up, the Iraqi Army doing their jobs. Just so Americans can see that Baghdad is a functioning city once again..

[Ray T]

Simply amazing, a graet story like this and all some people like mark can do is take a chance at a cheap and very uniformed shot at the same us military that keeps them safe and sound from people that would like nothing more then to slit his hippie throat and watch him bleed. nice going mark, maybe you can go pose by some anti-aircraft cannons with the enemy and get your I hate america fix.Keep up the anti-us remarks to look like you fit in with the "hip crowd" and get some more americans killed. Thank you for the story Saif and good luck to your people taht have a future thats many times brighter than it was no matter how painful the change. I am not saying war in your country is good or that we went into your country as Knights on white horses, but your more free than you have been for decades, take it and run with it despite what hippies with hidden agendas say and slef loathing americans try to twist into jagged edges for cutting the guilt they feel for whatever insane reasons. Good job so far and hug your children tight, they have a better day ahead than you have behind, God bless.

[Mark D.]

Wow, 4.5M Iraqi's deposed from their homes. Littered throughout Iraq, Syria and Jordan in camps...Basically a recreation of the disposal of the Palestinians from their homes when the Israeli state was created...Wonder if the Iraqi camps will last for decades like the West Bank?

But hey, the animals have a home...

FYI, "post of hope" commentor...200,000 Iraqi civilians have been killed since the invasion, along with the millions who have fled their home. These numbers reflect the same attrocities attributed to Saddam...Replacing a killer with a killer is not the foundation for Hope.

[Rob]

One measure of a society is how it responds to adversity. Our adversity is the aftermath of an ill-advised, but(now), irreversible decision to disrupt a nation that was already primed for ethnic conflict. The question is not whether we stay or whether we leave, but "how" and "when." The voices of contempt for the rehabilitation of this zoo are as disheartening as those that suggest it stands for "victory." I, for one, appreciate what the army has done for the Bagdad zoo without making political judgments about their overall mission. Thnks

[Javed Akbari]

It is a great zoo as compared to the zoos I have seen Iran and Pakistan. Iranian zoos are really poor. There is no strange and eye-catching thing in it.

[Dragonflower]

It made me happy to see the beautiful animals. In a time when there is so much pain and chaos in that area, the fact that someone has gone to the trouble to try to keep some semblance of "normal" life for the people of the area to remind them of a time that was and can be is incredibile.
It is a shame that some feel that any effort of hope is political, and a agenda is always behind their comments only shows the bitterness some carry with them all the time. My hope is that this bitterness will someday be replaced with hope.

[Will Britt]

~ What an absolutely wonderful story!

[Chris]

I have just returned from a 14 month deployment on the South side of Baghdad and I am very happy and excited to see stories like this and wish there were more stories like this one. Maybe then the average American would see the progress being made over there.

[Tom G.]

It is truly pitiful when memories of what the Iraqi army did to the animals in the Kuwaiti zoo when they invaded Kuwait under Sadam Hussein are forgotten. Now some air head accuses U.S. troops of "killing and devouring" animals in Iraq!. Either this commentator is too young and uninformed to remember, or has never seen, the photos of those sadisticly tortured and maimed animals. Or the commentator has a convenient anti-American memory. Either way our troops care about the people and animals of Iraq a lot more than the Iraqis that blow up their own countrymen. Why would a well supplied military force eat a zoo animal in the first place?Like most who harbor resentment of the United States they trumpet loud accusations against our troops and people without any proof. It is because we are who we are people hate us. Why? Because their minds are too limited to grasp the greatness of this country. If we are so bad, and love putting people and animals behind bars, why are persons fleeing Cuba, Mexico, South and Central America, China and the rest of the better and more enlightened nations of the world willing to risk dying to get here?

[Barry G]

Americans now have 1 of 99 people behind bars. As far as I'm concerned, it's not enough.
At least the lions are alive and well fed.
Lastly, I'm sure that Diane and Kit live in homes that are built on lots that were devoid of any wildlife at the time of construction.

[Andy]

Wow! What hippie-dippy hug-a-tree-you-and-me comments! Kit and Diane need to smoke some more pot and have a good hug and cry together. Don't worry gals, we'll save the world despite your groveling at America and Iraqi success.

[Diane B]

The previous posting regarding the American penchant for putting beings behind bars was unfortunately TOO true.

Keeping animals confined in zoos is unnatural and cruel, no matter how "well kept" the zoo might be (while human animals persistently encroach upon, pollute, destroy and develop) native animal (and human) habitat.

And WAR is the greatest polluter and destroyer of all !!

For many, the horribly tragic fate of that one "skinny" lion symbolized the sad state of the entire Iraqi nation.

And what of the fate of the poor animals in Saddam Hussein's private zoo that were shot and devoured by the American invading force ???

So,the newly imported animals are faring a little better -
It's still a travesty...

As Gandhi said - the way we treat animals reflects the state of our whole society - showing how little progress in evolutionary consciousness we have made so far and how much further along we need to travel towards peace and enlightenment.

[Kit]

No big surprise with these pictures. Americans love putting animals (and people) behind bars. I am sure they supported this project with great energy.

[Jess]

Its nice to read in the media that someone else in the world believes the US troops are doing something good.

[hasan alqassab]

Dear Saif,
lovely article and very emotional,good pictures too, im happy to hear that theres a bright rainbow somewhere in Baghdad.

[Elizabeth]

Just happened on to your posting about your trip to the zoo. It was great to see that their is some "normal" life for the residents of your city. I only wish that at some time in the near future you will all have peace nad normal lives.

[SteveN]

No question this means that all is well in Iraq, there is now peace there, people love being occupied by a foreign power and we made the right decision invading this country.

The fact that there is a functioning zoo is further proof that every dime the US taxpayer has spent in Iraq is well worth it.

Tell me. How many Americans are having to cut back in their spending and saving to support this zoo and in effect keep Iraq on welfare?

[Nabil]

Saif,

I thank you for your refreshing and uplifting article. It was nice enough to pull me in and make me want to know more about this lovely zoo. It also provokes deep thinking and tells me that life is good in Baghdad! The photos were beautiful too. Keep up the great job.

Nabil

[Shirley Meredith]

Really impressed with video of zoo..story was heart warming..thank you..Ihace a son in Baghdad ..trust ther wull be peace there someday..am a lover of lions and all animals!

[Fillup]

Glad to see the animals are being taken care of.

[isabella]

hi
thanks for give us the oportunity see other side to IRAQ ., always hear bad news about this country and i belived very strong this people its nice and i want one day visit iraq out war and problems etnic thanks again .

[rudy socha]

Saif,

Loved your zoo blog and photos on the LA Times site. Please send me an offlist email at rudy@zandavisitor.com