IRAN: No one-way tickets in Tehran

Inflation rather than the American warships moored in the Persian Gulf may be the biggest threat to the Islamic Republic of Iran.

The country's inflation rate itself is a matter of heated dispute between officials and experts. The Central Bank pegged the rate at 16.2% in a report published this year. Reformist critics say it's closer to 25%.

However, consumers have their own assessment of inflation. Stores regularly say they’ve raised prices 30% to 35% over the last year for basic staples such as rice, bread and meat.

Time magazine Middle East correspondent Scott MacLeod wrote about the inflation issue on his blog last week. He quoted from a speech by former nuclear negotiator Hassan Rowhani.

There is no need for the Central Bank to announce the inflation rate. The people know the real rate of inflation better than the Central Bank. The Central Bank calculates with its own particular formula, but people feel it in their very existence.

I think prices have doubled over the last six months. For instance, my favorite fish soup served at a shop near Tehran University has gone from about $2 to $4 per serving.

To hide price increases, shops engage in trickery. Fruit juice stands serve drinks loaded with ice. Restaurants discreetly raise prices on appetizers and side dishes without touching the price of main dishes.

Tehran’s squeaky clean subways have also found a trick to cloak higher prices. Though they announced a fare increase of only 10% and 20%, but then they did away with one-way fares, effectively doubling the price of a ticket for someone who doesn’t want to take the subway back home.

I protested to the ticket office salesman. A man in the blue uniform of the subway attendants approached me.

“You are right, sir, we know, but what can we do?” he said politely. “The managers of the subway system are very tricky people.”

— Ramin Mostaghim in Tehran

Photo: Tehran subway ticket fares have officially gone up 10% to 20%, but some say they have effectively doubled for some. Credit: Ramin Mostaghim